fusion

I posted this issue in my quarter window install thread but wanted to give it is own thread to get more eyeballs on it. Car is a 1976 280z. I just installed my quarter windows and I'm having a bit of interference with the weatherstrip on the top of the door and the vertical weatherstrip on the front of the quarter window. All the weatherstripping is brand new from Precision. How did this work from the factory? Was there interference? Looks like I should probably trim the quarter window weatherstrip back to provide clearance for the door weatherstrip. Any other thoughts?

Thanks for your comment. Looks like I'll have to do that, but how did it work from the factory?

I was finally able to get it. I have a roll bar in the car and was able to use that with a clamp to draw the window back. Wow, what a pain. Now that it's done, I'm having a bit of interference with the weatherstrip on the top of the door and the vertical weatherstrip on the front of the quarter window. How is this supposed to work?

Thanks guys. @Mark Maras, I'm having a hard time imagining where you loop the ratchet strap around to suck the glass in. The hatch opening is really slanted. Where did you route the strap?

I have a 1976 280z that I am just finishing up with basically a full restoration. I reassembled the quarter windows with all new weatherstrip from Precision. I cannot get them to seat far enough back to get the window frame screw holes to line up with the body holes. I was able to get the bottom 2 started after extreme effort but the tops are still 1/4" or more away and the door won't close with where it's sitting right now as the door interferes with the vertical seal on the quarter window. I lubed up the seals with silicone spray and sprayed the body area with Windex prior to starting. I was absolutely pushing with all my might while having a helper in the hatch to just barely get the bottom screws started. If it matters, temperature in my garage was about 60*F. Even as it sits with the bottom screws in, the door won't close. How tight is the door/vertical seal supposed to fit together when closing? The entire window assembly needs to move back at least the width of this gap, maybe more: I'm wondering if the Precision outer weatherstripping is too stiff? It was brand new. Maybe I should have glued the first part and stretched it while gluing to thin the bulk out some? Maybe I should just leave it partially installed in the opening as it is now and try pushing again in a few days to see if the new weatherstripping has 'broken in' a bit? I don't think I can push any harder without the risk of damaging something. Looking for advice. Thanks

Hey I finally got back to this. I had another regulator and put it in and it improved a bunch. Not perfect, but good enough. Weird how these things happen.

Hello, I am finishing up a build of a 1976 280z. I am installing the window glass currently. I have finished the driver's side and it went well. I am now working on the passenger side and am having a slight issue in getting the fitment perfect. All tracks and rollers were removed, cleaned and freshly lubricated. Brand new felt in the tracks The passenger glass is slightly tilted towards the front. When I roll the window all the way up, it does get forced into the felt channel so I think it's sealed, but the driver's side was much better alignment than the passenger side. As per the manual, I adjusted the front roller track all the way down and even slotted the holes down further to try and improve. This was as good as I could get (window rolled most of the way up): The frame fits into the door opening really well so I don't think the frame is the issue. Not sure what else to do. I guess I could live with it but I was hoping to get it better. I won't be able to test for wind or water leakage until next spring. Any comments welcome.

Also a good idea, I have never done that, is it difficult? Is there a risk of cracking the glass when tightening the new frame?

Wow, zKars, very astute. You are correct, this window was indeed from another vehicle. The only reason I didn't want to use the glass that came with the car is because it has more substantial scratches along the bottom of the glass. The year of the other vehicle that that the door glass came out of is unknown, I bought a complete door and took the glass out of it. Upon closer inspection of the door, the inner bracing looks to be different between the donor door and my door: Donor: My car: You are also correct that the guides are indeed slightly different Donor window rear guide: My car glass rear guide: Donor front guide: My car front guide: Comparison photo, donor on bottom, my car on top So it looks like I'll need to use the glass that came with my car, or could I just swap to the regulator that came with the donor door? Not sure what condition it's currently in. I'm assuming the donor door was off a 240z.

Thanks guys, I'll install the window frame and try again

I am putting the glass back in my 1976 280z after a restoration. I have the front and rear windshields installed and now I am starting with the driver's glass. I am able to get the glass inside the door and all the guides installed with the wheels in the channels. The 2 glass door bumpers are also installed. The glass seems to roll up and down reasonably. I do not have the window frame installed yet. Where I am getting hung up is that when I roll the window all the way down so the bottom of the door glass frame touches the rubber bumper at the bottom of the door and then start to roll back up, the rearward roller jumps out of the back of the track that is on the door glass frame. Window rolled all the way down Starting to roll back up Roller jumped out of track Door glass I have tried adjusting the front glass guide and the rear regulator guide bolts that are on the inner door frame but other than trying to adjust the entire glass rearwards I'm not sure what to do. I was thinking that perhaps I need to install the window frame but didn't think that would help with the issue at the bottom of travel. Please let me know your comments.

