ckurtz2

Here is a video of the slop. IMG-0095.mov

What's your price to do it again, I would be genuinely curious🙃 Anyways, Nissan sucks for making it "unservicable" but so goes it. Sounds like I will be loading up that linkage rod with washers to make it a snugger fit. I am trying to learn how to heel toe, and the slop in the pedal makes it impossible to even start learning:(

Hey guys, Decided to work on some of the smaller projects to make my car drive better. My gas pedal has 1/2 to 3/4 inch of slop in it before it actually starts opening the throttle butterfly valve. I have narrowed it down to two things. First is this circular joint nearest the firewall. It seems like whatever bushing used to be there has completely seperated and now the rod can just freefloat inside with tons of slop. In the photo I am referring to the big circular joint that the main rod rides in. Is there a replacement, and if so how do you do it? Second is where the rod attaches to a secondary rod (don't know their names) with a spring, washer, and cotter pin. Does this look right? I kinda feel like this looks like a hack job. This is the primary reason for the slop. The rod with the "hook" seems to freely move inside of the hole it sits in without putting pressure on the rod it is attached to. Any advice for fixes? I was thinking washers to space it out, a bushing of some sort, or a much stronger spring. Finally I guess that rubber boot for the throttle rod at the firewall is important. Mine doesn't have one so I will replace that. Let me know your advice, as always thank you!

@DatsunZGuy you are the man. I went to Orielly and had them ship in Trico 47-600, Trico 47-700, and 47-800. 47-600 was much to small in width, 47-800 was too large. So if anyone sees this thread in the future and has the 77-78 280z model, keep you blade and just "refill" the rubber with Trico 47-700 wiper refills. I had to just barely bend the claws on the blade, but nothing crazy at all to make it fit. Cost me a whole 9$😃.

Agreed. Never had any leaks or issues if it is BEHIND the fuel pump. I have a video of how little pressure the filter is actually under too. Just have to make sure the filter is made for suction. The clear filter helped me spot that the pickup tube inside the fuel tank had a hole in it. I could see bubbles collecting in the fuel filter instead of a laminar flow of gasoline. Would have been nearly impossible for my novice self to figure out without that hint.

Ok, so I read through this whole forum and it sure seems like you have a disaster on your hands. I myself was in your position a few years ago and it honestly took up to a few months ago to really figure these EFI systems out. They are primitive, annoying, but man once you have toiled enough it's super easy to diagnose and fix. I will do my best here to help you, but often times these problems will just take persistence and time to figure out. Even the smallest hiccup in these systems can make the whole system seem like it is failing. I am going to assume your spark is good, and from what is sounds like, it is. Anyways. Make sure the distributor rotor is clean, and please please clean the spark plugs, it actually makes a huge difference. While you are chasing this problem continue to clean them regularly, even new ones can foul quick and can cause all types of poor running/misfires. Don't have the "it's fine" mentality, it will bite you in the arse, it has many times for me. I am not sure if your tank is rusty or not, but I recommend a clear fuel filter before the fuel pump. It will give that extra assurance that rust isn't ruining your fuel pump, as well as you can physically see how the fuel is moving in the system. Now the car runs with the pedal partially pushed. Now from what I have read it doesn't rev, just dies. Now it is possible that it is from running stupid rich, but I count this more than unlikely unless you see black smoke out the tailpipe. Which narrows things down a little bit. When the pedal is partially pushed, the engine vacuum is more centered on the AFM vane, thus opening the vane more (electrically sending a signal to add more fuel) thus making your engine run, however it sounds like it is running stupid lean if it won't rev/ start on it's own. My advice would to get a buddy to help you and get the car running. Now attempt to rev the car, but when you push the pedal further, and the same time have your friend push the AFM sweeper more (or completely) rich, This will allow the injectors to open more and rev. Another way (I did this, but wouldn't recommend) is to just loosen the AFM till its almost completely loose. This will allow it to significantly richen under throttle, but of course the motor still won't run right. Just kinda hints at the fact that the motor is running lean, injectors work, fuel system is fine, etc, if the engine revs with some help. Then we can do some real diagnosis. In my opinion this is what I would do. #1 I know it sucks, but either clean every single electrical connection in the engine bay, or replace it entirely. This may help you in the future for quick disconnecting electrical connections with quick disconnects. #2 do the test I mentioned. #3 I know you said your vacuum seemed fine at 15in/hg (which is low by the way) or so, but I really feel like this is the classic case of the elusive vacuum leak. My motor had your exact symptoms and it turned out to be a series of vacuum leaks. There are a lot of other possibilities, but I want you to focus on these things first. Judging by how old the motor looks, a vacuum leak wouldn't surprise me. I am no official mechanic, but I hope this helps. I don't think your issue is going to be anything crazy or out of the box.

Are you able to confirm this? I dug further and of course 77-78z cars have different wiper blades then the rest. Interesting those inserts are break to fit, but if it fits then no complaints there. Thank you

Hey guys, I have a 1977 280z coupe that I have been driving without windshield wipers for quite some time now. Bit me in the arse this weekend when I was driving pretty hard on some canyon roads and then a torrential downpour occured😎Needless to say the hazards came on haha. Anyways I have the old blades sitting here with me, but I can't find a proper replacement, as there are so many options of uglier modern ones. Can anyone tell me what type of blades I have and if I should keep them, do a wiper refill, or if I should swap to something else. Problem is I have no idea where, or what size refill I would need. These look like they are also possibly missing the end clips but im not positive. Here are photos of what I have. Thank you!

