Awk34

Good news: my new master cylinder (Exedy) got here today. I installed it, bled the system, and was able to shift through all the gears. I was even able to shift into reverse without any grinding.

I've had shifting into reverse work a few times, but usually when I try to shift into R with the clutch depressed it just grinds. I had to turn the engine off, shift into R, turn the engine on with the clutch depressed, and slowly let it out. Shifting into the forward gears didn't have any of those issues.

oh they have it, it's this one: https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TZS&Product_Code=21-2122

If I want to just replace/refresh everything in the clutch area, can I just buy everything for the 240Z? I only see a collar for sale on thezstore for a 240z: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22b01h/21-2121

The clutch master installed on the car when I got it was bad. The pile of parts the previous owner gave me had another master in it, but I have no idea if that one was also bad. It was at least better than the first one. I just ordered a new one. The seal kits look about the same price as a new cylinder. @cgsheen1 are you sure? I wouldn't be surprised. I haven't done anything to the clutch since buying this vehicle about a year ago, so it's not unlikely that the PO installed something wrong, b/c there was a lot installed wrong on this engine.. Yes I believe it's a 280Z trans. It's an L28 block and a 5-speed. Did they make 5-speeds for the 240? I recently installed this shifter: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22c01/20-1050

I have a 240z with an engine & 5-speed from a 280z. I've always had trouble shifting into reverse, but now it seems like the clutch won't disengage at all. I've installed a new slave cylinder and bled the line (I think I did all this properly 😅). I've also adjusted the clutch pedal almost all the way out. Attached is a video of the slave cylinder actuating under full petal press. It seems like it's not traveling as far as it should. I took the boot off for visual reference. 125930574_PXL_20210605_1916584222.mp4

Got my exhaust pipe painted and exhaust reinstalled. Wired up my new TinyWB wideband controller to my Speeduino, and it was showing I was actually running pretty lean. I'm assuming I want to be around 13 - 15 AFR. Ignore every gauge other than coolant, AFR, & MAP in TunerStudio. The other ones aren't hooked up. I've also included a couple more photos of my throttle linkage for clarification.

@alex240z Here's a couple pics of the butterflies I just took. It was idling around 1200 - 1400 earlier today.

I got my new battery so the car runs again 🙂. It was idling at around 1200. I'll make sure to get another picture of the butterflies tomorrow. I welded on an O2 bung. Now I'm waiting for paint to dry; then I'll try to wire up the sensor to my ECU.

I improved it, but I have a feeling something with the linkage is still causing it to not close 100%. Tried lots of that, found nothing. Yes, new gaskets in all those places. Yes. I ended up putting a plug with some teflon tape where the PCV valve goes. I've replaced pretty much every rubber thing on there, and have sprayed every spot with carb cleaner while running, and haven't found any leaks. That was one of the issues. I've fixed that. Thanks for the photo. I'll got check mine tomorrow.

I had a mishap with my battery, so have been waiting for a new one to arrive by mail. I've mainly been working on some non-engine stuff with the car. I'll also be picking up some welding gas today. I ordered some O2 sensor bungs on Ebay a few weeks ago, but they still aren't here, so I ordered some other ones on Amazon. I have a TinyWB which I'll use to hook up my Bosch LSU 4.9 to my Speeduino. Hopefully that will help me get some good diagnostics info.

Also to be clear, all this testing I've done is with the fast idle screw completely backed off, and with both carb's idle screws completely backed off. When you say the choke cables should be removed when testing, that is just to be extra sure they're not adding any richness, right?

I guess I bought just in time. It's also out-of-stock on Jegs' website.

I got one of these to get TDC without taking the head off: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WJN4YP

Okay, the issue with the rear butterfly was that the choke cable was mounted a little high. I tried using the lift pin method you mentioned, but each time i tried, the engine lowered in RPM and almost died, which would indicate 'lean', but I cranked the mix screw all the way to 'rich' and it still stumbled and died. 🤔

@AK260 Yes, I turned them up all the way, then backed them off two turns like the tuning guide suggests. Here's some clips of my progress: https://youtu.be/oXMduC3bvT8 In one of the clips you can see me pull up on the rear carb's throttle with quite some force. It causes the RPMs to drop by a few hundred. The main throttle linkage isn't causing it to stay open by a bit. It seems like the butterfly itself has a little bit of room to move back closed. I have a coolant sensor inline with my lower radiator hose. As I just realize, I probably should have put it on the upper radiator hose, as not it's reading coolant temp after it goes through the radiator. Silly me. What would full operating temp be? Around 200°F before the radiator, right? I have an O2 sensor bung and wideband controller on the way. Once I get all that connected I'll have a better idea on AFR. I tried to get my timing close to 10° but I haven't confirmed that the TDC mark on my new pulley is exact, so I'll check that when I can. I don't have a vac advance as I'm using the Kameari distributor which uses a transistor box (or whatever it's called).

I was able to get it running at around 1200 RPM. Some attempts around there just killed the engine. I shouldn't have to use the choke at all to get it started when it's this warm out (60-70℉), right? Or do I still need to choke it to get it up to temp? I also wonder if some combo of my cam & distributor make it not want to idle lower. The engine sounds pretty good now. I have a Kameari distributor and the unknown PO's cam. The trouble with tuning now is that since it still wants to idle so high, my flow meter is always off the charts.

Well here's progress. Something must have been stuck open a bit on the throttle. I reinstalled everything and the throttle is closing a lot more. Now it will idle around 2000RPM. I think I just need to do regular tuning now. PXL_20210410_205834352.mp4

For clarification here's the rear carb: https://youtu.be/-wSprnZJ9I4

Here's both jets with the mixture screws turned all the way up. There's no gasket that fits between the dome top and the carb body, correct?

@AK260 One spring measured at 2.2oz, the other 2.1oz, so probably within margin-of-error. I confirmed that the holes in the pistons (two on each piston) are clear of debris. Apologies if the context for the carb video was unclear. The footage of the carb running was all from the front carb. The footage with the borescope to the butterfly was of the rear carb. By "drop test" if you mean I lifted the piston and heard it slowly creep back down to make a light *thunk* then yes. Attached is a picture of the front carb's butterfly when it's off the car. It seems like it completely closes off. The second is when it's installed. It appears that the flats on the throttle linkage push the butterfly open slightly. Might I need to bend these back a bit? They do look slightly more open than yours. I might be able to cut some flat rubber to fit between both spots where the balance bar meets up with the intake runners. @Patcon I have not taken the butterflies apart. Is there a seal which might need to be replaced?

@AK260 Yes there are springs on the pistons. Even the gap being a little too open like it might be shouldn't cause a 3000 - 4000 RPM idle, right?

@heyitsrama here's a couple more photos

Here's a video to help: It shows the front carb when the engine "idles" at 4000 / 3000 RPM. The piston is definitely shooting up, so there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere between the cylinder and the carb, right? I've attached photos of the front (0007) & rear (0010) butterflies.

Here's some photos. As you can see I don't have any of the vacuum diaphragm / valve stuff on the balance tube, and all the barbs are blocked off with caps.