milligan21

Had to update as I have been reading a lot of posts and the person who posts usually doesnt wrap up what the issue was 😄 so there ya go... Lesson learnt! some added updated progress pics 😄 Nearly there.... uff and yes I blacked out the chrome because no one in Ireland does rechroming 😛

To wrap this up.. I found out my problem! So the injectors were clicking ( all of them ) but they weren't spraying! 4 of the 6 of them were blocked! 😮 Anyway.. problem solved. 😕 So much time wasted with other things.... On another note.. can someone tell me if 280z injectors would work in my car. It being a 2.0 litre EFI engine. Surely its a yes? I think I will just replace all 6 of them. Have been looking at rockauto and they have only 2.8 l ones. I cant find any information about my original injectors. They are yellowy / brown A46-000001 Cheers for all your help 😄 and sure.. I probably should have pulled and checked the injectors at the start but didnt

Yes I checked using a Christmas tree light

Where? On the AFM. While connected and also disconnected. Also through the ECU tests. Alllllllll of the tests I done have checked out and are OK. I also done every pin test on the ECU as per the bible & manuals. When I say I done the tests ... I done them. I done some of them twice to make sure the reading voltage or ohms was correct. I been through the bible and the wiring and I even tested the dual relay off the car and in the car. I swapped the AFM...the ECU the dual relay ( efi one under the dash left side ) also swapped fuel pumps and thermotime switch , water temperature switch. I even got a new ignition switch as the one that came with the car was from a skoda so had to change it. Anyways... that's where I'm at. I have spark , fuel pressure is good and air pressure is also good. It just seems to trip out when the key goes from start to on unless I press the throttle. Simple no? Haha

and also also.. I had a loan of a non molested AFM and another one that I wasnt sure about and NEITHER of them worked .. as in they done the same thing 😄 POX

Also it cant be too tight as I calibrated it as per the AtlanticZ reset of the AFM. The flap is free moving

Yes i see the vane moving as i have the cover off. I got the ohm readings and they check out as they say in the EFI Bible which I have been through twice on both the non start issues and crank and die issues. Everything I tested as per the manual checks out. The AFM is definitely not disconnected as its operating when I crank and also with the pedal pushed it works

If I'm pressing the throttle then no it holds at about 12 - 1400rpm. If I try to start it without the throttle pressed then it fires off the csv > dies > and the tach drops at the same time as its almost like its not firing up the AFM control for the pump ( the 76 safety cut off nonsense ) . But.. that all checks out as I checked ... twice or maybe e times as i thought from start to ok it was cutting the fuel but its not. Obviously pressing the throttle confirms its not that either ( surely );

Also came back to mind today when I was trying to crank it. When it started ( off the CSV & NO throttle pressed ) the rev counter went up to 1500 approx rpm then it just shuts down. Maybe thats something maybe not 🙂

"you need to try opening the big phillips head bypass screw in front of " thats been screwed ahahah both ways everyway and no difference

Ok so… There doesn’t seem to be an air leak as when I done a reading it checked out to be normal or close to what its supposed to be ( I think it was 13 or something ) My CSV idea was just an idea and I wasn’t straying from what you both wrote about. I checked some things like the timing ( as I said already ) at BTDC it was at 20 on the harmonic balancer. I then twisted the distributor by loosening the screw but it made 0 difference. Throttle blade looked relatively clean as I took off the AFM pipe to check.. cleaned it a bit anyway .. but was mostly just black so not gunked up The main problem is that it wont start without the throttle pressed slightly… I noticed today that all the gauges move slightly or to where they should be on key turn EXCEPT the water temp gauge ( also noticed my dash lights are out and also my dip / running light – so maybe I have a broken wire or dodgy connection somewhere) was super cold today and the shed isn’t ideal that kinda weather I wasn’t ignoring your advice far from it.. I was just saying.. would ya look at that 😄 or … this is interesting isn’t it haha I will try prop the throttle open and get it to run and leave it run if I can tomorrow and then maybe I can shake wires and spray stuff to check for leaks etc etc I see your point in having a running engine being easier to diagnose 😊

Well I done and that ..mostly cleaning stuff today. Anyway... what I did try was .. I disconnected the CSV and cranked it... didn't even fire up. Now I'm thinking that maybe my injectors are blocked? The reason being is that if I press the throttle it would force more fuel in and pass the injectors and run a bit. That little bit is only a little bit and won't allow more past the injectors hence why it won't revv up. This is my thinking because surely it should fire a bit if the injectors were firing. The csv makes it fire differently .. so what ye think? 😛

Sound! I have my list for the morning to do 😉 Thanks again

Makes 2 of us 😄 haha I said I was gonna be methodical from the start and track everything I done.. but I didnt obviously. Anyways, I believe while I was away one of the times my dad checked the timing on the cam ( or checked valves - have to ask what he checked but he had that cover off ) I tried most things at this point but tomorrow im going to go check a few things and will report back 😄 I MIGHT run through all the EFI ecu checks again and write down the results so I know where I am at there 😄 Thanks again for the replies .. helps me think where to go next