Wally

I am a goof. I blacked off the holes in the manifold like someone told me a while back to do to get rid of this stuff. However, it seems like the rod in image 1 going down to the hole in the linkage b/t carbs serve another function? In image 2 the part i am touching flaps around if the rod isnt there. Is it okay to flap around or do you need to modify this by putting maybe a spring on it? thanks!

1971. The FSM i have is only about 35 pages; maybe there is a longer version. I havent seen those items in there, at least not an image. I did see one of them in the Haynes manual pg 60. They didnt name it directly but were talking about the EGR valve..... i dont think thats what it is though or maybe it is

Can anyone help me determine what these are called? I have flipped through my haynes manual and must be overlooking them. thanks

thanks all. great info. i went to ACE Hardware and bought a pile of stuff. i am 50-50 i can make this work based on images in thread.

Maybe i did this wrong but here's what i did. I put bolts in that you can see. I left just enough room so they would come out the front of the air housing so i could put a wing nut on and tighten down. To get the housing on w/o the filter i have to twist and turn it at an angle. if the filter is in i cant twist it to get it over the bolt. this is a mess....LOL

thanks. went to ace hardware and cobbled together some M8 bolts to secure things. I will figure out something for the seals. i am having a room issue. I barely got the air filter in around the bolts and i cant get the cover on. I did add some headers... would that move things over this much? anybody else had this issue?

On of the items missing entirely when i got my car was the air filter housing and parts. I was able to buy the housing unit in image below but dont have any other items. I read another post that had the microfiche image and parts. do i really need all those. seems like a lot. Does anyone have an image of how the base itself connnects to the carbs? Any images, links or info would be appreciated. Have no idea where to get these parts......trying local nissan but its doesnt look good.

i have the car on 12" race ramps so no issue getting tranny under... WHEW! thanks man i was seriously worried about that. i couldnt mount the tranny by myself; it kept rolling off my floor jack. So, i had to order a tranny lift..just waiting for it to arrive. i guess leaving it attacking the the engine lift for a few days wont harm anything. I tried hard to mount the engine with the tranny still attached but i just couldnt make that happen.

So i have my engine ready to put back in. my tranny is out and will be put back in after i get engine in. I have engine in bay and mounts all bolted up. SOmething is bad wrong. i have some images with tension from my engine lift still on it. when i take tension off the engine dips badly toward the back toward tranny. This isnt normal is it? can anyone see anything from pics? i know shorter mount is on passenger side so there is a larger than normal (imo) angle toward passenger side when i take off tension.

other than Ebay is there anywhere to vet OEM hubcaps? Anyone know a place that refinishes them or if its even possible to refinish? i apparently have the series II for 1971. thanks

i just changed it back and tried to push on it. this is about all it will do. not sure if this look better? I can push the kink toward the tensioner and it straightens out but when i let go the tensioner pushes it back to this position

Here is when i change to other hole as suggested. does this look better now?

yikes. ok. will need to take a few things back off and look into that. thanks

Gotya. Before rebuild the key was at an angle where the thrower would NOT come off without removing the key. On page 1 or 2 of this thread i saw someone image where key was completely flat. I did mine like that and the thrower will slide off/on. Here is a good image of the tensioner right before i put it. There is a black wedge of rubber on the end if thats what you mean. This is all that came in the rebuild kit for the tensioner btw.

Guys can you confirm one thing please. The crankshaft oil thrower...should the key be flat allowing the throwing to easily slide off or should it be put in at a slight angle to the thrower stays on no matter its position?

i have message this person. no response as of yet. i will update with ETA's and price if he responds

i see. no it wasnt warped. it was in good shape. i think the just machined it down to make sure everything was even and pretty but he said it was in good shape overall. i am thinking that what you said about valves sinking too deep it more likely the culprit. He said earlier today a valve job would make everything 100% but he's already put it all back together, timed it etc. and it gonna charge me to take it apart and put it back. My thought was he shoulda checked the lash pad and valve stuff before putting it together...So i dont think our meeting Monday will be very polite

thanks. This is all over my head a bit. I am not sure whats going on. he did machine the head i know that much. i will drive up there monday and measure the lash pads. He keeps saying there are .120" but i am not sure they are. i thought they were .160". Anyway i here is the place and link i bought them https://zcardepot.com/products/lash-pad-cap-valve-rocker-arm-guide-oem?_pos=1&_sid=0f0a8f018&_ss=r unfortunately it doesnt say what size they are just OEM...

If the lashes aren't "100%" (whatever that means) what could happen? my machinist can't seem to explain the possibility to me

My engine rebuild is killing me....UGG So my machinist just told me the OEM lash pads i ordered were too thick...they are .120" He said he needs about .080" Can anyone help here? Not sure if these are even available. Only thing i saw was https://zcardepot.com/products/isky-valve-cap-lash-pad-custom-racing-cam-l24-l28?_pos=2&_sid=d43713ea7&_ss=r They say .080" for something but i am not sure if they will work with everything else being OEM (not a performance cam) and such thanks

so gloss black on metal and an "wood" some lacquer i assume?

thanks. took everyones advice. lot of penetrating oil. it finally broke free and i got the proper length set now.

from what i see on youtube i am supposed to turn the little nut on the end to extend it out (its not long enough). Can someone confirm this is correct. I put vice grips on it and the wrench wont budge it....it could be its frozen up, just nervous to put too much force. I have broken things previously doing that 🙂

I have 2 steering wheels. I would like to get at least one refreshed like new. I dont think i have the skills to do that and make it look 100%. Any suggestions on who could do this? LIke should i call local carpenters?