ckurtz2

Thanks, love your ride too! Definitely seems to be a survivor. I also have the same undercoating on my car that saved it from rust. Good stuff Anyways I have noticed two things on my car besides all the shields and stuff that help show its a CA car. One bein that floor temp light, and two an emissions control sticker mentioning the catalytic converter. I am going to make the assumption that your car was a regular federal type coupe. Here are photos of what I am talking about

Not sure if this helps, but this is all I got for where it could possibly go on an exhaust. This was for a California emissions car.

I also could be wrong, but if it is a factory California emissions car, there should be a floor temp light in the center dash area next to the vents. It was used to indicate if your cat was getting too hot. Not sure if regular federal cars had this too.

Hoping I can help. I have a California emissions 280z. Pulled off the exhaust a while back, because I don't need a cat in AZ:) Anyways the entire exhaust assembly is sitting in the backyard of my dad's house collecting rust. Used to be in good condition, now might have some surface rust, figured no one would want a CA emissions exhaust. Anyhow, which shield are you talking about? The one that protects the driveshaft from the cat? Or there is a shield that is clamped to the cat itself to help protect the car. Hoping I still have that somewhere in case that is what you need/want. Lucky I still have this photo. Took it, because I thought it was cool that the entire exhaust system could be removed in one piece. Notice the heat shield that clamps over the cat itself. Here is a photo of the shield that protects the driveshaft from the cat. Notice my cat is now removed so...

View Advert 280z Bumpers with Overrider Bars Bumpers from a 1977 Datsun 280Z. They are in pretty good condition. You will need new rear side rubbers. Some scuffing, but I think all of it could be cleaned up pretty easy. I am switching my car to 240z bumpers so I have no use for them. Includes front and rear bumpers with over rider bars front and rear bumper shock absorbers front bumper valence rear bumper valence I would like to see them go to good use and not the alley! Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 01/29/2022 Price $250 Category Parts for Sale

Man, just seeing these old replies. I got a nice set that just needed some rubbers. My car exterior has some heavy weathering so I thought some slightly weathered bumpers would work well for now. When the time comes for paint and such I will probably either rechrome them, or buy some fancy ones like you recommend @siteunseen Thanks for the replies!

Man who stains a white on black:( The black ones are so easy to find. Anyways, I didn't realize that the adverts had a discussion ability, bummer I missed this. I will let you know if I decide to go this route!

Thanks guys for the replies! I didn't realize that the adds had discussions. Bummer I missed all these! I ended up finding a small place in Australia I had to get them from.

Thanks, guys! I took both of your advice and contacted some local glass shops. I should be all set now. Unfortunately, I am clumsy and dropped one which broke, but shouldn't be a big deal. I am going to make a separate post in the future overgoing the rebuild for anyone else who may run into the same questions I had.

Think they can replace the glass? I removed it from the housing by boiling the panel in water melting the glue. Thanks for the advice!

Hey Guys! I have some sport mirrors for a 280z where the glass/lense is is pretty rough condition. Do you know if glass this bad around the edges is able to be cleaned up? If not do you know where to get replacement glass? I feel like buying original new sport mirrors is a little on the unnecessary side due to cost, and that I already have good bodies. The aftermarket plastic ones don't interest me that much either. Just trying to find a way to clean these guys up! Thanks in advance Here is a photo

View Advert 240z Style Bumpers Looking for 240z style bumpers in at least restorable condition. If it has the bumperettes that would be preferred, but not necessary. Looking to install on a 1977 280z. Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 11/22/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240z

Thanks guys, I'll take a peek at those threads👍

There you have it! Thanks Chuck for the kind words, didn't realize you were on this forum🙂 You all have been a great deal of help. Can't wait to rip the Z around town!

Honestly, I don't know, I will have to ask. However, I think their final conclusion was that the injectors were undersized for the car.

Time to settle this thread Forever! After about a year of tinkering with a very sick motor, and doing everything per the FSM manual to no luck, I gave up and sent my Z to a doctor to be fixed. The shop I took it to was Sakura Garage in Phoenix, Arizona and I highly recommend their work, as they are some of the most knowledgeable Z car enthusiasts I have ever met. Anyways, they decided something was up and hooked up the car with an AFR Gauge. With the car idling I think they said it was running somewhere along the lines of 24:1 being on the extreme lean side. So they turned my little potentiometer to control the fuel to full rich and could only bring it down to 20:1 (should be around 13-14:1 I believe). So they went through the entire EFI FSM and found absolutely nothing wrong with the car. They wondered if it was the injectors so they did full spray tests into graduated cylinders for fuel flow, consistency, and volume, and it looked totally fine. Swapped in a different ECU, still no luck! With fuel pressure solid, and literally every other option exhausted, they decided on a whim to just toss on a new set of injectors anyways and....... my motor purred like a kitten. Now they still don't know what exactly is wrong with the old injectors as they are what came with the car, OEM, and I had them rebuilt as one of the first things I did to the car when I bought the car. However, when I bought the car, (completely original) I remember the only thing disconnected were the fuel injectors. So my guess is that these injectors were the culprit to why the car was parked back in 1991. Anyways, glad its settled, figured I'd share this with the community in case anyone ever has a problem like I did. thanks @siteunseen, @Zed Head, @Captain Obvious, and anyone else for helping me a while back when I started this thread!

