iscnetwork
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Posts
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Thanks. I knew it could be done but never had any need till now. I knew the local machine shop close to me could but closed during China Virus.
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New floor pans, would be my recommendation. I can't really see the rails to know for sure on those.
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I found this person listed: https://porterfield-brakes.com Does anyone have someone they could recommend in addition? Also does anyone know what kind of adhesive is required? or better where to buy it? Thanks in advance.
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Thanks Jim, you put me on the right path. My recommendations after using an acetylene torch for about 2 hours is grab something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W22TCB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you leave 1 lug nut on a stud. Tighten it but do not strain your back or arm; you want tension not pieces. THEN use the heat underneath the long bar; center of drum. In 3 minutes POP.
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Thanks I like seeing photos of other Z cars. I miss not being in a big city where there is a club of Z owners close by.
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Great news. Send pictures of your Z for people to see.
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All of that is bad news. What does an OEM pump cost? The one of ebay was $300. I thought I had it made... but now I may have been a victim of the "evil" hose clamp vs. I thought a cracked hose. I got my Z sort of started, but blew gasoline all over the garage. I had to abandon ship.
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Someone at Nissan messed us the transition from 260 to 280 apparently. Thanks, since I have to re-engineer I think I will add one at the tank. I had to go to 3 places to find 1/2 fuel hose [NAPA] for anyone else later in this position who reads this.
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Since I have no way of knowing if my set car's setup is normal or not. I only have 1 inline fuel filter and it is under the hood. It seems strange not to have one at the fuel tank before the pump.
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Yes it had an OEM one installed. It will not when I am done. 3 of the screws in the bracket are broken off and the original rubber bumpers are unglued.
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Fuel pump was bad, circuit is good. Didn't get any further than that. The bracket is all messed up, it will need some drilling & tapping to be usable again.
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On my '63, the solenoid inside had arced and corroded so much over time that it would not get enough amps to the starter to run in. I just had to file down the brass bars and all was good again.
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If the car is in gear can you move the car and see if the fan belt is moving? To unlock an Engine, take out the spark plugs, [label the wires well] put penetrating oil in every cylinder. Rock the car back and forth in gear, and it should break free. NOTE: penetrating is bad for an engine. When you can get the car running, change the oil & filter. Add some SFR oil treatment to new oil. Change again in 500 miles. (https://sfrcorp.com/products/category/oil-additives/)
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I figured from the diagrams it would not be easy to get to, until the picture wasn't exactly even for sure where to find. Thanks everyone for the input. I will attempt my next battle tomorrow. Good night, have some great dreams.
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where is the relay? I might be able to get the VOM on it while I am 'starting' the car vs. taking apart another part of the car.
