iscnetwork

Thanks. I knew it could be done but never had any need till now. I knew the local machine shop close to me could but closed during China Virus.

New floor pans, would be my recommendation. I can't really see the rails to know for sure on those.

I found this person listed: https://porterfield-brakes.com Does anyone have someone they could recommend in addition? Also does anyone know what kind of adhesive is required? or better where to buy it? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Jim, you put me on the right path. My recommendations after using an acetylene torch for about 2 hours is grab something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W22TCB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you leave 1 lug nut on a stud. Tighten it but do not strain your back or arm; you want tension not pieces. THEN use the heat underneath the long bar; center of drum. In 3 minutes POP.

Thanks I like seeing photos of other Z cars. I miss not being in a big city where there is a club of Z owners close by.

Great news. Send pictures of your Z for people to see.

All of that is bad news. What does an OEM pump cost? The one of ebay was $300. I thought I had it made... but now I may have been a victim of the "evil" hose clamp vs. I thought a cracked hose. I got my Z sort of started, but blew gasoline all over the garage. I had to abandon ship.

Someone at Nissan messed us the transition from 260 to 280 apparently. Thanks, since I have to re-engineer I think I will add one at the tank. I had to go to 3 places to find 1/2 fuel hose [NAPA] for anyone else later in this position who reads this.

Since I have no way of knowing if my set car's setup is normal or not. I only have 1 inline fuel filter and it is under the hood. It seems strange not to have one at the fuel tank before the pump.

Yes it had an OEM one installed. It will not when I am done. 3 of the screws in the bracket are broken off and the original rubber bumpers are unglued.

Fuel pump was bad, circuit is good. Didn't get any further than that. The bracket is all messed up, it will need some drilling & tapping to be usable again.

On my '63, the solenoid inside had arced and corroded so much over time that it would not get enough amps to the starter to run in. I just had to file down the brass bars and all was good again.

If the car is in gear can you move the car and see if the fan belt is moving? To unlock an Engine, take out the spark plugs, [label the wires well] put penetrating oil in every cylinder. Rock the car back and forth in gear, and it should break free. NOTE: penetrating is bad for an engine. When you can get the car running, change the oil & filter. Add some SFR oil treatment to new oil. Change again in 500 miles. (https://sfrcorp.com/products/category/oil-additives/)

I figured from the diagrams it would not be easy to get to, until the picture wasn't exactly even for sure where to find. Thanks everyone for the input. I will attempt my next battle tomorrow. Good night, have some great dreams.

where is the relay? I might be able to get the VOM on it while I am 'starting' the car vs. taking apart another part of the car.