Hey guys! Just a theoretical question here. I can't find really anything online about z owners who are running the 260s comp cam on their L28e or Z for the matter. So I figured I'd ask if anyone has, or knows anyone who has, used this cam on their Z. Does it make any noticeable difference in hp or torque? Is it able to be used with a stock 280z EFI system? Would you recommend it for someone trying to find just a slight bump in power? Really just trying to start a conversation of what your thoughts are about this cam. Here is a link to the cam I am talking about. https://zcardepot.com/products/performance-camshaft-comp-racing-cam-240z-260z-280z

View Advert L28 .160 lash pads Hey guys, looking for .160 lash pads to go on an L28 motor. The ones that have ears to keep the rocker arm in place. I am also interested in used parts Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 11/02/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

View Advert 280z Uncracked Dash Hey guys, If you have a good condition uncracked dash let me know! I am looking to replace my destroyed dash on my 1977 280z. Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 09/03/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

This intrigued me, as an issue I wasn't aware of, so I did some digging and came across this link. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/plugs/index.html Inside the ink I found this: Historical Z Plugs so, I believe I am running the wrong plugs. Which is weird, because AutoZone recommended the NGK-BPR5EGP which is a hotter plug. Do you think it would be worth it to switch to the B6ES-11? I wonder if for some odd reason these plugs make the car unhappy. @dutchzcarguy thank you for the great catch. @AK260 Interesting, I will take a look at those resistance tests when I get home. The miss Is rhythmical at times in the sense that I can watch the RPM gauge bounce. However, when the gauge isn't bouncing and the engine is still missing, it seems random, as there are just distinct muffled gurgles out the exhaust with constant engine bucking. Regarding vacuum, it reads perfect, as I did all the tests and corrected issues in a previous forum post. Lots of new rubber everywhere.

Haha, me two. First time I started it, I mixed it up and it wouldn't start. Went for the starting fluid😞 Sounded like a 12 gauge it backfired so bad🙂 Kinda cool, kinda terrifying. Equally stupid Anyways. For ignition I am running a Petronix Flamethrower 2 0.6ohm coil. I am running a stock distributor, but I just had it sent off to Advanced Distributors in Minnesota to be rebuilt and recurved. It looked pretty crummy inside, and I don't trust remanned units due to reports of inconsistencies. I am still using the factory ICM, ballast resistor, etc. I did clean the thermo sensor before I put the motor together. However, the engine doesn't seem to be affected with it connected or not, so I just leave it unconnected living in Arizona. All the bullet connectors are solid. I wired in the resistor for the WTS so I can adjust how rich the motor runs. No matter how rich she still likes to buck. All makes me think it is ignition. I also pulled apart the Ignition Control Module. It had oxidation and rust spots on the outside. The circuit board looks brand new inside, so I just let that be. Wish I could run it and see if moving the wires caused problems, or if it arced in the dark. Running out of things to look at, but those new wires going bad must mean something.

Hey Guys, I battled a number fuel injection issues in a previous forum. With that system running right, I now have narrowed down the stumbling idle to something ignition related. The car takes a few seconds to start up, but when it roars to life it holds an idle. However, you can hear a clear miss, and the motor will buck around. I also want to note that I can free rev the car and it seems to smooth out at higher RPM. My first question is about the spark plug wires that I came across. These are/were brand new NGK wires from Zcardepot I installed last winter. The car has probably seen about 30 minutes of idling/revving in a garage since then, while battling injection issues. It seems as if the sealer around the wires has overheated and separated at the boot. What could this be caused by and why? Would this cause arcing around the engine? spark plugs don't look fouled. NGK-BPR5EGP I attached photos of 3 wires that seemed to have gone bad, and 1 photo of a wire that still seems to be in good shape.

Hey guys long time no see, I was absorbed in a full suspension rebuild, so this thread got put on the backburner. Since I have last posted, I had zcarsource replace my pickup tube inside my gas tank. They did a great job, and it fixed the fuel flow/air bubbles problem. Now I can free rev the car easily up to 7k rpm and the car runs much better. However, I still have a problem with how smooth the motor runs. At idle it still bucks and jerks like it has a misfire and with the exhaust off the misfire is clearly audible. I can notice the engine bucking till about 3000 rpm, to where the motor seems to run smooth. Now as a last ditch effort to see if it was still fuel, I pinched the return line to see if it would smooth out. All that happened was the idle ran higher (with fuel leaks beginning to sprout), but still had the consistent stumble, so I doubt fuel pressure is an issue. I also want to note that I tested the fuel injection control unit, and all of the FSM tests checked out great. This makes me think it must be spark. However, I have a new distributor cap, spark plugs, coil, spark plug wires, and rotor. So the issue must be more complicated. I was thinking that it possibly could be the distributor? It has a small amount of side by side play, but I gap checked everything and it was almost perfect. So I am wondering if it is the transistor ignition unit on the passenger side kick panel. Does anyone know how to test this. I looked at it, and it looks pretty nasty. What are the signs of one that has gone bad? Tell me what ya'll think.

View Advert 280z Rear Strut Insulator Spacers The Strut Spacers are located between the Strut Mount Insulator and the Spring Seat in the rear of the car and are the counterpart to the front Upper Strut Bearings on 70-78 models I don't care if they are poly or rubber. I am in SOS mode and need to get these asap. Trying to move for college, but need to finish the rear suspension so I can tow the car. This part is holding me up. It is backordered everywhere I called. So if anyone has a spare set, please save me! Advertiser ckurtz2 Date 07/30/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1977 Model 280z

I am going to agree that this is the issue because it was so hard to unclog, and I could have broken it when shoving wire and stuff through. Removing tank as we speak. I will send it off somewhere tommorow. Fingers crossed this ends the EFI nightmare for good. Never knew this was a problem until now, because the flow was much better before I drained the tank today, but still pulsed every once and a while. The difference is I have 8 gallons in the tank now, and I had a full tank before. Likely masked the problem until now.