Wally

Just got around to this. all bolts are really tight. When i crank the car it squeels. When i press the gas pedal it squeels again. After about 10-15 seconds all the squeeling stops. I can upload another short video with sound if that would help.

Thanks guy. i have the gauges Zed listed but its probably best i take it to an expert. Dang Youtube. they made it look simple and easy

I have a new vintage air system in my car from ZCD. Looks awesome but its not spitting out cool air, it was around 79ish Fareinheit. I had this professional done by a "Z expert" but he is hours away from where i live. I used a $20 R134a can with gauge to test pressure. It says on it pressure should be between 30-50 psi. i was at about 120psi. I evacuated it down to normal range. when i started doing this it was spitting out a lot of yellow fluid and pressure but when i got it down to around 50ish psi nothing but room temp air was coming out. I am wondering if i should remove everything and start over getting it around 45psi? Any thoughts

The "vent" piece straight from my blower needs replacing. I dont see the technical name of it in the service manual. Would it be the blower duct? or main air duct? Hard to search for the part when i am not positive what is called

Found the issue. New harness was grounding out. One of the connections had red wire in wrong hole. So just had to move it over

just got in a climate control harness. I hooked it up. fuse still blowing like before. not sure where to even start looking for this short

I agree. i have things back apart. i found a climate control harness that looks new for $40. i am going to start with that. hopefully the damaged wire is in that

okay. i cant tell from this image you attached as easily as the one i did...but there are 2 inline fuses right beside each other. If the one thats blowing is the fan would that stop any activity from the AC and blower? Because nothing is happening.

Look like the blue part is to blower power, #34? and the red wire #55 short clip of fuse blowing IMG_4711.MOV

I bought an AC kit from zcd. i think vintage air made it. All new. Had it professionally installed. was working fine. i took panel off to get to instrument panel. when i was done i put things back on like they were. AC wouldnt work. Thats when i started investigating and found those fuse back there kept blowing. The wire i am holding is black... the small red arrow is where its located in the harness. Here is another image with color of wires clear

Guys I am lost here. I was putting my AC console all back together and AC did work when it used to just a day ago. When i turn the switch...nothing. In image 2, this came loose. Looks to me like a ground? Also it comes from wire harness that connects to AC switch. I found a hidden fuse i didnt know existed. It was blown, photo 1, numbered 3. I had ignition on and the above shown wire in photo 2 not grounded. I put a new fuse in, it got orange hot and blew. I turned ignition off. I grounded that wire, hopefully right thing to do? I then put in another fuse. It blew too. Any thoughts. btw, i have 2 connectors number 1 and 2 that dont go to anything. curious what they are. will start trying to look it up, but if anyone knows would appreciate it.

whew... i got the clock in but some of the edges of dash around clock gave way. anyone got suggestions on what kind of spray foam material might work to try and build area up a little

Its in a garage, fairly warm. However, i get your point. Maybe i will try a hair dryer on the spot. I tried to grease it up...didnt work As a last resort i though about getting a dremel with a sanding bit and taking off a smidgen around the edge. Dont want to but you wont see that anyway.

Just got new clock back. It wont seem to go back into place. its like the outer clock lip is just a hair off and wont slide back in. I have tried put the top of lip in and pushing up on it and dash but still wont do. Any tips on getting it back in without screwing something up?

Yes on side of head. No worries man

thats very interesting. I have recently read of others having issues with the fuel pump not operating properly and thus they attributed it to some of the smell issues. I am wondering the root cause and if it a new pump may be an answer.

Did you replace the neck filler too? after you got all hoses off were you able to see any particular issue with any hose or clamp?

Anyone have a good image of these on your car. I cant seem to find a good image of them on. I found one image, where i think it goes just cant really see exactly how.

i did have it plugged but since a month ago i have put in the electric antenna and hooked it up. As far the hatch goes it has to be 99% good and tight. There may be a small spot or two the eye cant see where there is a gap. I read in other very old posts a couple things. 1 person replaced all the fuel lines and gaskets on and near the fuel tank including the filler neck and gas cap seal. No more smell since. Another said their issue showed up when they changed a downward tip to an MSA tip. If i can find cheaply a downward tip i may add one on with some high temp tape and go around the block and see the effect.

Uggh... So i have replaced all the firewall grommets, made sure they all seal good. All new rubber seals on hatch and it seals really tight. Just drove the car and still smells bad of exhaust fumes. I am thinking may have to try the colored fog machine in the car and see where the gas is escaping to. Not sure what else to do at this point.

its Stock

sorry for all the posts. just very nervous. i dont want to ruin the engine. the gauge issue was a fuse. I checked the spot for instruments it was fine. However, i now know the fuse to check is the flasher spot. My fault should have checked all the fuses. I put sensor back on and the gauges work including oil pressure. here are the #s i got. idle is at 700rpm. (probably too low?) =28 psi 1500 rpm =55psi 2000 rpm - 58 psi 3000 rpm= 60psi When i hit 3000rpm smoke start coming from where the headers mount to engine block so i shut everything down. I will clean everything really good in case some oil spilled. Couple questions 1) if some oil spilled out would it smell really strong of burning. Because i got a strong burning smell. Again i shut it right off when i saw this. 2) i have been told empty an engine will hold 5 quarts. I bought a new OEM dipstick and with 5 quarts in its still registering about 60% toward high side (h). in other words its a little over halfway between L and H. I am assuming better to be on high side with oil Going to head to get some more oil. btw. again thanks for all the feedback here. Attached are two images. one with engine at idle and other at 3rpms Once engine cools, i get more oil in, and clean it all up i will make another post. Hopefully it will be the last 🙂

ONe step forward two steps back Looks like none of my gauges are working...speedometer, RPM etc...

I havent read all recent posts yet....but i may have made things worse. I put everything back together per service manual specs. New oil pump, new Filter etc.. I turned car on and car dash gauge registered absolutely nothing. I put in the mechanical oil gauge. At idle it showed 38 and when i revved engine up it hit 55. Not sure if this is good or bad.... i will get a helper and take some #s at certain RPMs and post.

everything looked super clean, brand new. no scuffs, nicks... nothing.