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280zdude

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Everything posted by 280zdude

  1. What brand clutch slave and master cylinder are you guys using? should I be making new posts for each topic I am tackling? Let me know if that’s better?
  2. I got the barbs not the filter came out to $114 bucks not bad for being a walbro pump. the rockauto pumps were coming out to about 85-90 bucks with shipping and tax.. but then have a possibility for going bad sooner.. auto parts store was 109 plus tax. bosch was confusing af plus the barb fitting sizes were costly. plus you know it isn’t one of those fake walbro pumps. I believe this is the reason why they started doing it. There were a lot of Chinese knock offs put into the market in the past, for the recent fuel pump models.
  3. I ended up ordering through the walbro website. walbro 393 The other Bosch filters are nice but the walbro sending the fitting with the filter with free shipping and no tax is a peace of mind type expense. I searched hard for bosh but with the expense of needing to add a fuel pressure regulator it didn’t make sense. Plus half of Bosch pumps are in tank not inline. There for if you run it you may over work or over heat the pump itself causing it to malfunction. Thanks for your input guys wouldn’t have found that with out you’re help!
  4. Bosch 69459 OE Electric Fuel Pump 1987-1990 Peugeot 505, 1974 Porsche 911, More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZGHB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ltO6FbGH2FN7F This fuel pump looks like it will work. I looked at a diagram for Porsche 911 and they have the same flow direction. I did read some people using FD RX7 pumps but it gets confusing between fuel injected, suction, gravity fed, psi, and lph. The biggest concern I have is going to high of a flow rate or psi. With so many unknowns on the car I want to keep it close to stock hoping I won’t need to change fuel dampeners or fuel regulators.. The rubber lines leading to the tank and from the filter to the injectors were blocked off.. so who know what rusted and dry rotted in them.
  5. Where did you find the inlet and outlet info for the Bosch. I was trying to find that and just took a guess due to similar shape and size..
  6. The fuel pump search is a head ache I keep changing my mind lol.. there’s a fuel pump Bosch 69100 that pump looks like it would fit well for what I’m looking for. 50gph
  7. Hmm good point I’m going to go with walbro. The brand is well known idc about sound.. just want something that will last..
  8. While I wait for the pump, there is absolutely no clutch pressure in the car. I’ll be starting to diagnose that I’m guessing it’s the master slave or link. if it is the slave what brand do you think is good to replace it with
  9. True, I’m just thinking of getting delphine because autozone carries it. And maybe the other higher pressure pumps if I decide to build the head after it gets running. Do I spend money now get it running spend more later or get nicer parts.. I might just go with Airtex/carter.. with a pre-pump fuel filter fram g3
  10. Doing a lot of research for the 280z fuel pump. any suggestions this is what I found- Walbro 255/ Walbro 393 $$ OEM REMANUFACTURED - but may have to be switched out a couple times before you find one that works well. $$$ Almost any Bosch fuel pump $$ dephine @ the auto parts store $ Carter - Rockauto.com $ MSD - 2225 $$ brand new oem- $$$ Acdelco - unsure of part number complains about the after market is that they are loud. Suggestions to fix this is by using rubber isolators. General consensus is that Bosch is the best flowing compared to the others. Some people say aftermarket is trash. Others have had them for years. Some use them as back ups until they find a good oem or rebuild the one that have. Good amount of people swear by MSD. Only complaint is that it’s loud. did my research on how loud these aftermarket pumps are with the rubber isolators. They are about 70 dbs.. if you mount them straight to the chassis it echos through the metal in the car. Does anyone have any personal suggestions for a fuel pump?
  11. I connected jumper cables to the batter then went under the car and connected the jumper cables to the positive and negative terminals on the pump. There was a little sparking but no sound
  12. Confirmed bad fuel pump connected two jumper cables to the fuel pump to see if it goes off nothing happened fuel pump did not make any sounds. Positive to the bottom terminal and negative to the one on the side. I will order a fuel pump and get back to you guys when I install it. I appreciate everyone’s help!
  13. Yes that’s what I was going to do next.. I’m a little confused by the wiring and how it works. Different forms have different answers to the issue. Anyways I took the s cable off left the battery cable on and flipped the switch did not hear anything. It seems like I have a bad fuel pump.. it actually looks like it’s the original from factory. I tested the cables while the car is turning over and it gets 12 volts. Little fact Idk if people know this but, there are connectors button connectors that are behind the passenger seat which go through a grommet. The colors are (green and blue) and black. Those are the wire that connect to the fuel pump. It gives you easy access to test wiring while inside the car. I’ll be be basically jumping the fuel pump now to see if it works or make any sound. Just in case it does, should I start the car or try to start the car with a possibility of ignition timing and valve timing being off?
  14. Ok so just to make sure the s wire is the smaller wire which connects to the starter correct
  15. Hey zed head Yeah I was going to do that! But I was checking the wiring First and I’m getting like 0 voltage to through the wires
  16. Key is on the on position afm untouched. I will try that. But when the car is on and fuel pump doesn’t make any sound. I will also do the probe suggestion! And let you guys know what I find out
  17. The fuel pump relay does click when you put the car in the on position. How do I check if the voltage coming out of the relay is around 12 volts? Can I tried to unplug the connection between the relay and the green and blue wire in the car but it seems to turn the relay off.
  18. Update on the fuel electrical.. I’m getting .03- .05v to the pump wires. I’m guess it may be a bad ground or relay?
  19. So basically I put starter fluid down the intake and i got huge back fire out of the intake! so I tried it another way and took the spark plugs out and shot some in there.. but the car did not run for a little while it.. kind of turned over quicker? Never used starter fluid But I didn’t spray too much. Couple squirts just wanting to say- someone definitely played with the fuel system it was disconnected and plugged.. Merry Christmas!
  20. Hello so I’m getting spark I used starter fluid and well it looks like I’m getting pressure in the manifold not through exhaust
  21. I can tell you this much it looks like red crystals when you look into the filler pipe. I’m probably going to go to some radiator shop and get it cleaned and coated. Any ideas for efi what should I be looking for in the system? I can’t find a wiring diagram for the fuse box and the cover is missing does anyone have a picture for the 77 model I found the 88 model one but it seems a bit more updated than what the 77 had
  22. Got it! The volts are going through the relay wire now! I’m going to spend the day cleaning all the connections until I get the coil in the mail. If that works I’ll will get started on the fuel system. Rn I don’t believe the fuel pump is working at all. I don’t hear it when I turn the key to on or anything! I’ll do as you suggested. testing the EFI system! I believe the coil will be here with in a week. But it’s Christmas.

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