milligan21

Had to update as I have been reading a lot of posts and the person who posts usually doesnt wrap up what the issue was 😄 so there ya go... Lesson learnt! some added updated progress pics 😄 Nearly there.... uff and yes I blacked out the chrome because no one in Ireland does rechroming 😛

To wrap this up.. I found out my problem! So the injectors were clicking ( all of them ) but they weren't spraying! 4 of the 6 of them were blocked! 😮 Anyway.. problem solved. 😕 So much time wasted with other things.... On another note.. can someone tell me if 280z injectors would work in my car. It being a 2.0 litre EFI engine. Surely its a yes? I think I will just replace all 6 of them. Have been looking at rockauto and they have only 2.8 l ones. I cant find any information about my original injectors. They are yellowy / brown A46-000001 Cheers for all your help 😄 and sure.. I probably should have pulled and checked the injectors at the start but didnt

Yes I checked using a Christmas tree light

Where? On the AFM. While connected and also disconnected. Also through the ECU tests. Alllllllll of the tests I done have checked out and are OK. I also done every pin test on the ECU as per the bible & manuals. When I say I done the tests ... I done them. I done some of them twice to make sure the reading voltage or ohms was correct. I been through the bible and the wiring and I even tested the dual relay off the car and in the car. I swapped the AFM...the ECU the dual relay ( efi one under the dash left side ) also swapped fuel pumps and thermotime switch , water temperature switch. I even got a new ignition switch as the one that came with the car was from a skoda so had to change it. Anyways... that's where I'm at. I have spark , fuel pressure is good and air pressure is also good. It just seems to trip out when the key goes from start to on unless I press the throttle. Simple no? Haha

and also also.. I had a loan of a non molested AFM and another one that I wasnt sure about and NEITHER of them worked .. as in they done the same thing 😄 POX

Also it cant be too tight as I calibrated it as per the AtlanticZ reset of the AFM. The flap is free moving

Yes i see the vane moving as i have the cover off. I got the ohm readings and they check out as they say in the EFI Bible which I have been through twice on both the non start issues and crank and die issues. Everything I tested as per the manual checks out. The AFM is definitely not disconnected as its operating when I crank and also with the pedal pushed it works

If I'm pressing the throttle then no it holds at about 12 - 1400rpm. If I try to start it without the throttle pressed then it fires off the csv > dies > and the tach drops at the same time as its almost like its not firing up the AFM control for the pump ( the 76 safety cut off nonsense ) . But.. that all checks out as I checked ... twice or maybe e times as i thought from start to ok it was cutting the fuel but its not. Obviously pressing the throttle confirms its not that either ( surely );

Also came back to mind today when I was trying to crank it. When it started ( off the CSV & NO throttle pressed ) the rev counter went up to 1500 approx rpm then it just shuts down. Maybe thats something maybe not 🙂

"you need to try opening the big phillips head bypass screw in front of " thats been screwed ahahah both ways everyway and no difference

Ok so… There doesn’t seem to be an air leak as when I done a reading it checked out to be normal or close to what its supposed to be ( I think it was 13 or something ) My CSV idea was just an idea and I wasn’t straying from what you both wrote about. I checked some things like the timing ( as I said already ) at BTDC it was at 20 on the harmonic balancer. I then twisted the distributor by loosening the screw but it made 0 difference. Throttle blade looked relatively clean as I took off the AFM pipe to check.. cleaned it a bit anyway .. but was mostly just black so not gunked up The main problem is that it wont start without the throttle pressed slightly… I noticed today that all the gauges move slightly or to where they should be on key turn EXCEPT the water temp gauge ( also noticed my dash lights are out and also my dip / running light – so maybe I have a broken wire or dodgy connection somewhere) was super cold today and the shed isn’t ideal that kinda weather I wasn’t ignoring your advice far from it.. I was just saying.. would ya look at that 😄 or … this is interesting isn’t it haha I will try prop the throttle open and get it to run and leave it run if I can tomorrow and then maybe I can shake wires and spray stuff to check for leaks etc etc I see your point in having a running engine being easier to diagnose 😊

Well I done and that ..mostly cleaning stuff today. Anyway... what I did try was .. I disconnected the CSV and cranked it... didn't even fire up. Now I'm thinking that maybe my injectors are blocked? The reason being is that if I press the throttle it would force more fuel in and pass the injectors and run a bit. That little bit is only a little bit and won't allow more past the injectors hence why it won't revv up. This is my thinking because surely it should fire a bit if the injectors were firing. The csv makes it fire differently .. so what ye think? 😛

Sound! I have my list for the morning to do 😉 Thanks again

Makes 2 of us 😄 haha I said I was gonna be methodical from the start and track everything I done.. but I didnt obviously. Anyways, I believe while I was away one of the times my dad checked the timing on the cam ( or checked valves - have to ask what he checked but he had that cover off ) I tried most things at this point but tomorrow im going to go check a few things and will report back 😄 I MIGHT run through all the EFI ecu checks again and write down the results so I know where I am at there 😄 Thanks again for the replies .. helps me think where to go next

& sorry yes someone was messing with the AFM but all the checks in the bible check out ohms etc etc and i calibrated it again using the atlanticZ method as I said

