Bigz Zee

Mine looks like the last pic, with the seal remove.

I saw this image before and looked at my cap. Mine looks like one piece. I thought about poking it with a screwdriver. I need to take another looks at it. I see a little oil around the cap, and was thinking about getting a more pliable seal. The seal on my 240Z is more obvious.

I have a solid list of things to check, thanks everyone, I'll update on my findings. One more bit of info/question. Should there be a gasket on the Oil Fill Cap? My cap does not have one, it's just hard plastic. I saw a comment about the oil cap on the "Car can't go up hill" post

One more question. Is there Water Temperature Switch on this car? Isn't supposed to be on the side? Looks like there are three sensors on the front. See photos

I have a friend with a spare, I'll do a test with that. And I'll work my way through the EFI bible, checking the temp sensor and connection.

I'll track down an ECU. What year ECU? Thanks everyone for the help. Unfortunately the car will be parked for the next two weeks before I get back to it. I'll be sure to update this post as I work through and solve this issue.

Tach seems to operate normally, not jumpy, follows RPM as I coast down in gear. I did the spare spark plug from the coil trick, plenty of spark. One more point, black exhaust. I need to check compression.

New Information We checked the spark plugs, dry but black. Checked the wires through the cap, all good. Checked the timing, check. Then I drove it 25 miles to where I've been storing it. Ran well. Then I stopped, left it running for less than 5 minutes while we were preparing the parking spot, got back in and it stumbled bumbled and died. It did not restart, so we are waiting for it to cool down. It is hotter than usual, normally the temp is to the left of the F°.

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Is this a stock transistor distributor or Pertronix? I'm new to this car and may have provided some incorrect info about the dizzy

The VIN in windshield matches data on the door jam and the data on the plate on the strut. Engine number is not a match. I'd like to find the person who redid this car, so I can get the details on what it is and what was done. Zclocks, what are the pieces that make it look like 77 or 78?

Thanks Dave. I was thinking along the same lines, is it fuel or spark. I like your idea, I'll try it later today.

A very good suggestion. See attached photos. There is crud in the filter and it also appears to be leaking fuel. The previous owner said the person who redid the car coated the inside of the tank, and suspects that coating is a weak point in the fuel system. Maybe replacing the tank is the way to go. What do you think? And how would I know if the crud made its way to the injectors? Thanks

1975 280Z, I bought it two months ago and I just starting to sort it out. The car appears to be fairly stock, in other words, not heavily modified. The previous owner does not have a lot info about the car, it seems he bought the car from someone in Mississippi who did the rebuild and body work. The car starts and runs fine, but it has konked out on me twice. After the car is warmed up, and having driven it for 30 plus minutes, if I drive the car hard, it's starts to stumble, and then it will turn off as I shift gears. When I put it back in gear it runs again. I can keep it going that way for 10 minutes or so before I have to pull over and park it. So I pull over, let it cool down for 15 minutes, then it starts right up and runs fine. The engine temperature is nominal during operation. The points were replaced with electronic ignition. Pertronix ? The coil is an Accel Super Stock. Spark plugs and wires appear new and in good condition. Here is a photo album of the car, with pics of the engine bay and close ups of the distributor and coil. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mPAoGeADxL8qoH3U7