fusion

I would like to get a rear spoiler for my 280z. I like the look of the BRE style 1 piece spoilers. I have a couple of questions: 1) I have read that if you have a rear spoiler without a front spoiler, the front end becomes light and squirrelly at speed. Is this true, and what speed are we talking about? This will be a street car with a few passes at the dragstrip per year. Is the BRE spoiler short enough that this effect is minimal? Car will have a Xenon type 1 urethane air dam with aluminum supports so it doesn't deform at speed, but no splitter per day. 2) Is the 'real/original' BRE spoiler a good choice? ( https://www.datsun-garage.com/products/the-original-bre-rear-spoiler-1970-78-240z-260z-280z?variant=31473838391380 ). Anyone have any experience? Any pictures? Seems like the 6 mounting points is a good idea. 3) Any other good options? Thanks

I put this off until now doing other things. Would appreciate any measurements people have. I plan to start from the back and work forward. Looking for gap measurements on: Fender to hood Fender to door Door to quarter panel Hatch to body

I saw that eBay seller. But do these pins give any greater functionally than the Dorman pins that are 4 times less money?

I am going to rebuild my door hinges on my 76 280z. Is the Dorman 38397 still a good option? Has anyone been able to source the roller detent pin? One of mine is broken. Does the pin from a 280zx or any other vehicles work? Otherwise maybe I could drill/tap for a shoulder bolt.

Thanks guys. Do they go behind the plastic trim piece that covers the back of the taillights? Or are they exposed? If exposed I'm going to remove them

What are these tubes for? At first I thought maybe for air release when the hatch is closed but I thought that's what the holes behind the C pillar emblems were for. Car is a 1976 280z that I am getting ready for paint and if these don't serve any purpose for me I'm going to cut them off and weld closed. I am using a plastic Camaro fuel tank if that matters.

I am painting my 280z and will be replacing every piece of weatherstripping on the car. I am going with Vintage Rubber front and rear windshield gaskets since I want to go 'Cal style' without the stainless trim. I am also going to use Kia Sportage weatherstrip for the doors and hatch. I believe these are the most critical seals on the car and people have had issues with some brands. But for the rest of the car, I am wondering if it's worth paying a premium for Vintage Rubber, or if the cheaper seals on Zcardepot (Precision?), or another vendor are totally fine Any comments welcome.

Where are people getting the Kia door seals from now that koraps is closed?

Thanks everyone

Has anyone powder coated or painted the hatch or door locks? I am going to paint my chrome/stainless trim black on my 280z but didn't know about the locks, especially the hatch lock, given the fact that it pushes in. Thanks

Good idea, thanks man

Right now the car is in primer and I'm going to use a calipers. After paint I'll probably use wood as well.

Thanks guys. I do plan to start from back to front. Was hoping to get an idea of what others have achieved with panel gaps just to get a frame of reference when I start the process. Thanks

I am preparing to paint my 1976 280z. I am doing panel alignment and fitment while the body is still in primer so I can make adjustments if necessary. I am looking for some panel gap numbers from people to get an idea of the ranges. Even better if you have done your own panel fitment and adjustment. A maximum and minimum if possible for each spot. Looking for gap measurements on: Fender to hood Fender to door Door to quarter panel Hatch to body Thanks in advance

View Advert Looking for drivers door patch panel My 1976 280z driver's door has a unpullable dent at the top right where where the mirror bolts to it. It's in an extremely tight location and I don't think I can pound it out. Wondering if anyone has a rusty door that they could cut out a patch panel out of. I *think* any year 240-280 should work but not 100% sure. Advertiser fusion Date 10/21/2021 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1976 Model 280z

Thank you for your help!

Car was media blasted to bare metal and sprayed with epoxy primer. Metal looks good.

I am using Marugen Shokai over fenders. They seem to have a bit of range of where they can be mounted.

I am in the early stages of fitting my rear ZG flares on my 280z. I have read through a lot of install threads, most of which have broken picture links. My understanding is the best way to decide how high up to mount the flares is to remove the spring from my BC racing coilover to allow the shock to compress all the way to the bump stop. However, when I did that, I can only compress the shock up so far until the rear wheel/tire (275-50-r15) runs into the factory wheel arch. There is still a ways to go before the bump stop bottoms out. But it's extremely hard to measure the distance remaining. It's a chicken-and-egg scenario. I can't determine where to make my cut line until I can compress the wheel/tire all the way, but I can't do that without cutting the metal first. I must be missing something, any thoughts?

View Advert Early 280z EFI fuel tank and sending unit Came out of my 1976 280z. Using a plastic LS tank so don't need this. Looks to be in great shape. Comes with fuel level sensor. Price does not include shipping Advertiser fusion Date 07/24/2021 Price $400 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert Z31 Nissan 300zx turbo LSD differential with finned cover Up for sale is an extremely rare LSD diff from a turbo 300zx. Comes with the rare finned cover. This came with a car I purchased but I will not be using it. It has a 3.70 gear ratio. I have not run the diff myself and therefore cannot personally confirm it's running condition, but it looks to be in good shape. $900 Buyer pays shipping costs Advertiser fusion Date 07/24/2021 Price $900 Category Parts for Sale

My car is currently a bare shell, otherwise I'd be glad to help.

Thanks man, looks great. Any issues with warpage? Anything you would have done differently?

I am prepping a 1976 280z for paint. I'm assuming most people separate the sugar scoop from the fender when painting the car and paint both separately? Is there a gasket or anything that sits between them? Anyone have any experience or pictures where the scoop is welded to the fender? Obviously there would be a chance to warp the metal. But given they are tightly bolted together, curved surfaces, and it's a flanged butt joint, seems like it would be fairly resistant to warping. Seems straightforward to jump around making a lot of tack welds, grind smooth and finish with a skim coat of filler. But I wanted to get some opinions. Any pictures would be great. Thanks in advance.

Sounds great, thanks man. I'll PM you my address