Thanks Steve!

Did you use any weatherstripping adhesive in that area to hold it to the body?

I am running into a slight problem with my Kia weatherstripping in the hatch. The spot where the weatherstripping runs over the hatch lift mounts is too tight and forces the weatherstrip to sit higher in that area. This is making my hatch not close correctly. I could either: 1) grind down the removable part of the mount. This might not even totally fix the problem as the non removable part may also be interfering 2) cut away the lower portion of the weatherstrip. This should alleviate the fitment issue but that small (~2") length would not be attached to the body. Has anyone else had this issue?

I need a lower door hinge spring for a 1976 280z. I can't find a used one without having to purchase the entire hinge. I read another thread where someone linked a spring on McMaster but it was way too big in diameter, I am wondering if the 240z had larger springs. Has anyone had any luck finding a spring or a suitable replacement? Thanks

Success! Thanks to everyone for the great tips. We ended up having one guy in the hatch pulling the rope and using a spudger to pull the lip over the pinch weld. We ended up needing a third pair of hands as we got to the top so we could have both upper corners of the glass pushed downward as the seal was pulled over the lip. This was much harder than expected. I'm not sure how people are able to make it look so easy, especially with the hatch off the car:

Is the hatch glass much harder to install than the windshield? I am finishing up a 1976 280z build and am installing the glass. I have brand new gaskets from vintage rubber. The front windshield was a bit off a pain but got it on the first try. The hatch glass is seeming much more difficult. The hatch is off the car and I thought it would be easier to install off the car rather than on the car. I am using the same rope method. With the front windshield, I was able to slide the glass/gasket into the lower pinch weld and then use the rope to pull the gasket around the pinch weld and use hand pressure to walk it around the sides. With the hatch glass, I can't get it started on any sides of the pinch weld. The top and bottom are especially not very close. I really don't have a good game plan. I did have someone helping me. We gave up after about an hour and no real progress. When we got one side sort of close, the other side would be going the wrong direction. I am using 3/16" (4.8mm) rope. I have seen a couple videos online and they basically just set the glass/gasket into the opening, flip the hatch over and start pulling the rope. Looks super easy. Not sure why it's so hard for me. The glass did come out of this hatch, so I know it was in there before. The new gasket is very robust and I'm sure making it more difficult, but I believe vintage rubber is generally regarded as a quality manufacturer. The hatch is awkward to handle and manipulate which isn't helping either. Any advice is welcome. Thanks

I recently painted my 280z and want to add paint protection film in key areas. The car is lowered and has wider tires with flares. What would be the key areas to cover? I'm assuming behind the rear tires from the bottom of the quarter to about 8" up, the rocker panels, the area behind the front tires on the fender from the bottom up to the body line, and the front valance/air dam. Does that sound right? Any other areas? Thanks

These are the bushings: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/rear-camber-and-toe-bushings-240z-260z-and-280z

I have a 1976 280z that I am in the finishing stages of totally rebuilding from scratch. I have stock rear control arms but custom hub mounts and needed a way to set the toe and camber so I am using adjustable rear control arm bushings that allow for toe and camber adjustment. I understand how to adjust the bushings, but where I am struggling is a reference point to set the toe. It's my understanding that usually the front toe is set with reference to the rear. However, neither my front nor rear toe is set. Not sure the best way forward. I guess I could find the centerline of the car? The frame rails could be an option, however those have been replaced and might not be perfectly square. Any advice welcome. Thanks

I finally figured it out. The white plastic adjustment screw for the outer door handle rod was screwed too far out. I screwed it in further and it works. Whew.

Hi Granny, thanks for your comment. I did verify that the screws are not interfering. I also backed it out just to be sure and still no luck.

Hello, I am finishing up my build of a 1976 280z. I got this as a roller and have never owned a Zcar before. I have just installed the doors back on the car and thoroughly cleaned and lubed both door mechanisms. I initially had an issue getting the door to latch but got that straightened out with new striker plates. My next question is on locking the doors. I can't get them to lock. I have pushed on the door lock rod to no avail. My understanding is that the door needs to be shut in order to lock. I have tried both doors and can't get it. I've tried with the door closed, open, manually turning the latch all the way by hand, everything. I don't have the lock tumbler hooked up on the driver's side but do on the passenger side. The mechanisms look to be in good condition and work fine for latching but either way neither side works for locking. I checked that the bolts are not interfering at all. I'm thinking I'm overlooking something obvious here.

Thanks guys. Do the other parts other than the lobe cover make a worthwhile difference? I'd be interested in making my own lobe cover, looks like from the 240zrubberparts picture a piece of 3/8 fuel hose would work?

Thanks guys. @cgsheen1, any pictures of the lobe covering?