Ah ok.. so before i disassemble the throttle ill have a lookie inside it with a mirror thing! The idle speed screw.. I already tried that but will maybe open it more than 10 rotations. When I turn it it makes a clicking noise for some reason so maybe its just turning and not screwing anything... Also to be investigated 😄 so many things to do as well as re assembly , windows rubbers etc. On the windows ( you might know ) do I need to use a glue between the rubber seal on the windscreen and metal of the car or is good enough just pushing it in? 😄

Hmm ok so.. IF the throttle body vane / plate was stuck open it might be feeding too much air in at idle and choking the car out.... might MIGHT be a possibility as the 76 efi system apparently had issues with the valve cover pipe clogging the throttle body up. I was going to check this before but then got sidetracked with fuel and afm and this and that and forgot 😄 So tomorrow i will tear it down and check 😉 Thanks for the reminder 😄

Yes I used piston stop and also checked the rotor in the distributor and then checked the harmonic balancer to see where it was at. Anyway.... I retarded the distributor and it made 0.00 difference 😕

Ehhhh not sure what that is 😄 The bypass screw on the AFM? or the other one on top of the manifold?

Hey again 🙂 I am back to Ireland now and had a day of sanding parts then took some photos of the engine bay 😄Also while I was away I got someone to do a new paint job .. happy out .. now i can reassemble yayy! But.. yes its still not running as it should. What I tried today: turned down the pressure regulator 25psi > done nothing different turned up the pressure on the fuel 40psi > no different. watched the afm opening while i had my foot semi down on the throttle ( could be opening too far? to be investigated ) found TDC on the piston > which on the distributor cap pointed the rotor to spark lead #1 as it should be > checked the harmonic balancer ( it was at 20 - not sure if this is right or not? have to get a timing light tomorrow but if the car needs to be warmed up then i cant check the timing? ) still only runs with my foot a little down on the pedal and will only do so when the TVS is disconnected and wired like in the photo for some bizarre reason. Still no revs and usually cuts out if i push the pedal too much. So thats where I am at.. if you are lookin at the photos and think.. my God what a mess.. yes.. YES it is. But it will be done after I get the engine running in-situ I will pull the engine out & tidy the engine bay and maybeeeee put a manual box on it. Also the FPR is routed that way cause its handy 😄 and yes its the right way ( in and out lines ) I have got a new filter which I will try get on tomorrow but cant see that making any difference? Thanks again guys and I am happy to be back at it 😄I included a shiny white car now and not the grey and white as before haha Also yes I know the EGR pipe isnt connected ( its blocked off for now as the pipe was broken and was so hard to see actually )

Oh ... didn't even see that. In the other photo there is a fuel filter 🙂 old photos is all I have for now. I think the 2.0 and 2.8 are more or less the same just minus 0.8 😛 probably minus a lot more these days hahah I will get updated photos 😉

Well yes maybe I done something but ...as it stands now it kind of goes but not as it should. I will have to examine for leaks or a busted manifold and other things It has a charcoal canister. It's a Nissan Fairlady from Japan so it's a 2.0litre right hand drive with efi. Can't wait to get back to it. The feedback on what it might be is a great help 🙂 all the photos I have of the engine bay right now ...kinda pointless

Oh I know there is more than just blocking it off but... for a temp fix its blocked off until I get it running right 😉 I was thinking of deleting some stuff later and adding a new fuel rail because all those windy pipes is just asking for trouble. But then.. I am unsure about doing that either and maybe leaving it as stock as possible "You are a pleasant and thankful guy so it'll get back to running soon." << for now hahah Its frustrating but I enjoy frustration at times until I am going around in circles then I get a bit flustered haha. I will for sure do a photo dump but I also seen rotted out intakes which now I am thinking I will just pull the whole intake and fuel lines off and check ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING and make sure that its good to go 😄 or at least go for a while 😄 Well ... it was trying to run on 40psi until I adjusted the pressure regulator ( yes i replaced that with a newer adjustable one ) and once I reduced the PSI to 36 I was able to ( light bulb moment maybe ) run it with throttle pressed a little. So... thinking out loud here... maybe if I reduce it to 30 or below I might not have to have the throttle pressed? It could be a case of too much pressure for the injectors to handle ? hmm Regards the TPS / TVS ( as in the manual ) I prefer to call it TPS hahha ... did I test it at the ECU... Yes ( had to think there ) but yes and it was fine when I had the pedal pushed and not pushed I had continuity etc. Sorry, I should have written the results down for all the tests when I done them but I didn't think I would be in this situation. The forum is a step above the EFI bible.... the 74th Bible if you will 😄 The fuel canister at the front had the pump that is now on the back ( the Bosch 044 pump - reminds me to order a check valve ) I would say that the PO was tinkering with it no doubts then gave up and left it lie in a shed in Germany for 10 odd years 😕 Anyways, I think ( again I wasn't in the country when it arrived ) that the pump was connected directly and a canister at the front. My dad got to drive it up and down the garden - I have yet to drive it 😕 So, that is how it was running. Just to add.. I added new fuel and brake lines and done the Fuse / Fusible links upgrade ( again from the Atlantic Z site) THANKS again for the input guys 🙂 gets me thinking out of the box