zcar70

BUY IT. Then if you don't want to do the refresh, sell it to someone here that will. It's a series one for a grand!!! :bulb:

I am running the stock coil with the resistor and the tach works fine......

Mike, feel free to email me at zcarnut@hotmail.com or PM me and I will be happy to send you our 2010 activities calendar. We have a ton of Z things going on this year, highlighted by our All Japanese Classic Car Weekend, July 9-11, 2010. Activites for the weekend include a Friday night FREE kickoff party, Saturday All Japanese Car Show (with special surprises!), Saturday evening dinner, Sunday Road Rally to Watkins Glen for laps around the track and lunch in the clubhouse. Talk to you soon!

Welcome back to the Z family! Looks like a solid 280 you've got there, especially for this part of the world! This is a great forum for advice and answers to questions. I suggest you take some time to surf around the threads, you will get hooked and learn a lot for sure. Take the time to check out our club in Rochester: www.zccr.net We'd love to meet you in person! Z on......

I've used the battery tender on my 350Z since Dec. of 2002 when I got the car. We also get tons of snow here in western NY so my Zs sit from November to April every winter. The 350Z still has the original battery and I have never had an issue. Holds a charge like new and starts right up every spring. I don't use the tender on my 240, I remove the battery and bring it inside every winter. The 350's computer requires power or it sends out a fault code after 72 hours which needs to be reset at a dealer, thus using the battery tender. This is my eighth season using the Battery Tender, no issues whatsoever. Perhaps your battery has a dead cell?

Yes, I picked up one when I restored my 240Z. I was impressed with the quality of it. It was of some help when we reassembled the car, but for the most part the Z had pretty much plug-n-play wiring. Good reference to have though.

Just once did my 240 fail me. Back in the late 1970s the small, curved manifold coolant hose split and sprayed coolant directly onto the distributor, got under the cap and that was that. Lots of you have mentioned points problems. I was NEVER a big fan of points on my 240Z and switched to a Petronix setup a few years ago. What a difference! Smoother idle, smoother rpms, no maintenance.

The Z Car Club of Rochester is pleased to present the “All Japanese Classic Car Weekend” Friday July 9 to Sunday July 11, 2010 Schedule of events: Friday July 9: Kickoff party for all participants. Refreshments provided. Saturday July 10: The 3rd Annual "Jonathan Krenzer Memorial All Japanese Car Show" * Every make of Japanese car represented, from vintage to modern, bone stock to wild customs. Hundreds on display! * Multi-class awards, Best Engine, Best Interior, Best Paint, Best of Show, participant judging. * Several historic early Datsuns on display (see Newz Flash below!) * Merchandise and 50/50 raffles throughout the day. * Food, music, prizes! * Saturday evening on-your-own dinner at a local establishment of fine food and drink to relive the events of the day. Sunday July 11: Road Rally to Watkins Glen * Meet for a light breakfast then take a scenic road rally through the twisty roads of New York’s Finger Lakes region to Watkins Glen International Raceway. * Enjoy “warm laps” in YOUR car at the Glen! Experience the one of a kind twists, turns and elevation changes of the historic racetrack. * Get a special look at the racing action from the exclusive clubhouse roof viewing area. * Enjoy a catered lunch in the Watkins Glen Clubhouse. NEWZ FLASH!! In addition to the recently re-discovered 240Z HLS30-00013 (the first North American commercially available 240Z), ZCCR will have 240Z HLS30-00006 (the first North American car show 240Z that became the first BSR #33 240Z race car) on display at our "All Japanese Classic Car Show" on July 10! Also on display will be Barry Brown's custom 1970 Datsun 510 with the original Cannonball Run Challenger drivetrain AND his 1976 Datsun 620 pickup modified to run at the Bonneville Salt Flats. AND, we are also in discussion to have 240Z HLS30-00008 on display as well! You won't get the chance to see all of these historic Datsuns in one place anywhere else OR likely ever again! Make plans now to join us the weekend of July 9-11. Full details about the event including pre-registration and accommodations information will be posted on our website soon at www.zccr.net . Watch for it! We hope to see you there!

What year bumpers are you looking for? Based on your comments, I would guess 70-72 240Z bumpers..... As far as I know, all S30 bumpers are NLA from Nissan. There are aftermarket suppliers that make 19741/2 to 1978 260/280 bumpers, check MSA or Black Dragon. An option would be to find straight (good luck!) 70-72 bumpers and have them rechromed. It's expensive however and finding the "bumperettes" and rubber strips is difficult. There is a seller on ebay right now selling brand new 70-72 240Z bumpers in polished stainless steel for a cool $1150. At least you wouldn't have to worry about rust!

