User0945

Thank you, i also found a good diagram on the manual of the coolant flow. My only question left would be the flow between cylinders, is it supposed to be open for all as in the pic or closed? I looked at alternatives to hot tanking and i found the baking thing(idk the exact name) but it cost about 200$. I still have to figure out how the rest of the block will go, i would love to reuse my old pistons, but that's for another topic, i have never gone to a machinist or rebuild anything before :p.

Is the big port the inlet? I dont have the core plugs in, it just comes out of them

Yeah, the thing is that it is completely clogged, there is no flow between left side and right. I don't have any trusted machinist to take the engine either, i was asking around the area and the price for a hot tank is 80$-120$ and that is all the cleaning methods they offer.

As far as I know the entire block is iron. I guess just putting the liquid into the system for some time. There is no flow between left and right at the moment. I will look for some shop that can clean it, I just want to take all I can before that

It was really helpful, on the use of CLR, reading the product manufacturers advice it says not to let it sit for longer than 2 min. Have you ever tried it? If so how do you apply it to the block? All the passages between my cylinders are clogged. On the mean time I'm using a vinegar solution to clean as much as possible.

Yes the block is super clean inside, nothing was seized and had compression.

I bought this engine with the purpose of rebuilding it, i have stripped everything down to the block, inside of the coolant passages i found a weird thing that i cant identify. I wanted to take the block to a hot tank to clean all the parts before i started putting everything back in. I found this disgusting thing just filling the coolant passages and after asking someone said it could be Stop leak and that the block was done. Can someone identify what is that? Will it go away with just a deep clean or any substance to dilute it?

I have no story except that the owner bought the car in georgia and welded a new floor. Maybe he redid the that part too but was too lazy to cut the hole back, car also has a cut roll cage and a Z motorsports sticker on the back window, but i lost the contact of the guy, i guess i will never know.

I have no idea as to why, is rusting on that part below, im going to get a photo tomorrow. Im a total noob at body work but for what i understeand i need to sand everythung to bare metal and prime it just like the exterior and blend the welds. After priming should the hole car be painted as one and just put the interior trim over that?

Did you see the floor being modified in any way from stock? Like different height or some extra holes. I only see rust bleeding through the part where there is no black coat, but that might be because the coat is covering it in the first place.

I need help because i cant find any information on what the interior should be painted or coated with. The last owner redid the floor panels and now they look like this. Should I keep that black coat? Is painting the interior the same process as the exterior or what products am i supposed to use? There is no rust that i can see under the car.

Thanks, im new to the transmission stuff and this might go out of the original question but i don't want to create a new post, how do i check the gears?. I know i have to rotate the input shaft but, how do i get them to change when the transmission is like that?

I bought the oven cleaner and is like magic, as for the weld f its not going to affect anything i might just clean it and leave it.

I pull the transmission out of an engine which is been sitting for 25 years and i found at the bottom a hole in the bell housing surrounded by white powder, my best opinion is that the aluminum rot and is just disintegrating. Im cleaning as much of the transmission as i can but i dont really know of any good product to use so i going a little slow. Is the hole is going to have any negative impact? How can i fix it as to prevent the spread and maybe cover it?

I got the engine, transmission, headers and pieces of the trim i needed, the guy gave me more things that he said in the ad for free. I will start reading and checking how to take things apart, i rotated the engine and it seems good and will all accessories.

Is a 5 speed and the area i live is florida, the guy tells me he has most if not all the extras for the engine but i will have to see. Thank you so much for remembering me about the extras, i could have let slide that so easily, you night have just save me a lot of trouble.

Certainly the internal condition will be unknown until its open, i plan to rebuild it but i don't want to open it to find the block is crack in half or that i have to replace the entire head. The guy says that the Engine turns over nicely by hand, im going to assume that is what you say about rotating the valve train with a socket. I was just looking at visual checks that tell me if the engine has suffer any mayor damage, other from that inspecting the transmission and driveshaft, any tips for those?. I dont want to tune the engine to get more power, i dont know how great of a platform they are, but for now i just want to get the car and enjoy it as it was manufactured. Down the road i plan to engine swap with a 1995 BMW M3 engine or similar, im currently reading more about that swap. How is the resale value for the l28 engines? I don't know if its even possible to resell that engine once rebuild.

My 78 280z is currently a rolling chassis and i need basically every piece on the engine bay, a guy is selling his l28 engine + transmission, driveshaft and wire harness for $750. I don't know much about these engines and how to inspect them. He says is a N42 block with N47 head in it and it has over 150k miles pulled from a car t-boned in 1995. I wanted to see what is the price for one of these engines and what checks should i make while inspecting it. Same thing for transmission and driveshaft

If i do the primer now with a good brand and in a few months i want to paint, will the prime need to be redone again from bare metal or i can get away with just sanding this one. If im going to do it expensive i rather do it good the first time, do i need to protect the primer in any way?

Sure, as for now the car is a rolling shell without engine transmission and many other things missing, sadly i cant put the car indoors for a while so im doing my best for it not to rust. I was going to buy the Homeshades primer, but since you told me that i might just use the cans i already have for the interior. What primer do you recommend, i dont know how to differentiate between waterproof or not.

thanks for the help, 50-80grit worked wonders with it, i just want the coat for a few months, can i get away with a cheap 1$ per can one? i plan to do it again when is time to actually paint completely the car. The forum you directed is impressive, i will asks more questions there, thanks.

I bought a 280z to restore,but lack knowledge on how to do the paint and protect the Z from rust. I'm starting with both the front fenders on that condition. My idea was to sand until bare metal and prime it for the time being. Although im not sure of correct way to do it taking whatever is on there is being and im considering paint stripper although i don't know what layers are on there. What would be the best way to do it?