Zatarra

Sounds like a plan. I'll remove the valve cover and lightly oil, I'll take off the wire from the ignition coil, remove all spark plugs and crank it a few times before reassembling. I was able to rebuild the engine outside of the typical machine shop work because of detailed instructions all over the internet and manuals. I just had to be really sure on this process as well as no detail is too small. Thank you!

I see a few posts regarding fixing the original heater control valves. Unfortunately I don't have that option anymore but has anyone tried the electronic heater control valves? I see two options, a bypass version and a standard version but I don't know which route to go if anyone would be better for the engine. Considering the strong feelings about blocking off the coolant lines whenever someone deletes the heater core. The standard version would just prevent the flow when set to cold (similar to OEM) vs the bypass version is supposed to route the coolant back when set to cold. https://autoacsolutions.com/products/heater-control-valves/electronic-bypass-heater-control-valve-with-rotary-switch-for-datsun-nissan-200sx-240z-260z-280z-280zx-310-510-720-pickup-4runner-maxima-pathfinder-sentra/ https://tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77-ford-bronco-electronic-heater-control-valve?gclid=Cj0KCQjwtJKqBhCaARIsAN_yS_nslsHrg8iEKvyYFpBPYYlFkKeowtIuIh6l53LFIB1RRR2VVM65RPsaAsd3EALw_wcB What are your thoughts?

Greetings. I rebuilt my 77' 280z a year ago and drove it around for a few miles just to make sure everything was running fairly smooth. The entire engine was taken apart with new bearings, rings, head bolts, etc. I live in California and did not feel like dealing with the smog just yet so I took out the dash and restored it as well as restoring the gauges with Intellitronix inserts. Now I am ready to restart it, should I be fine just to crank it right up or should I follow something like atlanticz's steps to put it back in service? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/storing/index.html "Putting Back in Service Remove plugs and crank engine at starter to flow oil through engine until a good and steady oil pressure. This will take 45 seconds or so. Install plugs and away you go. Check for leaks and proper vehicle functioning. Replace all fluids" What does it mean by "crank engine at starter"? Note, it was only driven about 10 miles after the rebuild, assembly lube used where appropriate but has not had an oil change since. Thank you in advance!

Thank you all for your feedback. I am going to move forward without the shims, the thinnest I could find are .015 but only .012 has been taken off. This coincides with the two resources that ask for shims only when .02 or more has been removed. I'll definitely pay attention to the chain tensioner once I put it back together too, thank you!

I have a pair of Porsche seats waiting to be installed, it will require a custom bracket but I've seen it done. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/82024-PT-datsun-240z @SoCalJim Beautifully done!