kelley0352@att.net

Still have not found a response box. Still having the same problem with the white Z with zero miles on it that ran for 3-4 minutes then died never to restart. Pulled all the plugs, (they were carboned up also) buffed them off because they are new also, shot gas into the cylinder & cranked it over, got nothing. I shot either into my white Z & still got nothing, has 12v @ injector plug. it is 101 degrees here now so I think i am done for the day.

Under what ? I don't see a paperclip anywhere. I pulled all the plugs out of my white Z , cleaned them, primed the cylinder, replaced them & still won't start but it does kick a little like it is trying to start

Well Ed I got the red one running by pulling the plugs & priming each cylinder, once it fired up I blew it out on the freeway. (carboned up from cranking it) I have never seen 6 plugs/cylinders) go bad all at once. I will try the same thing on my white Z. Thank you for staying with me on this. It filled me with anxiety & I bothered 3 of the best mechanics in central calif. over this. If You have a regular email I'll send you some pictures, my Z's ar really clean & I drive them up bumpy dirt roads in the sierras all the time. I am @kelley0352@att.net

I know how to take a picture of it (it seems to be carboned up) but I don't know how to post the picture from my PC to the Classic forum...

no there is something else wrong. this is a brand new engine

NO! Not even a sputter or a cough. I have never seen an engine that would not fire with spark & fuel, so what is it? I know it is not the ECU

I primed it with Gasoline & it did not even sputter but there is Great Spark @ the coil & at the plugs!

Another problem is the Red Z that I put the tester to & it killed the injectors. I swapped out the ecu because I thought it had damaged it somehow & reinstalled another ecu. shouldn't that fix the problem? or did that action short out something else somewhere else ? . OK OK OK!!! I primed it with Gasoline & it did not even sputter but there is Great Spark @ the coil & at the plugs!

Zed Head are you still there? OK Anyone got some advice 4 me? I was working on my red 280 Z {1978 5} speed when I touched a test light to the neg side of my coil, it knocked out my injector power so I guessed that the problem was in the ECU so I swapped it out. Will that fix the problem or did something else short out ?

Ohms, sorry. This car was running with a brand new engine, (both cars are new engines) 3-4 weeks ago. I put my red one on blocks & rebuilt the entire car in 18 months. Struts, brakes, motor, mounts, Cat, 3 row radiator, & installed Michelin Radials. Then I parked my running white Z and pulled the running motor out & had it rebuilt. Had it fired up & running 3 - 4 weeks ago. It started to bog down & died, never to restart to date.

it is a tree trunk at 7000 ft elevation above Huntington Lake in the central sierra Nevada Mountains

OK Gang; I have power (with key on to the #1 pin of my ECU. I have a new engine with zero miles on it. It ran for about 4 minutes & then died, never to restart. I have fuel, spark, and have swapped out the Transistor box,coil,ECU,thermo time switch,pickup eye (in distributor), and checked the continuity of the negative side of the coil to the ECU. This shows a 5.9 voltage & the rest of the active terminals show a 3.89 Voltage.There is juice at both sides of the injectors. I still have no NOID light blinking, so now what???

I have several

thank you for the explanation of a thread, (Topic) now should I start a new one ? that means that I have to re-explain all of this stuff onto the new "Thread" ?

Yes I did do that with the ECU & you are correct, I don't know what Thread means, although I have asked & gotten no reply.

Virto's thread, not mine, I just found this site & just joined it to figure out this problem. I have been wrenching since I was 10 I am starting to think that the ECU is intermittently bad, (goes in & out of operation)

This thread did not start aug 2014. It started June 2020. & I have pumped some into a can & looked at it. Both fuel filters are new.The fuel is good. The parallel circuits makes sense, I hadn't thought of that

This is my red Z & No I did Not try to start it with the light still connected. I just went back out to my white Z that had the original problem & I have 12v on one side of the injector plug & not on the other side. I jumped the ground to the #'s 14,15,30-33 and it clicked once & quit. I connected the noid to #6 cyl and got a single blink when grounded the first time I grounded it and nothing afterwards.

it lighted up but did not pulsate or flash.

The key was on & engine not running..........& yes I had juice there on the neg side of the coil. I also tested all the coils with an ohm meter & got 1.8 to 2.7 readings

I have been going through the process of elimination for 3 weeks now. I went over to my running Z car, (that I have 3) and touched the 12v test light to the neg side of the coil & now it will not start either because of no noid light, (signal to the injectors) and I do not know why this would happen from a no voltage test light! Frustrating!

I pulled the ECU out of a running 1978 Datsun 280 Z and put the other one back into another running 280Z and it is working just fine in that car. I have my list of all the pins from 1 to 35 so I know what every pin goes to. This is why it is so frustrating; I have replaced anything on the car that could cause the failure , from the ECU to the Thermo time switch and have not resolved the problem. I have traded out the transistor ignition box (that I can rebuild) and the throttle positioning switch. The only thing I have not replaced is the air flow box.