Wally

i just got in new rubber shifter boot. good seal. inside while driving still have a smell of raw gasoline. Its enought to get to you after a couple minutes in the car. Have all the back panels off. went to put in some gas to look and smell. dont think its coming from there. Also, dont have any gas spots in my garage where i keep it. I fixed the choke cable issue...i think at least. so its not that. Upon popping the hood i could smell faintly gasoline only thing i was able to find was the set screws i used to cap off where the environmental control gizmos went were all loose. Could this be the culprit.

I know there is a mechanical fuel pump on but i think you are talking about an electric pump? link is a big help. thanks. I have the old rod. will take new one out and match in up maybe tomorrow.

huh....hooked up the wires and it move the fuel gauge 100% over to full....no way its full.. maybe 3 gallons in.

by looking at old posts i was able to remove and put in new sending unit, o ring and locking ring. 99% sure its all in correct. I am getting ready to attach wiring. Pretty sure the yellow wire with cap goes at top (one with small bit of rubber on stud). Also think the other cap, blackish/redish wire goes to bottom stud. Anyone have an clue what the other 2 wires are for? many thanks

car starts with no problem. it could be a belt. will check on that

here is short clip from today and the sound it invariably makes IMG_4338.MOV

I am about to put all trim back in.... is there a certain order? I am thinking the rear cargo trim then put in the quarter trim lapping over the cargo trim? not 100% sure though as it appears you could go either way with it I upgraded seat harness. It appears that the main bolt up top goes through the quarter trim. Is that normal?

can you believe it just stopped again. Anyway, when it starts making it again i will make a quick recording

it worked. brakes working pretty good now. Thanks a bunch

fully charged battery. that stopped sound for a while. now it just started back again and battery is charged. Wondering if it could be the starter?

just now took a short trip after fixing cable. there is still a smell...not nearly as bad. I am thinking the current smell is exhaust though as boot, console, etc are not installed. So it appears this may have fixed the gas smell.

piano wire installed. Works like a charm!!!

will give your method a try...it cant hurt

On front end bleed valves are on top side, on back end (drums) bleed valve is near bottom area. Here is process i used to bleed brakes. 1) I took off tires 2) filled reservoirs and made sure they stayed full in MC 3) Started at farthest tire from MC working to closest. 4) Had wife or son pump brakes about 4-5 times and hold pedal to floor. I then released valve pressure, then tightened valve back. Wife/son then let off the brake pedal. I repeated this about 3 times for each tire.

the pedal definitely gets firmer when its pumped. I bled it pretty good at all the wheels, starting with farthest and working toward the closes to MC. i can do it again but doubtful on results. Just not sure how the Booster might play into this knowing what we know.

Dang. I didnt. Also didnt measure how far the nut was on the inside clevis part. Didnt think to as none of it was working.

all tires have been taken off. new bleed valves installed and all brakes bled well. Pedal still goes to the floor and stopping is weak. AT this point the brake booster must need adjusting, i guess? I have the tool gauge to measure. everything appeared proper but now I am 2nd guessing myself as something is still wrong. As for the reaction disc, i have a spare one. I didnt check to see if the refurb had one in as everything was together already from Motorsport....

I have my antenna hole rubber plugged. But i have the original antenna with cable and i think it all works (i am missing the outer chrome portion that screws on outside car). Wondering what others did. Did you go with A stationary antenna? If you used original where did you mount the electric button to raise lower antenna. I dont have original radio, but a newer one. So would need some kinda button if go electric route. Or did you just rig it so when the radio is turned on the antenna raises and lowers when turned off

thats awesome! found a video showing how to use on youtube too. Spent hours yesterday taking cable out and manually lubing and putting it back in. it works better but not good enough. ordered this so fingers crossed.

gas not exhaust. shifter boot is off. have cable out...hitting it with the graphite lubricant on ends...not really sure how to get it inside. Do i need to remove wires completely and reinsert into black plastic sleeves

have the headlight relay. that bracket says for 72-73 or series 2. Mine is kinda a series 1.5.... the console is a series 1. wondering if that will still work as for graphite spray, something like this? https://www.amazon.com/DGF-GRAPHITE-Spray-Anticorrosive-Lubricant/dp/B08BPK68GP?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 only cables i see are used on ebay. Anyone have a source for new/refurb, ready to install cables?

This might be it. I am still working on the cables They are like new, long enough with some slack but the choke doesnt slide well at all. In fact the cable seems stuck a little meaning the choke handle wont fully release back in. Will explore this.

Funny you should say that. Battery was dead. i charged it enough to crank.... will do an overnight charge and see. thanks

My car just started making a very odd sound when it turns over. It sounds like a spinning tires. only until the car fully cranks up and then sound is gone. Any ideas. I will try to get a quick video next time i crank it up.

now i havent put the center console in yet but each time i drive the car, very short trip, i smell of gas. Everything has been redone professionally. New carbs, headers, exhaust etc... How likely is it its all b/c of the center console? I am thinking got to be more to it that just that.