Tweeds

Posted this guy a few months back - wonder why it's still for sale... Ha!

Ha! Ya know, I've been having this issue for a while. I figure it might be some sort of server error or something because any other website would load well, yet stuff on here would take forever (sometimes it would time out, like you said). Funny thing is, there'd be times where the home page would load fast, but then it would take a good long while to load up a thread. Meanwhile, I'd check to see if it was my internet that was slow by opening another tab and, would you know it, I can watch a video on YouTube at 1080p no problem. I'm glad you brought this up because I've been thinking it was just me for a while. I've been paying close attention to the website's behavior trying to figure out the problem. That being said, I have found no pattern. There doesn't seem to be a specific time or circumstance that causes the site to slow down - sometimes it'll load like anything else, sometimes it'll take far longer than anything else, and sometimes it won't load at all. All I can say is that the website will sometimes slog, and it is seemingly a server problem rather than client. I'm interested to see how many other people share in our plight.

Feature's been around for a couple years now at the very least - my first discount offer was in August of 2019. Privy tactic of seasoned eBayers throwing things in your watchlist to see if the seller offers a good discount, as you said. From my experience, if a seller is offering a discount, you can often make a counteroffer for even less. They've probably had it listed for a while and want it gone.

Turn signals not working... classic. A widely discussed topic - a whole lot of great information out there surrounding it. All the solutions I've seen require taking apart the Turn Signal Switch. While this is a very professional and thorough way to go about things, it leaves room for breaking stuff, losing little pieces and so forth. That's more of a headache than I was willing to risk. So, let it be said that while my quick fix may not be the most permanent solution, it could be good enough for you. A few disclaimers: I did this on a late '71 240. From my understanding, the turn signals run through the Hazard Switch, so it's possible one's issue is with the Hazard Switch, not the Turn Signal Switch. If, like me, your hazards work fine, but any of your turn signals don't, then we're in it together. It is possible that your problem cannot be fixed by my method - maybe your contacts are bent rather than dirty. Most importantly - I am no expert when it comes to wiring, electricity and all that, but that's precisely how I got where I did... I am, however, certain one of the more educated in this forum (of which there are many) could elucidate anything I left unclear. What You Need: Brake Cleaner or Electrical/Contact Cleaner A Wire Brush Oil (I used 3 in 1 but others use Grade 20 oil) A Screwdriver A Bowl Take out your turn signal and move to a bench for cleaning. Keep an eye out for anything falling out that shouldn't during removal. Get over a bowl and spray the whole assembly down with your cleaner. Do this two or three times to get all the easy dirt and grime off. The bowl will both keep your work area clean and catch any little bits and pieces that could unfortunately fall out during the process. Once you've gotten all you can off just by spraying, take your wire brush and scrape off any remaining dirt. Be as careful as you can. Pay close attention to the moving and sliding parts. If it looks dirty, it probably is. Spray and scrape until you feel satisfied. Very scientific. Now, unscrew the two screws holding the blinker switch housing to the rest of the assembly. Inside are the contacts for your turn signals - the point of failure and the thing we're really here to fix. With the the blinker switch free, spray into the internal part of the switch. Don't go full blast when spraying as the cleaners can have a lot of force behind their spray and you don't want to disrupt any of the more delicate parts held within. Rock the sliding bit back and forth several times in an effort to more effectively clean the inside. Do this several times - spraying and sliding back and forth. Now, take your oil and drip it into the housing from the same entry point used to spray in the cleaner. Once again, slide back and forth to work the oil in. Ideally, you should be able to slide all the way up and down smoothly and easily. If not, spray it down, oil it, and slide it around again as many times as you have to 'til it all seems to work smoothly. Once you're satisfied, screw the contact housing back in and clean up any oil that got out of the housing. There'll probably be a good bit of it - it's quick and dirty after all! Take your oil and lubricate the other parts of the mechanism circled in the third picture, once again working them in. Take the time to check your connectors and headlight ground to see if they're clean. Clean them as needed. Move the turn signal one last time, see if it feels good. If it does, put everything back on the car and give it a test! My turn signals worked like new! Here are a few more technical resources I used in developing my idea and I recommend you watch/read them before doing anything. They'll at least help acquaint you with precisely what's going on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpnIxzrJoEA&list=LL&index=5&ab_channel=DatsunDave07 There's another part to this video and other more detailed videos on his channel. https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/blinker-detail/

Shame you gotta let it go on such terms... I remember the post you made when you got it - you seemed real jazzed for it. Hey, at least you get to say you owned a z for a little while!

Welcome, Dadson! Funny, I saw your username last night and thought, "Huh, that's nice - how have I never noticed it before?" Turns out you're brand new! As someone relatively new to all this (z's and wrenching in general) when compared to most other members, I can solidly attest to both the knowledge and hospitality of the people on this forum. Have fun!

It looks like S30's (especially 240's) have gone up a whole lot in the past year. I mean, they've risen steadily the past 20 years, but, man, they've taken a huge jump recently. What could have gone for about 15k in 2019/2020 is going in the 20's now. Same can be said for a lot of things, though... I reckon the new Z coming out will shoot prices of S30's up a whole lot, too, especially since they're taking inspiration from the older z cars.

That one not so perfect orange z I posted a few days ago ended up going for 21k, by the way. Z values are going up, up, up!

If a car was ruined by a flood but stayed in the garage the whole time - could it still technically be called garage kept? Ha!

