adivin

Yes, spring disconnected.

Finally got a chance to try this. The odd thing is that even with the adjustment nut turned all the way down, the rod still makes contact with the lever.

Thanks Mark! All of these convoluted instructions and it comes down to "Adjust the rod length so there's about 1/16" of movement before it starts pushing on the lever."

One thing I should mention is that the engine is out of the car. I was trying to make some baseline adjustments now. So, I don't have the advantage of trial and error.

I don't have the self-adjusting. I have the adjustable slave cylinder. The FSM instructions are not making sense to me. Specifially, "tighten the adjusting nut and eliminate clearance between the top of the withdrawal lever and release bearing."

Ok, I found the original return spring! Still not sure how to adjust.

Ok, I am thoroughly confused. My car with 12/71 build date came with the adjustable type and return spring. The replacement I recently purchased is below. It has the hole for the return spring, but came with no spring. I do not have my original spring. Can I use this slave cylinder without the return spring? If so, how do I adjust it?

Where is this diagram? I don't see it in my FSM. My Fig. CL-16 is for the master cylinder.

Thank you, thank you, thank you...one less thing for me to obsess about now.

The bolt looks like a normal bolt, but yes the bolt is kept from turning. The nut and lock washer went on the diff side. It's the only way this thing can go together that I can see. The info from the original post can't be correct when he says the FSM says the bolt goes in the other way. Man, there is not much room to snake that 12mm wrench in there to tighten!

It's Halloween so big zombie thread here. I just ran into this problem. If I put the bolt in the other way, the lock washer will not sit flush. What is the deal here?

Just had the same freaking problem. I had to grind the retaining clips.

It looks like I've convinced the Z Store to correct their installation instructions regarding retaining the outer sleeve. It no longer says to retain the original outer sleeve. Installation Note: When the factory rubber-in-sleeve bushing is removed for use with this kit, the inside mating surface of the Mount Bar MUST be cleaned, deburred, and smoothed, so there are no protrusions that may damage the urethane bushings.

I also spoke to Prothane (the manufacurer) and their bushing requires the outer sleeve to come out also. I asked the Z Store to please update their installation notes!

I spoke with Energy Suspension. Their bushings require the original outer sleeve to be removed. I wish these resellers would update their installation notes! Yarb, what brand bushing did you use?

I found out they are actually made by Energy.

This is a 240. I think only Prothane makes them. The bushings are 31mm and the hole is 28mm. I even milled 1mm of the bushing and it still doesn't press in correctly.

These bushing aren't going in with the sleeve. The fitment isn't even close enough with a press. I even chamfered the bushing a bit. This is the exact same issue I had with the rear control arm misinformation.

There is no way the poly bushing will slide right in like on the video. Maybe, just maybe , if I use a press...

I was just researching this. I didn't trust the info from MSA because they were completely wrong when they said the inner sleeve stays in on the rear control arm. Was the fit very loose when you tried the bushing with the sleeve removed?

I'll just go with Poly. Can't be that bad.

Are the OEM bushings available from anywhere?

Are the OEM bushings available anywhere?

I guess my point is this is my original diff and it has the square plugs. We are the original owners of the car. Trying to figure out why I have these plugs...

Check this out. Here is a picture of a diff for sale at Whitehead and it has the plugs like mine! At some point did Nissan use two types of diff plugs? https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/nissan-oem-4-11-r180-diff-differential-used-datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx/#