Dolfinz

So I've been searching for rear strut tower covers for a few months and have yet to find anything of quality or worth the money. Vinyl will not do. I'm looking for black to match my new carpet set. Any suggestions?

Sorry all been traveling for work and just catching up. Can anyone provide me with a clear way to verify that the additional current drain with the VR and alternator disconnected isn't in the engine harness prior to reaching the fuse box and terminal block?

This is a constant current drain that fluctuates when the key is off.

With the VR and alternator disconnected I still have a fluctuating draw of 200-500mA. If I disconnect either fusible link the current draw goes away. I am trying to determine what/where an issue could be that is still causing this additional current draw. We have already determined that the draw in excess of 3A is due to the faulty VR; which is why I am leaving the VR and alternator disconnected and am now focusing on this additional draw. If I remember correctly from troubleshooting a different issue the current path starts at the battery then goes to starter then to FL1 to shunt to FL2 to? Can't remember the rest of the path before it gets to the VR. It would appear the draw is somewhere between the starter and the VR.

I'm using the 10A scale on my DVM to measure the current. With VR and alternator disconnected the draw is fluctuating from 200mA to 500mA. If I disconnect either fusible link it goes away. If there is a partial short in the harness I'll need to identify an approximate location such as between alternator and VR or fusible link and starter or something like that.

If I disconnect either of the fusible links the current draw goes away

If I disconnect the VR, alternator is still disconnected, I still have the fluctuating current draw

I disconnected the alternator completely and the current draw actually varies between 250 and 400mA. Not sure why it would be fluctuating. Seems like their might be something else responsible for a current draw as well?

With the 2 pin connector disconnected the current draw is around 250mA

So then the VR is bad? I'm guessing then that it should click when it's plugged in thus removing any current to the alternator unless the key gets turned on causing the relay to change states?

Belay my last, I forgot to hook up the battery. With the battery connected there is 12vdc at the F terminal with everything connected. If I remove the wht/blk wire the voltage is only on that wire and not the F terminal.

With everything connected there is no voltage to ground on the F terminal of the alternator.

I checked from A on the alternator to ground and there was no continuity with the VR plugged in and the wht/red wire disconnected. I'm confused about the VR test. Is this performed with the VR plugged in? Am I checking for voltage from the yellow wire to ground? What do you mean by 'You can even check resistance through the pins of the VR.' Check resistance on which terminals? In my previous post I was asking if the positive feed from the VR is then fed to all other wiring and the fuse box? As Zed mentioned in his last post couldn't there be a short to ground in the wiring after the VR that is causing the drain? Is there a way I can verify that this isn't the real issue and not the VR? If we still conclude the VR is the issue then Stevej please PM me and we can arrange to get it shipped.

Sorry for the delayed response, I was traveling for work. So, it appears that you're saying the VR is bad, or at least suspect as the current draw is considerably higher 3-3.5A with it connected versus not connected .25-.5A. I don't remember where I bought it and there's no info on it regarding manufacturer or part number. Can anyone recommend a place I can buy a replacement that is reputable and should provide me with a known good VR? I'd like to get beyond this issue and get the car running again. Just to confirm, the feed to all other wiring and the fuse box is fed from the VR correct?

So is the consensus that my VR is bad or what? Considering it doesn't click when plugged in I wouldn't think so. Please advise next steps.

So, with the battery connected, the white wire from the alternator disconnected and the VR plugged in I have 12vdc on the white/black at the alternator. Also, there was no click when I connected the VR with the battery connected. Next?

I can't measure the wires at the VR as I'm using a multimeter and don't have a DC clamp ammeter. The VR is mechanical and pictures are attached. I didn't see any type of adjustment. Not sure why we are focusing on the VR can you elaborate?

The voltage regulator is new. I disconnected it and the current draw dropped to around .4A. I then disconnected the alternator with the voltage regulator connected and the current draw was still around 3A. Not sure if it helps but when I first connect the meter the current draw starts around 6A and then gradually settles down to around 3A but it's not steady.

After replacing a couple of batteries I decided to check for a current drain and sure enough I have a 2.5A drain on the battery without the ignition on. I tried disconnecting the shunt and no drain. I then disconnected the fusible links one at a time and no drain with either disconnected. I'm looking for next steps so I don't miss anything along the way.

Terrapinz, I may get back to you on this if mine doesn't work. I tried using super glue and it seems to have worked. I'll know when I go to mount it.

Does anyone happen to have a spare plastic mount for the rear view mirror? I was cleaning mine and it snapped in half in my hand. I've looked on line but they are outrageously priced. I'm willing to pay for it if the price is reasonable and it's in decent shape. I have the metal piece and the screws so just the the plastic piece. Let me know, thanks.

Where in the service manual is the removal instructions for the fuel gauge/tank sender?

You were right. I got out my tap and die set and sure enough it's 8 x 1.25. The top of the thread was damaged so I had to retap it. Thanks.

I'm not sure that's correct. The one I ordered came with an 8mm brass insert and it's too small. Could it vary by manufacture date or something?

Does anyone happen to know the thread size on the gear shift lever for the gear shift knob?