There are a few pictures where they have the doors and some body panels removed during the restoration. Doglegs were still on for the pictures, but there's no telling what they did off camera. Car was on jack stands in all restoration phase pictures, too. Price is $7,100 with one day left - do these auctions usually take big jumps in the last day? There's another '72 in better condition going for 15 already with three days left. There's no way this orange car is selling for below 15 though, even with its flaws. If it does, I'll be pissed I couldn't steal it!

Yeah, not the prettiest there. Car looks fairly good on the whole of it, though - metal seems in good enough condition, interior's alright, paint looks nice, and the car runs fine. Not a show car, but not a car in need of extensive care off the trailer either - straight down the line in terms of condition. Similar ones have been going in the 20k range lately, it seems.

A nice '72 240 at only six grand with two days left - waddya reckon it'll end up going for? I think it'll go for about 25k, give or take but probably take - 30 is my high reach bet. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-203/

Shoot, sorry - I wasn't being very observant. They do have a kit for later S30's, but unfortunately it's only compatible up to '77. Something about Nissan changing to a 10 pin connector by '78 (of course), and the upgrade harness is for a 9 pin connector... Here's the link, anyways: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4653 You could call MSA to see if there's anything that could be done - it might be worth a try. Otherwise, happy hunting for the problem!

I blew about a dozen fuses and damn near burned a hole through the fuse box before I got this upgrade harness from MSA: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic10l/12-4652 Haven't had any problems since, and the lights are a good bit brighter. I was too lazy to find the problem and fix it myself 🙃 ...

I'd say you'd be better off making them yourself as it's not too hard if you've got the right tools and some old lines to copy, which you do. You'll save some money doing it yourself, too. From my understanding, there are prefabricated kits though if you wanted to go that route. Also the lines are 3/16 with 10x1.00 fittings, but it's a double flare - I don't know if inverted flare and double flare are the same. You can get a flaring and bending tool at your local autoparts store, but get good tools as they'll make your job a lot easier. For a flaring tool, I highly highly recommend this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ttn-51535 I used one of those generic kits when I first did some brakelines and wound up making a bunch of crumby flares after hours of cussing and frustration. Got that tool and made perfect flares in no time, every time. Plus, you can flare lines while under the car if something goes awry! For the price, it's far and away the best tool you'll find. But don't just take my word for it: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/65362-brakeline-question/?&page=2#comments I got mine at an O' Reilly I think, but you could get it online if nothing else.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4JVwqu8dgo&t=343s&ab_channel=LivingWithAClassic and https://zcarguide.com/tuning-adjusting-datsun-240z-su-carburetors/ The video and guide are how I learned. I was running in circles for a while on my first tune, then everything kinda clicked.

Might be the carbs - have you tuned them? They might not be balanced, or the mixture could be off. I had similar issues, and a good tune helped a lot. Though I never had sputters from hills and hills alone - it was more a rpm/throttle input thing in general. My mixture was off, I reckon. Sputters are much rarer now that I've gotten things pretty dialed in.

I used a hammer and a wrench - a bit more primitive.

On top of everyone's useful information, once you've got the car on jack stands - give the car a nice hard shake on all four corners before you go under if you wanna be safe. Worst case, the car falls down with a crash, but that's better than dying or being in a wheelchair! On top of that, throw the wheels down under the car if you've got them off to be extra safe. And, to answer one of your questions, the switch for the reverse lights mount to the transmission, but I don't know why someone would put the transmission fluid in there since there's a fill plug. Maybe you could do that if the fill plug just won't come off...? At any rate, the fill plug is on the upper half of the transmission, if I remember correctly - though, I have a 4-speed 240 transmission so it could be different.

How much was it after shipping, if you don't mind my asking?

They do look like some quality reproductions. However, the company is based in Vietnam and they don't have their prices listed on the website. I'm not sure then if it would be cheaper in the end to buy an OEM bumper or one from this company after shipping costs and all that. It'd be nice to hear from someone who's bought from the company before. My plan was to keep and eye out for a bumper at a reasonable price on something like Ebay or Craigslist so I can keep my original intact.

@DC871F I agree - the Monte Carlo bumper lends such a nice look to the Z. Shoot me a PM - I'd love to come help you put it all together, and it'd be a good way to prepare myself for making my own. Plus, I'd finally get to meet another Z enthusiast in person! I live about an hour out of Jacksonville.

I've found it's fun to try and find very similar 240's (same year, condition, and, ideally, colour as well) and look at their trends in relation to one another over the past few years, then to compare those to another z. Like, how's a '71 price been going compared to a '72 - both in good, but not excellent condition?

I read somewhere (before the reveal), that down the line there ought to be both a Nismo 'Z', and a 'Z' that comes in "heritage" colours, which I imagine will harken back to the 240. The colour options the article says the 'Z' will come in are, in my opinion, a strange choice by Nissan. They just seem too restrictive. Want a red or blue car? Hope you like a black roof. Otherwise, take this deep, muted red colour. P.S. It'll be hard for me to call this z the 'Z'. Maybe 'the new Z', but not just z.

Yeah, I agree. They didn't even pop the hood! Right when they started giving us some specifics, they said goodbye and thanks. I was prepared for it to go a lot longer. Besides, they didn't reveal too much that wasn't know already known, more just confirmed things. Oh well, seems to be a pretty neat car all the same. Wish the whole instrument cluster was analog, but the voltage, boost and temp. (I think were the three) are better than nothing. Maybe that'll be a dealer option.