milligan21

it will run but the revs arent right or its slow when i push the pedal.. probably from bypassing it? Regarding the fuel filter.. never checked it 😮 Could be a possibility for sure but then the pressure gauge still reads at 36 until I shut it off and it drops instantly. I have no idea why the fuel tank was disconnected but when I disconnect the fuel infeed pipe it flows very good into a bottle.. i say very good as I didnt time the flow but as the pressure is up I thought well its normal ( but still the filter might be worth a check ) The way I have it now ( and not sure if it is what is making the difference ) is with the TPS disconnected. I guess that having it disconnected ( and by that I mean that i have a wire running from the WOT to Idle on the connector ) means that it wont give full throttle enrichment. Maybe I will try it with it reconnected. I am not too sure if it will start though but worth a shot for sure. AFM is connected for sure. I done most if not all the electrical tests in the manuals and all came back fine. By that I mean I tested the ones for injectors, sensors etc etc .. believe me.. i been through them twice at this stage 😄 I didnt write my readings down but they all checked out fine. At this point ( when I am back in Ireland ) I will check 1. the timing 2. the fuel filter at the front 3. the TPS reconnected and see what it does if started Thanks for all the info again.. I came to a roadblock mentally with it. Just remembered . I think that when I had the TPS connected that it didnt run even with my foot down slightly and that is why I disconnected it in the first place. I also adjusted that as per a video I seen on youtube.

yes that calibration 🙂

Thanks again 🙂 Well, I had the AFM open to calibrate it because I thought that was my initial issue. But .... now this is a big but. it probably was not the issue to begin with. I am that far in now I lost track of things I changed etc but I think I am close ( hopefully without a rag 😄 ) Next time I am at it I will check the timing for sure. My dad ( mechanic - mostly diesel trucks etc ) moved the distributor cap slightly one way then the other and there wasn't much change really. It was then put back to where it was originally. If it was running ok before we investigated to why it wouldnt run from the fuel pump in the original position then ( my thinking ) is I messed with the AFM too much. Then I THOUGHT by calibrating it with the weights that it would make it all ok again. Who knows.... its a mystery 😄 for now

But....and here comes a stupid question.... would this cause the issues that I have. Where I have to keep the throttle pressed to keep it running?

Haha close but no cake 🙂 anyway... its all good info and no offence taken at all ... I am learning so I am happy I got this far. It s enjoyable .. which is the main thing:)

Oh I did check that when the engine was at TDC the distributor was pointing at the right plug (1) thats more or less the same thing or no?

Thanks for the link! I will have a read I was going to check that out but couldn't get my hands on a timing light. It's something to check for sure. Appreciate it

Sorry Zed Head.. should have added that i done a vacuum test and was reading 15 whatever the scale is there 🙂 PCV pipe and the thing with the rattle ball in was replaced with new ones. I was adjusting the screw on the throttle body NOT the AFM ( Wasnt sure if i should touch the AFM after the calibration frol Atlantic Z) Ignition timing.... not sure what test that would be? But if you mean the order of the spark plugs...then yes oh 100% yes they are in the right order as I checked and triple checked at this point hahah I have read a lot of stuff on this site and always see your replys....so thanks for replying and your input. Regarding photos of the engine bay I am on my way back to Italy from Ireland ( where the car is ) and i will see if i have any...if not ill get some taken 🙂

Oh also to add... i swapped out the ECU and coils with ones that work ( but don't change how my car is running / not running )

1976 Datsun / Nissan Fairlady 2.0 EFI Bought this car a year ago and been steadily working on it. The car came to me running off a fuel canister from the front. It used to run fine off that but obviously I cant drive it round like that. Once I put the pump on the back it didn’t run. And this is where the fun began. Chasing wires, relays, checking fuel pressure etc etc. All done ( for the most part following the EFI Bible ) For the last year I been tapping away at it doing this that etc. Eventually I got it to run and this is where I am now. It starts and runs as long as I keep my foot down a bit on the throttle and have the TPS disconnected and bypassed . Fuel pressure is good at 36psi and all that. Pressure doesn’t hold but that’s because I don’t have a check valve on the pump and once shut off the pressure instantly drops to 0. I been reading a lot of things over the months and some people have this happen some don’t. Some say that its not needed as the EFI system will bring up the PSI more or less instantly anyways. I swapped out an original pump ( mine is a bosch044) and it holds pressure once shut off at 20psi but it still doesn’t keep running ( again only is the throttle is pressed it will run ) In my diagnostics over the year I have checked and swapped the following but still the same issue. AFM for another. Fuel pump relay ( the dual one ) pump as mentioned. Sensors to the front ( temp and thermotime) all with the same result. I checked my fuel lines, checked the AFM for ohms and voltage as per the bible. I went through the no start diagnosis as well as the start and stall diagnosis. I checked more or less every pin on the ECM / ECU ( again through the bible or field service manual) I also adjusted the idle screw 5 turns clockwise ( made it cut out quicker on start ) and then counterclockwise ( 5 turns and 10 ) but still the same result. So...now... im at a loss. Anyone come across this kind of issue before? Any ideas or help on what I can check next? Its a strange one for sure and I’m stumped 😕 but not defeated hahah Just to add.. as the tps is bypassed I assume its the reason when I accelerate that the rpm go up slowly. Or maybe its something else and the root of my issue? Car photo because why not 😄