Cooper260z

Ah, okay. My bad. It’s been a while since I watched the video. I’ll look into testing them with fuel then and try that next time I get the chance.

I haven’t gotten out there to check the screen at the banjo bolt yet. @Captain Obvious I set the floats to .55” I think that’s what the Ztherapy video said to do. That’s why I believe they are within spec. Should I try to set them at less then .55” so that they shut off sooner? @siteunseen I thought that the nozzles might be getting stuck but I did give them a little push upwards after having the choke on, to make sure they were set all the way home, so I don’t think they’re stuck.

To set the scene: early ‘74 260z with four screw round tops and a recent l24 swap. ive been chasing little issues trying to get this l24 that I swapped in, to run. i drove the car with these round top SUs on the l26 with the current float level and mixture adjustment. Since putting the l24 in and trying to start it, fuel has started to pour out of the front of both carburetors after I stop cranking. I previously adjusted the float level and recently checked the float level, they are within spec. I ran and drove with the carbs set up this way and didn’t notice fuel leaking from the carbs before, and I’m guessing that it would’ve started a fire if it had been leaking previously, because the fuel does land on the exhaust. I looked at the floats action in pressing the shut off valve and they appeared to press the little button in, I’ve heard that that could be a problem. If it makes a difference, I put the mechanical fuel pump from the l26 onto the l24. Ive gotten the engine to start running in this configuration but it quickly gets flooded and won’t start again. Im just trying to see if there’s anything I can try before just having the carbs rebuilt. So if anyone has tips as to how to fix the fuel leak, please let me know!

To close out this thread, it was just that, the distributor shaft isn’t oriented correctly. I moved the distributor passed the plates restrictions to get it started. @w3wilkes thank you for sharing that. I may message them, because like a lot of people I’m sure, I don’t really want to drop the oil pump.

i was worried that dropping the oil pump would be the way to do that. Theoretically though, if the shaft is indexed a little off, if I just take the bolt out that limits the distributors adjustment, that should compensate and allow the timing to be “correct” enough for it to run, right? that’s what @cgsheen1 suggested if I’m understanding correctly. And then you just rig the distributor mounting to stay in that position and I never have to drop the oil pump... But I’d never do that...

Are you describing the bolt that you loosen to adjust timing, or is there a nut on the distributor that you use to adjust the distributor itself? I’m not with the car at the moment, so I’m trying to build my list of what to check

I’d believe it if the distributor shaft wasn’t in the right place, it feels like a timing issue. I hadn’t tried moving the distributor passed it’s normal adjustment range, I’ll give that a shot next time I’m able... if I didn’t kill the starter trying get it started that is. How do you adjust the distributor shaft? Is it as easy as grabbing and twisting something?

The rotor doesn’t seem to point directly at #1 when at tdc, it’s just a little past it (or before it) Im gonna try messing with the car a bit more. Maybe I’ll figure something out

My finger is on the #1 plug wire, going counter clockwise followed by numbers 5 3 6 2 4. I considered that being the issue but I don’t think I’ve moved the wires since they ran in that configuration on the original engine. If it’s wrong, please let me know though.

I put an l24 into my 260z to use temporarily and so far I haven’t been able to get it started. I don’t know the history on this engine, I got it for free and was told it ran, I didn’t want to ask too many questions incase he decided it wasn’t going to be free anymore. Aside from the long block and fuel pump, everything on the engine is what came off of the original engine which I did drive the car with. since the engine has compression (albeit not great compression) and has the ignition and carbs (round tops) that I used previously, I don’t know why it wont start. Sometimes when cranking it’ll fire and sound like it’s going to start, but doesn’t. I’ve already tested for spark, sprayed starting fluid in the carbs and filled the bowls with gas. The only thing that I can think of it being is timing related, so I’ll include pictures of where everything lines up when at what I think should be TDC. Maybe someone will spot something out of place.

