fusion

Thanks guys. @cgsheen1, any pictures of the lobe covering?

95-02 kia Sportage door weatherstrip Part number 0K018-58760B

I am finishing up a very long total rebuild of a 1976 280z. I have hung the doors back on the body and am putting the door hardware back in. The latch mechanisms came with the car and appeared to work well, although I got the car as a roller and really didn't open and close the doors much before the complete teardown. I thoroughly cleaned the mechanism, fully oiled every joint and reinstalled. All door hinges totally rebuilt. The striker plate that came with the car had a broken spring so I purchased aftermarket strikers from Zcardepot. I mounted the striker and spacer plate to the body. I have no weatherstripping on the car yet. Door locks not installed either. I started with the passenger door and it seemed to dial in quickly without any drama. The driver's door, however, had plenty of drama. Initially the door would go into the striker like one click but not fully. I kept trying to move the striker around but wasn't sure what the strategy was other than trial and error. I had been fairly gently closing the door into the striker but wasn't seeming to get anywhere so I closed it very firmly and it latched. Hooray - or so I thought. I lifted the door handle to open the door but the latch didn't release. I reached in to open the inner handle and same thing. I looked inside the door at the mechanism and the pawl (what I am calling the piece with the spring wrapped around it) had not rotated back even though the lever that connects to the door handle was raised up. I have to say after 45 minutes of trying to rotate the pawl back using various tools with no success I was getting a little panicked. I was finally able to wedge my arm in the right place with a screwdriver on the stop arm and get some leverage on it and it released. With the door open, the mechanism in the door rotates easily with my finger and locks in place. When I lift the door handle it snaps back as expected. I'm wondering if the clock spring is too weak or maybe I had the striker in just the wrong spot to cause this? Can I unhook the clock spring where it hooks into that little tab (sitting at about 1oclock in the picture) and make an extra wrap to get more spring tension? Are the striker spacers always used? What is the strategy for positioning the striker plate? Any other thoughts or comments are appreciated. Thanks

Thanks guys

Hello, I am in the process of putting my 280z back together after a ground up build. I want to tint the windows. Right now all the glass is out of the car. My thought was that I should get the quarter windows and hatch glass tinted before install since they sit in a rubber gasket and it would look better if the tint went all the way to the edge, under the gasket. I do worry, however, that putting the gaskets on and installing the glass after tinting may risk damaging the tint. Similar concern with the door glass, I would worry that if I had it tinted beforehand it would get scratched during install. Much more worry than the quarter or hatch glass. Wondering if anyone has input. Thanks

Thanks Yarb

I am in need of a new rear view mirror. Unfortunately it looks like the reasonably priced production is NLA. In my research I've found people mentioned 280zx, 80s Sentra, maybe z31/z32 are a direct swap. I also saw a thread about modifying early 2000 Hyundai accent mirror. Just wondering what other options there are. Thanks

Has anyone replaced their original window cranks with more modern billet versions? What is the spline size for 280z? Was hoping to not have to spend a fortune.

Very true, good point

Thanks everyone. I should have clarified it's a 280z. I don't believe there are any screws along the top edge. I had recently come to the conclusion it must be push pins, thanks Yarb. I'm surprised that the only attachment points are 2 small push pins. I'll see what I have and if I need 2, I'll send you a message Yarb.

Thanks guys. My question isn't how the license plate attaches, but how the bracket attaches to the body.

Hello, This is probably a stupid question, but how is the rear license plate bracket supposed to attach to the body? It looks like the only mounting points are the 2 standoffs on the bottom, but they are just through holes and not threaded. I was surprised to see they weren't threaded. I bought the car in pieces so I never saw how it was attached. Thanks

Would you mind showing exactly what you did for this?

To update this thread: after further analysis it appears that a portion of the internal splines on the adapter were not fully formed (look at 6 o'clock area on both pictures for comparison) Good splines: Misshapen: This was the same on both hubs. I emailed Momo with no response. I ended up cutting the splines off one of my extra steering shafts and pressed it though the hub as a broach. It still didn't slide on by hand, but it went on fairly easily with the nut. If I ever need to remove it, I'm assuming I will have to use a steering wheel puller to get it off.

Thanks for your feedback. I just rechecked and I was off center on the rack a little bit and after centering it I may now have enough travel on each side. Do you have any concerns about the driver's side pointing forward?

I put a new steering rack in my car that has right hand inner tie rods on both sides. I bought 2 MOOG ES2109R right side tie rods and they do fit but on the driver's side it's a bit too long and I don't have much adjustment ability. Also its pointed slightly forward as opposed to the passenger side where it points sightly rearward. What is everyone using for drivers side outer tie rod with right hand thread?

Hello, I have a 76 280z. I am putting a momo 3503 hub adapter onto my steering shaft. Every video I've watched of people putting hub adapters on their s30 it seems they slide right on. Mine goes on very snug, but I can get it to go on about 6mm or so before it gets really hard. Maybe I could pound it on, but doesn't seem right and I don't know how I'd ever get it off. I have checked the splines on both the hub and shaft and they look OK. I even bought another hub and tried that with no success. I have 2 other steering shafts laying around and it's always the same thing. Is it possible both the hubs are bad? Bought both from Amazon (not 3rd party either, from Amazon directly). The splines on the Momo look cast (not machined) and perhaps that's the problem? Not sure where to go from here. I like the collapsible design of the Momo but may have to consider another brand. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks man

The link didn't work for me, could you send the direct YouTube link?

I'm installing a new gasket and windshield into my 280z. I've read conflicting information on using sealant or installing dry. I'm leaning towards using the sealant to ensure no leaks. This is the sealant I purchased: https://www.crlaurence.com/All-Products/Automotive-Windows-%26-Supplies/Automotive-Glass-Supplies/Glazing-Adhesives/Epoxies%2C-Sealers%2C-Urethanes%2C-%26-Adhesives/CRL-Black-Windshield-and-Body-Sealant/p/CRL7708 What's the best way to install with sealant? If I install into the pinch weld groove on the gasket, I'm afraid it will be extremely messy when the rope is coming out of the groove during install. I also wonder how the lube (soapy water or Windex) will affect it. If I apply it to the pinch weld, I'm worried that it will smear all over the gasket flap when the rope pulls it over the pinch weld. Maybe the best method is to install dry and backfill sealant under the gasket flap where it meets the body? I've gone to great lengths to get the car extremely nice and don't want to have a disaster on my hands during the install. Any thoughts appreciated.

I am putting carpet in my 280z. It never had any when I bought it. The brake boot has snaps that apparently attach to the carpet. My carpet doesn't have any and need to add some. I would like to buy some snaps that will work with the brake boot snaps. Preferably ones that rivet in. Has anyone identified any? Thanks

Thanks guys

View Advert Wanted 280z clutch/brake clevis and pin Wanted the clevis and pin for 280z clutch. This is the part that threads onto the master cylinder rod and attaches to the clutch pedal. I believe that the brake and clutch clevises are the same, but not 100% . Let me know if you have one Thanks Advertiser fusion Date 10/13/2023 Price $1 Category Parts Wanted Year 1976 Model 280z

Hello, does anyone know (or could easily measure) the diameter of the clevis pin for the clutch pedal for a 280z? Also would like to know the thickness of the clutch pedal that the clevis bracket goes around. I can't measure mine right now and was hoping someone else might be able to. Thanks

Postage money sent, thanks again!