I currently am running a stage 1 comp cam in my Z with a full exhaust on stock EFI. First thing to note, it is absolutely worth it as there is a significant change in the power band. However, it was the biggest PITA as I had no idea what I was doing at first, as adding a cam by itself will make bone stock EFI run like crap. Second thing to note is that having an adjustable FPR is a must. It adds just a slight advantage in tuneability to the stock efi. A cam means less vacuum at idle, which the way the stock FPR is set up means it will be higher fuel pressure which isn't fantastic for how your car with idle. I also had to "tune" the EFI by tweaking the AFM, fuel pressure, TPS, and running non ported manifold vacuum to the distributor at idle. Thus the engine timing is fully advanced at idle, and then the mechanical advance swings in under throttle. Because I tweaked the EFI unfortunately I sacrificed how well it runs at cold start(too rich), but once it is up to temp it drives great. In time I will find a way to fix the cold start. In short yes you can cam stock EFI, however, it isn't just a plug and play swap.

@zKars This clears up a lot of confusion, and makes me feel confident I bought the right products for the plastic. In regards to the vinyl, do I need to buy the SEM vinyl prep, or can I just use their plastic prep? Otherwise, you answered all my questions:) Thanks

If this turns out to be true, that will be amazing. I can't thank you enough!

View Advert 1977 280z Power Antenna Mast Looking for a replacement antenna mast for my 1977 datsun 280z. My original one had a bad nylon string that I was intending to replace, but upon further inspection was stuck due to the metal mast being bent. I cannot find a mast anywhere so if you have an extra you want to sell that would be amazing. I would also consider buying an entire power antenna assembly if the price was resonable. Thanks! Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 12/07/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

Were you ever able to find one? I need one as well.

Doing lots of research. My mast is in fact bent:( Seems like there are no replacement masts out there anymore for these cars. Does anyone have a mast they would part ways with? Otherwise, it seems like I would have to just buy and wire in a new AM unit. Good condition used ones are just too much $ for an antenna.

Back again. This time on working on the power antenna. It used to work perfectly until a friend pushed it down while it was up:( So motor and internals are solid. I knew it probably messed up the old nylon wire inside, and it in fact did. As you can see from the photo it got all mushed and is no longer straight, as well as it came off the track inside the motor. Anyways, two questions, How do I remove the nylon cable from the mast itself? It seems like it is stuck in there good. I see the brass end peice, but for the life of me I can't remove it, only spin it. Is it crimped on where those dimples are? wondering if I should drill those areas out, as I don't see any other option to remove the dimples. In addition, how far is that top portion supposed to extend. I put a green arrow pointing two the joint, and it seems stuck there. I can see a slight crimp in the metal like it possible bent, but I am not positive. Every part of the antenna moves up and down except this section. If its bent am I pretty much screwed? I would have no idea where I could get a replacement mast for this. Need some antenna experts here:) Thanks

@DatsunZGuy Did you put the epoxy and screen over the whole panel. or just the areas that had cracked?

Hey guys, I am repairing the interior trim on my 280z and I wanted your advice on what I should do. I have read forums everywhere, and it seems like everyone has a little bit of a different method. My panels aren't terrible, but definetly need some structural work. I took some photos of the cracks, but there are a lot more. I was wondering if I should just tack glue things back together with superglue then put plastic epoxy over the back? Others say they add a little bit of fiberglass too? I could do that, but would I need epoxy resin for that too instead of the plastic epoxy. In addition, how would you repair those cracked holes where the pop clips should go through. The thing I am most confused about though is how to paint them with SEM products. I bought the SEM plastic adhesion promoter, and plastic/leather prep, and then a white colorcoat. I have now read there is a product called SEM sand free that people also use to prep the plastic? I am confused as to if I should use the sand free or adhesion promoter. If there are any SEM masters in here please share the best way to go about this, I really want to get this right the first time and never have to touch these again. I am looking for the original plastic texture to look the same. I provided some photos of the affected areas. Thank you!

I often find it hard to find the more classic style carpets, usually I can only find cutpile. Newark Auto offers the 80/20 loop which I have heard matches stock carpets a lot better. Here is a link to the coupe, but I would send an email or surf their website further for the 2+2. https://newark-auto.com/products/f24a-11-nissan-260z

@dutchzcarguy I think this will be the route I will go. I probably will fabricate my own peice, but if I ever find original then I will go back.

Looks a lot better. How much do you want for it shipped?

@zKars Do any of those scratches/marks on it come off with a simple cleaning? Otherwise, I think it will do as long as it is not cracked. I am preferably looking for one with less marks on it, but this is definetly a contender.

View Advert 280z Split Moon Roof light cover Looking for a very uncommon part on my 77 280z. I am looking for the plastic fixture that covers the lights on Z cars with the dealer installed moon rooves. Even if you have an idea of where a parts car would be, or a friend of a friend you might know that has one please let me know! I am also looking for one of the light fixture mounts and sockets. I am missing the one that is closest to the windshield. Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 11/23/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

View Advert 1977 280z Fuse Block Cover Looking for the fuse block cover on a 1977 Datsun 280z. I think 77 and 78 model years had them. I just need the cover in good condition, not the whole fuse block. Part Number 25420-N4700 Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 11/23/2022 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

Well that is precisely what I am looking for, thank you!!! I didn't even know that auction website exists. Now I do:) How odd that my car was supposed to come with two lights. I now think that someone in the past removed the light fixture trim peice, then removed that forward bulb and mounting bracket. Otherwise, it's pretty hard for something like that to disappear not on purpose. Well now the scavenger hunt begins😎. Has anyone seen any parts cars anywhere lately with the split moon roofs? Looks like I am on the hunt for the bulb mounting bracket, and the fixture.

@DatsunZGuy Completely agree hah, this will likely be the route I go if no one is able to show me how it was "originally" supposed to look. Probably, will go LED too:) If anyone has any insight into the original design do share!