I was fortunate to have Mr. K himself autograph my 240's glovebox door with a silver Sharpie marker. I then clear coated the door with acrylic spray to preserve the signature. It looks great, is permanent and does not make the door appear any different from the rest of the dash. The silver Sharpie can also be used in other areas such as the choke plate to restore the factory finish. Be aware that if it is not clear coated, it will eventually wear off.

No difference other than the emblem. Subtle changes in the gauges as well, but you can swap your originals.

Body shop alone (stripping shell to bare metal, metal work, prep, bodywork, prime, paint, rub) took about 9 months. The entire restoration including initial disassembly and reassembly took 2 years. It can vary greatly depending on the quality of work and cost.

Snarty, nice job! Keep going, your Z will look great! Your pics are very reminiscent of my own 2 year restoration of my 240Z, especially the hours sitting in the engine bay sanding down to bare metal. The Z Car Club of Rochester would love to have you join us for our BIG Z weekend in July. See the details here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36595 Also, check out my restoration pics in the gallery of ZCCR's website at www.zccr.net. Enjoy your process, it will be most rewarding! Good luck!

GREAT pics Kats, Thank you! How many Z432-Rs were built?

Good question. The truth is that electrolysis DOES happen between the cylinder head and the block over time IF there is contact. A good quality gasket (modern gaskets are SO much better than the originals) will prevent the process from initiating, but if there is a compromise of the gasket it does happen. Hopefully by then you would replace the gasket anyway.

You had better check the VIN number on the firewall, this car sure looks like a series two to me. Why would someone replace the vented hatch and install different quarter emblems where the mounting holes wouldn't match up? Unless there was rear end damage necessitating new quarter panels and hatch. I would check all four VIN numbers just to be sure.

Hard to really tell with the mods going on in there, but here's an educated guess: 1. Fuel return line 2. Fuel vapor evap. line (from rear canister) 3. Fuel supply line 4. Positive battery cable/solenoid switch/should be fusible link! 5. Brake master vac vacumn line (should be check valve also!) 6. Manifold tap for #5 7. Fuel pump relay?? Might not be exact, but I'm sure someone here will point that out! Good Luck!

I was surfing on jdm-car-parts.com (a very interesting site by the way) and there is a blog about the extremely rare Z432-R. Here is a bit of the blog quoted: "I believe that Z432R cars are the rarest and the most valuable Z cars in the world. It is well known fact that these cars, as well as all Z432 cars, came with S20 engines, but I would like to focus more on other details here. Originally it came with lighter body parts (thinner fenders, doors, and fiber glass hood, plastic side glasses hatch glass, and so on. It was as ordered car only for people in racing business. Front and rear bumper never came standard, and there was no glove box, no clock, no heater panel nor heater, no center console, no steering column cover, no ignition switch at the colum(at center tunnel), no arm rests (just a very loose pull handles ) on the doors. There was also no spare tire bucket in the back (flat floor). They came with special racing bucket seats, and some came with special steering wheel known as “Mach” steering wheel. They came in different designs and made bu few different companies. Approximately 20 some cars were sold to public, but exact numbers are unknown. Each Z432 came in different spec. as far as carbs, transmissions, rear end, and so forth." Anyone ever seen one of these race version early Z-Car? Must be incredibly rare and valuable today! Any in the US?

Here's one for sale on ebay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400095804101&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I would try "Goo Off" to remove the over spray. Test it first on a covered part to make sure it doesn't damage the vinyl. I have heard that WD40 works as well. 280Z emblems are all over eBay as well as Motorsport Auto, Black Dragon, Datsun Restore.com and more. Just search a bit.

Clive, I used double sided 3M tape to secure the panels. With the arm rests, grab handle and window cranks, they are quite secure.

Terrible. My sympathies for sure. From what I can see, she can be fixed. The parts you need are available, you may have to hunt for a bumper a bit. I would take the car home and then let YOUR insurance company do the fighting for you. I hope you have a collector's car policy with a company such as Hagerty. If you have "agreed value" coverage it should be relatively easy. Good luck!

Absolutely AWESOME. You have built a 2010 240Z! Wonderful!

The only difference in the arms is the color. 1970-76 were bare aluminum, 1977-78 were black.