iscnetwork

Thanks. I knew it could be done but never had any need till now. I knew the local machine shop close to me could but closed during China Virus.

New floor pans, would be my recommendation. I can't really see the rails to know for sure on those.

I found this person listed: https://porterfield-brakes.com Does anyone have someone they could recommend in addition? Also does anyone know what kind of adhesive is required? or better where to buy it? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Jim, you put me on the right path. My recommendations after using an acetylene torch for about 2 hours is grab something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W22TCB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure you leave 1 lug nut on a stud. Tighten it but do not strain your back or arm; you want tension not pieces. THEN use the heat underneath the long bar; center of drum. In 3 minutes POP.

Thanks I like seeing photos of other Z cars. I miss not being in a big city where there is a club of Z owners close by.

Great news. Send pictures of your Z for people to see.

All of that is bad news. What does an OEM pump cost? The one of ebay was $300. I thought I had it made... but now I may have been a victim of the "evil" hose clamp vs. I thought a cracked hose. I got my Z sort of started, but blew gasoline all over the garage. I had to abandon ship.

Someone at Nissan messed us the transition from 260 to 280 apparently. Thanks, since I have to re-engineer I think I will add one at the tank. I had to go to 3 places to find 1/2 fuel hose [NAPA] for anyone else later in this position who reads this.

Since I have no way of knowing if my set car's setup is normal or not. I only have 1 inline fuel filter and it is under the hood. It seems strange not to have one at the fuel tank before the pump.

Yes it had an OEM one installed. It will not when I am done. 3 of the screws in the bracket are broken off and the original rubber bumpers are unglued.

Fuel pump was bad, circuit is good. Didn't get any further than that. The bracket is all messed up, it will need some drilling & tapping to be usable again.

On my '63, the solenoid inside had arced and corroded so much over time that it would not get enough amps to the starter to run in. I just had to file down the brass bars and all was good again.

If the car is in gear can you move the car and see if the fan belt is moving? To unlock an Engine, take out the spark plugs, [label the wires well] put penetrating oil in every cylinder. Rock the car back and forth in gear, and it should break free. NOTE: penetrating is bad for an engine. When you can get the car running, change the oil & filter. Add some SFR oil treatment to new oil. Change again in 500 miles. (https://sfrcorp.com/products/category/oil-additives/)

I figured from the diagrams it would not be easy to get to, until the picture wasn't exactly even for sure where to find. Thanks everyone for the input. I will attempt my next battle tomorrow. Good night, have some great dreams.

where is the relay? I might be able to get the VOM on it while I am 'starting' the car vs. taking apart another part of the car.

I am only a one man show here. I could not here any noise from the back when testing. Note: the fuel pump was leaking when I parked the Z. Will the fuel pump show voltage with the ignition switch on but not all the way into the 'start' position? tomorrow God willing, I will jack up the rear end and disconnect the fuel pump wiring and test it with a battery charger. Leave a jumper on the wiring to see if 12volts is getting to the fuel pump in start mode.

Thanks much.

If you don't mind I need a couple definitions. START = all the way clockwise but not trying to kick in the solenoid / starter The yellow or whitish wire is the one to disconnect? (It goes from battery to inside of the larger wiring harness which goes into the dash board. ) [Guessing here, the only thing connected is the Accessories wire that runs directly from the + battery lead connector. ] [the 2 red wires are what replaces the Yellow Solenoid wire with the aftermarket relay. If I ever find all my wiring, I plan to replace those with yellow & yellow / red.] thanks.

I have spark thru the coil now. NO gas coming from the fuel filter. ideas experts?

I really couldn't tell what color are actually connect to the 2 screws on the coil wire from the pictures. thanks.

Which color goes to the coil + terminal. I really would not like to take my educated guess. Thanks.

If this works and the engine cranks. Remove the ignition switch and check to see if it died with a VOM like mine did (but only on the resistor wire). otherwise you have lots of relay check and wiring checking to do.

I have yet to be able to move the car of its own power. The key would not let it crank over, a screw driver worked but no spark or power to the coil no fuel (but that might be normal as someone said above) I was able to get voltage to the yellow wire this afternoon and so I am hopeful when I get the wiring back together I will be able to crank the car with the ignition key. I will give it a chance at that point with the MSD to see if I have spark on the coil wire... IF not MSD comes out. Then I will try it with the resistor wired properly for the stock transistor ignition & coil. (I ordered the ignition module, not knowing if I need it or not yet.) Any better idea... I am open to suggestions (I was a body man, not a mechanic.).

I can foresee in my not-immediate future removing about 1/3 of the wiring in my car.

When to the garage, tested to see if I need to be all bucketed up. My interlock is disabled. In all of my tinkering the yellow wire going to solenoid has "juice". But did not have any time to put everything back together and see what will be my next battle (pray NONE). Thanks everyone. I should have some 'garage time' tomorrow.