Cooper260z

So on the carburetor that’s missing the linkage, if I pull the choke lever up (as if it were on) that nozzle as @Patcon called it, goes down and out. On the carburetor that has the linkage, the nozzle doesn’t move

Oddly enough though, the carb that has the functioning fuel nozzle is the one that’s missing the linkage. So in theory I could use the carbs but wouldn’t have any choke capabilities?

On the contrary @7tooZ they are four screw and the one on the right is missing the piece. Thank you for confirming that I am missing that piece Is that piece available? The real bummer is that I had another set of carbs but sold them thinking I didn’t need the extras. And there’s still question of the moving thing on the bottom. Are they both supposed to move? And if so how can I get the out her one to move?

I bought this pair of SUs for my 260z and I think I’ve finally gotten to the actual step of putting them on the car but I’m noticing a couple inconsistencies with the two. One carb doesn’t have a piece of linkage that the other carb does, and one carb moves the Cylindrical thing at the bottom of the carb (that I assume is fuel related) and the other doesn’t. There could be nothing wrong and they’re both acting as they should as far as I know, this is my first time with the SUs so if someone can tell me what is or isn’t wrong here that would be appreciated. The picture highlights the present and missing linkage, and the thing at the bottom that moves only on one carb

It’s like #1 I think. I was too motivated to wait any longer after lunch so I went ahead and cut it. It didn’t take much

Seems like it hasn’t been that long but I swear I’ve made progress since the last post. My l24 heat shield is running into the crankcase vent, preventing it from lining up with the mounting holes. Is there a popular solution other then cutting the shield? Because that’s what I’m seeing as an obvious “fix” I don’t have a problem with cutting it but if I don’t have to then then it would be nice to keep it whole

Okay, I thought the only different linkage was the one in between the carbs. And yes that makes perfect sense in regards to the AB valve, thank you. I’ll get back after it then and see what stumps me next!

Also, is the linkage for the 240z different then the 260z? I don’t have a good photo to show what I’m talking about at the moment, but on the balance there are two ears that a piece of linkage goes through, and on my l24 balance tube those two ears are much closer together so I’m not sure if my linkage will work with it

Will the valve work if there’s just a filter on it? I thought that it would need vacuum or something?

Should I be keeping the anti backfire valve? I’m guessing it was on the 240z and they kept onto the 260z then maybe it served a good purpose. My problem though is the after market air filters I bought didn’t come with one of those plastic elbow ports that they usually come with so I’m not sure how to hook it up. I plan on getting a 240 air filter housing but for the time being, can I remove the anti backfire valve or should it be kept at all costs? Also as things are being learned, it’s starting to make more sense to change to the 240 balance tube also, for simplicity sake

And I’m trying to desnake it a bit! I was about to go to the hardware store to get the plugs that were previously mentioned but then my dad said “or we could just weld it.” And that sounded cheaper and fun so I did that. And if I somehow messed it up, I have two others. seems solid, now I’m working on the other things that come off and need to be plugged

Awesome! Thanks for the help! I’ll get some of those pipe plugs pretty soon and get on that! And I will change the old heater hoses soon too. The car is not being driven yet so I have some time before those are a necessity, but they’re next on the list for sure.

Since the water line into the balance tube is egr related and just about none of the other egr stuff is going to be working, I should be fine to block off that water I presume?

But the hose clamps are still inside the cabin if I remember correctly. I had the dash out once and I replaced the very small hose that I think goes to the valve, but didn’t replace others. I’m still learning about this car, I’ll probably have to take the dash out for something els again sometime. Is the hose clamp for that heater hose in question accessible with the dash in? I imagine some things would have to come out first at least

@Zed Head ah okay, I see what you mean. Yes that would also make sense. Some might even say that it makes more sense. But then I’d have to change the hose under the dash unless I used one of those coupler things that you use to join two rubber hoses.

@AK260 I like that idea for the plug, I’ll pick some of those up and do that for sure. @siteunseen thank for trying to clear things up! That’s exactly what I’m hear to do! Coming out of the water line at the back of the head, it has a port that goes off and into the balance tube seemingly, as well as there’s another hardline that comes out of the balance tube, right behind the intake water line and then goes to the thermostat.

thanks again! @dutchzcarguy I thought the same thing! That’s how I got the car, they’re are so many I thought that they might've been Original. I change them out every time I take one off

Okay then, I’ll plus the kind on the side of the engine, plug the lines in the intake and thermostat and that’s it? Sounds like an okay plan? Is it okay to no longer hav water through the balance tube? I assume it is, I talked to someone before about getting rid of that “y” piece, but just to make sure

@siteunseen Are you saying to plug the line on the spark plug side of the engine (Pictured?) I was thinking to plug it just behind the intake manifold. but on the other side would be a bit cleaner I suppose. Doing that would also stop the water from flowing through the balance tube, which I don’t believe is an issue since earlier cars didn’t have it that way, but I could be wrong.

Okay, so the theory is that because of the inline thermostat, once the engine is warm water doesn’t flow through the intake line anymore, it only flows through when the engine Is cold. So by deleting that line it will only have an effect on the engine while it’s cold and once it’s warm there’s no difference. Basically?

@AK260 nice setup! AN lines will hopefully be in my future! @Zed Head if I’m understanding you correctly, you’re saying I should a keep a line there to retain the flow of water? Which is my thought on the matter, that more water moving is kinda better for cooling purposes? Which is why I want to keep a line there, just add like a rubber hose to effectively replace the hardline between the manifolds that is rusting and leaking. Though I guess completely deleting the that water passage is an option as per what @zKars And @AK260 said which is interesting as seemingly that line isn’t crucial to the circulation of the coolant. And as another note, I’m in California’s SF Bay Area so i don’t think I could drive in frigid temperatures unless I REALLY tried hard to get to them, so I don’t think the temperature of the carburetors will be an issue

I don’t think it’s relevant to this question but just Incase, I’m currently switching from flat tops to round tops on my 260z. I've done some reading on the matter but reading too much I find that I kinda get too much information and start to second guess what previously seemed like good information. So, common issue I hear, leaking coolant tube between the intake manifolds. A seemingly good idea I’ve read is to just bypass the intakes by putting a hose straight from the thermostat to the hardline at the rear of the engine. Can anyone tell me if this is a terribly bad idea? I have a basic understanding of why the water is run through the intakes i think, to my understanding there might be a slight difference when the engine is cold... Not to beat a dead horse of a question, apologies.

I’ve finally started the process of taking things off to put the round tops on, and I have another question that I don’t THINK I’ve asked yet. What should I do with this diaphragm? Not exactly sure what it does but from what I can tell, earlier 240Zs at least don’t seem to have them so I’m guessing it isn’t necessary and I’m not sure if the aftermarket air filters I bought (but haven’t received yet) will allow for it to plug in. So really the question is do I add that port in the balance tube to the list of things to plug? And also what does that diaphragm do, just so I have that knowledge. Also what is that vacuum hose for and can I plug that? Because I’m not sure if the new air filters will have a port for that either

The thought had crossed my mind. Might do

@Zup I do have the other thermostat housing and early water line. The water pipe you see in the bottom picture is just an extra one that’s sitting on the engine. The guy I got the engine from just threw that in there and I don’t usually say no to free parts. That whole l24 was free. So then to change the balance tube I’d just have to figure out how to block the hole in the exhaust manifold I think. Also I’m planning on to use the heat shield from the l24 because it has the hooks for the rerun springs for the round tops which I think my current heat shield lacks