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Yeah looks like we screwed up with the pass-through capacitor and thought the box was grounded. It did seem strange for it to be like that when we were building them. Our circuit has reverse polarity protection luckily, but we will send around an addendum. Good pickup on that thanks.

Yeah the red wire going to the stud is an earth, just like the green and red on the main harness outside the box. The black wire inside the box is positive and yellow and white are the 'signal' wires. Gav your units that are now in the post come with wiring guides and pin-outs that explain what everything does to wire our one up to the stock plug.

I think you have misunderstood what Gav was talking about. He wants a solution with an OEM plug so he can plug it on any clock, with the old or new oscillator. As you've stated you've used a tail light plug and mine comes with a plug or I have a link to source them for US based people as they are $3USD. Our circuit board comes with a wiring tail so you mount it inside the original box or one of your choosing and just put the plug on it that fits the original clock's loom or put it inside the clock if that is what you want. I figured most people would have the factory clock loom still and wouldn't want to open up their clocks.

Sorry i didnt see this message but looks like you've sorted it out yourselves anyway! Happy to sell you one if you are still keen though For anyone else looking at the thread my version of the circuit fits inside the clock and has reverse polarity protection too. Mine had some early stalling problems but by tweaking the output we managed to pretty much cure it. With the self rectifying nature of the signal we felt the pot wasn't necessary either with the Quartz driven signal. My friend Wayne was the electronics guy so i don't know enough to provide a better explanation than that.

Unfortunately I only have one, so that is the only one that has been tested on. But due to the design these are largely self rectifying and it should be fine. You can see we leave the programming pins on the board so if you need it adjusted we can tweak it or you can if you have a programmer but we dont feel it will be needed. Jaycar boxes are just generic box mounts: http://www.jaycar.co...tal-Boxes/c/231 I'm sure you could pick something up in the US and avoid the postage on it.

They said it couldn't be done! Here is the long awaited modern replacement to the oscillator box for the 240Z rally clock. The clock has exactly the same movement as the stock setup. This circuit completely replaces your old oscillator box and is driven by a super accurate microprocessor, instead of a tuning fork. We have a full working example after reverse engineering my own rally clock. It now keeps time more precisely than the factory unit and will be very reliable, with no moving components. We have also located a plug that will be compatible with the OEM harness for people wanting a plug in solution. You can see from the pictures that you can actually mount this PCB inside the clock it is so small. If you are interested, we are happy to supply just the circuit or an installed board depending on what you want. If you want a metal box from jaycar we can do that, or post us your original oscillator box and we can convert it. Let me know what you want! First run will be 11 units so get in quick (8 already sold)! PCB cost is $99AUD each and $6.50AUD for an OEM connector to plug into the factory harness (supplying at cost). This is 1/4 of the price of the actual oscillator box which may not work! AUD

Well, I can send you just that purple PCB and a link for the connector which is probably the most cost effective way since you are in the US. You can put it in your own box or stick it in the clock as i did. You just need to solder a few wires, its very easy and comes with instructions. If that is a bit tough, we can send it to you in a box with a connector ready to go for a bit more money if that's what you would prefer.

Epic thread dig i know... BUT i read this thread recently and then went about actually getting it done! Here is the long awaited modern replacement to the oscillator box for the 240Z rally clock. The clock has exactly the same movement as the stock setup. This circuit completely replaces your old oscillator box and is driven by a super accurate microprocessor, instead of a tuning fork. We have a full working example after reverse engineering my own rally clock. It now keeps time more precisely than the factory unit and will be very reliable, with no moving components. We have also located a plug that will be compatible with the OEM harness for people wanting a plug in solution. You can see from the pictures that you can actually mount this PCB inside the clock it is so small. If you are interested, we are happy to supply just the circuit or an installed board depending on what you want. If you want a metal box from jaycar we can do that, or post us your original oscillator box and we can convert it. Let me know what you want! First run will be about 10 units so get in quick! PCB cost is $99AUD each which is 1/4 of the price of the actual oscillator box which may not work! https://youtu.be/FXkWDCBmsII https://youtu.be/hwJEogI84pw

The film barrel is a great idea I think I'll give that a go! I have a friend with a pair of original plastic bits for the top is there anyway to get these replicated?

