adivin

I'm wondering how the adjustment screw is secured to that equalizer pin. Is it threaded or should it just slide out once I loosen the square nuts?

Ok, now I'm ready to deal with this. Could they have made this anymore difficult?

Shoot, I just pried one bracket open to the cable out before I saw your reply. The other side slid right out just like you said. Thanks!

Damn! Snug is right. It seems like the gap in that bracket is too narrow. I will keep prying...

I can't get the cables out from the brackets where the clips were.

7 year thread resurrection. I got the clips off but still can't get the cable out from the brackets.

How do you remove the e brake cable from the two attachment points under the car? I was able to finally get the two retaining clips out (what a bitch) but still can't get the cable out from between the bracket that is on the car.

Ha! My wheels will actually be 15x7 VTO Lemans (0 offset). I looked at the 205/55 to get just a little less sidewall. The performance tire selection for 205/60 is almost non existent (Tire Rack).

I did use the calculator and a 205/60 15 has only a -.59 variance. I do not want to roll fenders I suspect we don't hear about 55 series because the tire offerings haven't been that great and not because of size. 205/50 and 60 do seem popular.

To go plus 1 would be a 205/60. I am willing to deviate from that.

Thoughts on a 205/55 on a 15x7 wheel with car lowered about 1"? I think that would be a sweet spot. Current offerings from Tire Rack are Kumho Ectsa, Dunlop Direzza, Yokohama Advan. What are experiences with any of these?

Why? Why have people been hot rodding cars since forever? Never mind the 3lb hammer to get the drums off...

Ok so I suppose this is one not to get...

I thought there would be more discussion on this one. Who makes the best rear conversion that is not total overkill for a non-track application?

I did bushings and wheel bearings. After the spindle pin and rear wheel bearings, I feel like I climbed Mt Everest.

I haven't started the front yet. I am finishing up some more work on the rear. I will keep you posted. Rear went smooth.

Oh boy! Well, that explains it. The Captain lives up to his namesake.

Another observation from today. Factory Service Manual says to put 290cc of oil in the strut tube. That is way too much. I had oil spilling all over when I put the strut in. Also tightening the gland nut and keeping the strut rod from turning was interesting.

I have a 12/71 build date. I will let you know how the front's fit. aj

I have a 12/71 build date. I will let you know how the front's fit. aj

Did the original 240Z Nissan U Joints on the half shafts have grease fittings?

I just put the Koni's in the rear of my 72 and had no issues. The Koni gland nut fit fine.

Oh well I guess the suspension isn't going in today. Any recommendations on bump stops or which ones to avoid? Thanks for the info on the metal bushing. I got it now.

I’m about to install the Konis with Eibach springs and didn’t consider if I need bump stops. Do I need bump stops in the rear? Also was it determined what that metal bushing is for that comes with the Konis and exactly how it installs?

Thanks, have you found it stays on even after even after several miles of dirt and debris kicked up from driving? I can't decide if I want to paint black or the color of the car (112) under there.