Thanks everyone, I got the automatic adapter off and can now proceed!

i don’t know for sure but I think the l24 might’ve come from an automatic car. There’s a hardline running along the drivers side of the engine that isn’t actually running to or from the engine. Looks like it could be a transmission cooler line for an automatic. Not sure if Zs had transmission coolers or not. Ill see if that piece on the end of the crankshaft will come off, tomorrow.

@heyitsrama if you notice that sort of ridge on the end of the crankshaft, that is not present on my l26. I’m not sure if that’s something that comes off, or if it’s normal for an l24. I’m still learning about datsuns

I tried to install a pilot bushing into an l24, but the bushing was too big to fit. From what I’ve found, the l26 and l24 use the same pilot bushing, but the bushing that came with my clutch kit doesn’t fit my l24, but does appear to fit my l26 (the l26 still has the pilot bushing in it, but the new one appears to be the same size.) If someone can tell me what’s wrong with this picture, I’d very much appreciate that! I’d like to drive my Z again! I measured the pilot bushing and the end of the l24 crankshaft Incase it helps. Crankshaft id .783 inches Bushing od .813 inches Im pretty confident that there isn’t already a bushing in the end of the crank shaft, at least not one that looks like the bronze/brass replacement that I have. I’ll add a couple photos incase that helps also, maybe there is a bushing in there and I’m stupid.

@Trnelson I don’t have any pictures or specs to help you out too much, but I found a threaded plug that was already at my house that fit. But there is still an open port on one of the manifolds because I ran out of plugs, but I’m pretty sure that the water passage is separate from the air passage so leaving the ports open doesn’t effect how the car runs

@Frankenstein Yes this fixed my problem. With the booster off the car I was able to shake and look in it and eventually find the disc, then I used a long sewing needle to stick it and carefully extract it. Then super glued it back on to the push rod

Took the booster off, thankfully it was much easier then what I’m used to with bmw 2002 boosters. Got the disc out, super glued it back on, put it back together and the brake pedal no longer goes to the floor! I’ll have to do some road testing and see if the push rod needs to be adjusted, but now I can comfortably start shaking the car down! Thanks for the help everyone, and I’ll keep faulty hydraulic parts in mind also.

Thanks @Patcon a pick did the trick! Now I’ll see if I can fish the disc out without removing the booster

so if I get the right grip and leverage on the pushrod, I should be able to just pull it out? It hasn’t come out so far from my pulling, and I obviously don’t want to damage the metal ring or rubber seal. If that’s the deal though then I’ll do my best to get it out. I do have an FSM, and it doesn’t mention pulling the pushrod out by this method, that I’ve seen

so if I take the master cylinder off, this is the view of the booster (first picture.) is there a way to get further into the booster while it’s on the car, to see if that disc has fallen off? Also, I don’t know if it’s worth noting, but if I pull the rod out I can feel it slide out of whatever is inside there to guide it, and after that it just kinda flops around (second picture) i don’t know if that’s normal

i have bled the master cylinder. I’ve put a total of maybe 50 miles on the car but I have not noticed any loss of brake fluid. I’ll have someone step on the pedal while I watch the fluid like that article says

When the car is not running, stepping on the pedal provides the normal feeling of stepping on the brake pedal when a car is off, it’s harder to press and stops at some point. The pedal does slowly sink to the floor in this scenario. Though with the car off if I press the pedal as hard as I can, it gets stuck for like half a second before coming back up and a bit of a clunk can be heard. the booster is stock I believe and pumping the brakes with the car running provides no additional effects. Im interested in looking into the piece that Falles off of the push rod since that’s common, I’ll look up how to do that later on when I have time. Im not ruling out a bad MC, I’m just trying out the things that I can before going that route

@Patcon nope. If you press the brake pedal when the car isn’t running it feels like a normal pedal, but when it’s running it just goes to the floor and doesn’t change.

Yes. No. No. Short answer, I can rule those things out. Didn’t know that about the brake light showing a pressure imbalance, that’s good to know

if memory serves though, the rod won’t just come straight out of the booster, so I assume there’s some step that I’m missing to get it out. I’ll get out there soon but if you know what step I’m missing to get the rod out that would be great info.