Hey guys I bought some fender mirrors a while back and they were missing the black plastic parts that go between the mirror stalk and the top of the fender. Also the black plastic cylinders that cover the springs under the guards were missing too. Any ideas in where i might be able to get th see parts.

well they can be as long as you want them .... and the standard airbox fits them and its skinny. You could also space it out and make it wider but hey ... why not just go buy trumpets and rally socks....

The filter element is shagged but the design is good it should flow a lot of air with a good element in it compared to the standard air box make sure it has ram tubes on the inside though

Well that is probably who is going to buy it, its worth more than your average 280Z because of what it is .... and no its not like limited ed. on a chevy or what ever cause there actually were a limited amount made. If you don't like black on a zed then i wouldn't buy a black pearl.... that would be like buying the BRE 240Z car and respraying it ???? well not quite that bad

Also you could probably find out the VIN#s of the BPE .... ZHome would probably have something like that ... paint code stickers can be bought new .. so if you were going to buy it you would probably want to check some other way first aswell

I don't think not having the paper work really devalues the car that much at all if you dont have it ... as long as you can prove it was a BPE... its more like something that will add a bit more to it Not trying to hijack your thread but i have the same question about my zed too... I have a '78 260Z 2+2 (i live in australia) with the following modifications: Electronic ignition 4 Piston Caliper upgrade on the front Retrimmed interior in cream appart from front seats (fair condition) Remoulded dash complete with perfect gauges (even the clock works) FJ20DET Turbo 5 speed gearbox 4.1 Open R200 Air Conditioning (needs gassing) 16" x 7 Rays Engineering Copy mags with 205/45 tyres 30mm Billet Aloy wheel spacers that give you the offset of an S-13 Silvia J-Spec Nismo Headers Exceedy Heavy Duty Clutch Daiken Organic Centre 5kg lighter flywheel 2.25" Exhaust All new seals in engine 240Z Hitachi SU's with 240Z manifolds with non emissions type Cam gear on #3 dowel :rambo: Central Locking Good paint What do you think its worth ?

Short ones will also have better throttle response.....

Excuse the Engrish from babbel fish translator .. but you can get the general gist of the thing .. : this is for the blue car btw .... Fair ready Z HLS30 left handle 5 speed MT Year type unclear (early type) travelling obscurity (after the engine completing approximately 10000km) Vehicle inspection H16 year May (fully it is) Engine L28 reforming 2.7 Carburetor Weber 45 phi reforming Turbine TD07 25g Intercooler HKS Z31 (VG30) business Surge tank HKS Waist gate trust Fuel pump FJ + TOMEI 5 fast direct connection full cross for transmission R32typeM Clutch strengthening clutch (manufacturer obscurity) The differential Lu NISSAN R200 (LSD equipped manufacturer obscurity perhaps the NISMO) Front brake Z32 rotor & caliper - Rear brake S13 rotor + DR30 caliper - Plug cord 11mm Bu Ritz SBC Bu Ritz turbo timer Omori tachometer Knight sport boost gage Trust meter oil temperature * hydraulic * water temperature * exhaust gas temperature Bonnet * F fender * R gate FRP make Body all paint KYB shock Tire & wheel size F: 8.5j-16 OFF? 205/55r16 R: 9.5j-16 OFF? 225/50R16

I have heaps of pics of zeds in japan with tripple webber turbo setups (blow through) they all use these things called "surge tanks" which are just big box plenums that sit on the inlets of the carbs ... the turbo blows up into the bottom of the box (be a nice short pipe !) and bob's ur uncle ... tripple webber turbo and you can still use your zed inlet manifolds.. i would imagine it would be very hard to tune and you would needs extensive rejetting. sorry the pics of the motors arent better but they're the best ive got... This car is a twin turbo 3.1L L28 stroker with tripple 50mm DOCE Webbers This one is a 2.7L L28 with tripple 45mm DOCE Webbers and a Trust TD07 turbo