Wally

i agree. something is off with the voltage. Someone told me that this alternator has an internal regulator and thus dont use the OEM one. i bought the voltage blockoff plug...that is in currently. I will get some image or a video uploaded in a day to two. thanks

there was. I bought that plug when i got this alternator. So i am using the plug ZCD said too. I likely have something hooked up wrong though.

no worries. is this image any better?

about the ballast resistor, i didn't mean it affects the idling. What i read was if you put in electronic ignition you should eliminate the ballast resistor but if you leave it hooked up their are some crossed signals somewhere that prevents the tachometer from registering activity....that could be all BS but i read that somewhere

good question. it burns up when turning the key and cranking the engine up

thanks. i will try to do this but it might take some time

roger that. i ordered a new one. When it arrives i will take it apart and post images just to see what ya'll think.

Hi all sorry for being quiet so long. i had some work and family issues. I was able to get the car started. I still have some issues though. 1. it is idled WAY too high. Need some advice on that. have a short video so you can hear it. not sure if its still a timing issue, carb issue or what. i cant tell you the RPM bc the gauge isnt working. After a LOT of research i found that the ballast resistor is the likely culprit. i left it attached even after i put in the protonix ignition. Still not sure exactly how to correct it but i think this may be issue. 2. the fusible link on starter. Something is wrong. I keep burning through these. After the video i made starting it the wire burned up again. i took a short video showing it and how i have it connected. 3. i also took a short video of the alternator's connection. I am really concerned about why the fusible links keep burning up. Not sure where to start to fix issue. Not sure if it matters but i was having a dickens of a time with the timing, distributor, protonoix ignition etc. i finally think i got it all. However, i am not sure if something wrong there could be causing this fuse to burn. I had someone look at car when i wasnt around. They told me the alternator was pulling 18volts....not sure what that means. Also, i havent checked it out to verify. I upgrade alternator to https://zcardepot.com/products/alternator-high-amp-80-240z-260z-280z?variant=19280584015985 thanks for any help idling.m4v 208239756_starterfusiblelink.m4v alternator.m4v

Clutch cylinder is leaking as in image. Its brand new. any ideas what could be cause. I am 99% sure its installed properly? I am fine with buying another and putting it on if it will fix the issue? It starts leaking and pouring out when i pump the clutch. cant even keep enough fluid in line to attempt to bleed line. btw. i have been absent a couple months. I have my car somewhat running finally. i will post later in mechanical on current engine issues. thanks to everyone who has been super helpful.

the latch only? No you dont. What is the issue you are having?

anyone can recommend a good timing light? dont have one and need to buy...all of em i see on amazon have bad top reviews.

thanks for that SteveJ. if i redo the compression test with all the plugs out at same time do you think i will get different results?

will do. FYI though all fuel lines hooked up same as fuel pump and carbs....it should be getting gas...just check the little fuel filter up front and it has a little gas in it which had to have come from the fuel tank. Gas is fresh, only couple weeks old

WD-40

here is one feeler gauge video. Soo...i may have done the pressure test wrong. I removed 1 plug at a time and did each cylinder. Should i have removed all of the plugs and done the test? IMG_2954.m4v

i think pattern is right but #s are in order and actual. pretty bad? i

accident

I just did a compression test for each cylinder. Here are results 1: 150 2: 149-150 3. 165 4. 140-141 or so 5. 155 6. 160 i read here on forum somewhere 175-180ish is normal? Does this indicate a lash or camshaft problem?

thanks. I remember asking him and i think he used those sizes. i do 100% recall him saying he used different sizes for intake vs exhaust, although i never verified that. I have a feeler gauge i assume i would manually move the cam to where the "point" is fully down on each lash and measure? Is there a standard ballpark range it should be within

would you suggest getting a new stock cam to replace one i have

this could be the issue. i had this done professionally by a local engine shop. The guy did call me several times over the lashes and trying to make sure they were correct. is this something i can visually check by taking the valve cover off or should i measure them with some feeler gauge?

ok here is a short video of me trying to start. I removed plugs, turned breaker bar until got lobes right and degrees around 7 or 8 degrees. this put rotor on distributor in right spot. i check magnets on pertronix also. Put plugs back in and double check plug cable locations. sprayed fluid in carbs and tried to crank..video then picks up there IMG_2949.MOV

thanks. magnet is right... tried to start it... it wouldnt...sigh

no worries. thanks for that link. I confirmed its sitting right at about 7 degree with lobes up and rotor in correct spot. Am i good to put plugs in, valve cover on and try and start it now

Based on SteveJ's latest image i am confused again. Here is where mine is currently located. Its on the other side of the engine. There is a little triangle metal tab there under the alternator bracket. I circled it. Soo..... thats the wrong spot? I know its hard to see but the tip of that metal piece is at 7-8 degrees currently