280zdude
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Everything posted by 280zdude
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At this point I don’t think I was going to anyways lol the whole egr side of the intake is corroded
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This is the camshaft description. I was thinking adding this and possibly a thinner head gasket and go from there.. but it seems like that even then would be too much?
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Im thinking about stage 3 cam with a thinner head gasket.. and maybe flat pistons. But I want to know if the stock efi would be able to handle that
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Hey guys I have a 77 280z and I was wondering what is the highest compression ratio that can be run with the stock efi system? looked online there is a lot of information but nothing specific to the stock efi that I’ve seen.
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Yes to oe configuration. One thing I’ve realized is even if you think you don’t need something on the car.. there’s a reason why they added it in the first place, that one off chance a car doesn’t start may be due to a simple delete of a random water heater line.. don’t see the harm in keeping it.. But if i don’t want it to leak so that’s is why I’ll be tapping it just to make sure I put it on and the car heats up and leaves water marks on a freshly cleaned intake. only time I would delete something is if I go full stand alone, smarter computer basically does what these mechanical parts do. I was debating on that but decided to just stick with og for a while make it run right see if I need more fixed before throwing money at stuff that doesn’t need to be replaced or upgraded right away.
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Thanks I did that. I vacuumed out whatever I could from the top before doing it just to make sure I don’t push rust in than I need to.. I’ll probably use some coolant flush tomorrow. And let it sit in there for about a week or two.. cant really drive it for now.. im doing research on head work and flat top pistons.. I was thinking about going full stroker but the LD28 crank is just no where to be found but in fully built engines.. from rebello racing and shops of that nature. After the flush sits for however long I decide to leave it in maybe watch for a color change.. I’ll take the head off and assess the pistons and the walls.. plan to take the pistons out and honing the walls.. new flat top pistons and rings racing cams Idk anything about this.. but I’ll learn.. no one really talks about where to get these.. machined cams?? Idk and get the head shaved and ported for better flow.. I’ll probably leave the crank alone and just do a diy little polishing there.. Engine management - I read that you need a stand alone system in order or the stock efi does not like the top mods. I’m going to stay EFI unless. There is a really good reason not to. I really want to try to keep the car as stock as possible with decent present day power.. mega squirt/msa pro something like that was the standalone management system.. proper dialed in tune.. let me know if you guys have any suggestions on this stuff. I’m in Southern California so if you have a shop you would recommend or a professional I can get advice from I would appreciate it! with all this I’m guessing the car will run around 200+ hp.. I don’t believe it will be under whelming with the weight of the car. I’m hoping it will be around the same as my 2017 q60 in regards to butt dyno torque in a straight line..
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Thanks zedhead it worked! I really appreciate the help guys! im doing research on why the engine is not going over 2500 rpm.. it seems like the pre pump filter is too big and air is getting into the system from there.. when the car is running the filter looks empty with bubbles.. And the gas coming from the tank is like a little stream like when a siphon is almost empty.. I’m got a knock off microgaurd filter instead of the fram g3 .. but the gas is really clean no rust in the filter for now.. fuel pressure is at 32 psi. Noid light test passed for signal. jugding by the cold start valve I’m guessing the fuel injectors are just as bad. I took each connector off and found green corrosion cleaned all that. played with idle control the engine purse! Super quiet. Fuel pump is loud now at first it wasn’t. I’m guessing it’s the pre pump filter not allowing enough fuel. I also replaced every single one of the fuses. This helped a lot with the electrical, when flipping the switch the interior lights turned on brighter. For the seat belt and what not. Still waiting in the clutch master and slave also. none of the gauges such as oil pressure, voltage, and fuel are working also. But rpm does!
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So I got this far.. did the noid test and the fuel pressure test.. I read your take on the gas coming out of the intake which is happening. I triple checked the timing wires but the ignition on the distributor was in the middle so I moved it to the top position. and all that shine stuff is gas coming out of the intake. yup the cold air valve is stuck open. IMG_8846.MP4
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Hey! Question do you need new holder plates when doing the install?
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Hey guys.. I have fuel pressure now! Good amount. But still not start I have spark, and fuel and air.. could it be injectors? progress the car is making a little backfire puff out off the intake.. nothing like starting fluid it’s a little burst of air.. a fuel of those hose line in the rail were leaking so I tightened them down..
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