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mailnome

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  1. Mmmm, that looks good! But I’d rather die like my boss says, “I want to go out the same the way I came into this world, with a ****y around my neck.” Woot!!! Edit: Note to OP; Sorry, probably not the best time to start said thread. Sunday morning, Happy New Year’s!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Billy Strings, heck yeah! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. If you could find a metal, or maybe even plastic, sleeve that fits the hole reasonably well and that would match a (reverse) bit on the inside, that would make it a little easier. Like said above, it will probably back it right out once it bites. That or pull the timing cover Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. mailnome posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    No, apparently our 280ZX’s are not worthy yet. There’s a place or two that make floor pans and rails but they are not good reproductions. Maybe ClassicFab will eventually. There is one site I know that sells used parts for the ZX and Z’s but but I’m really not sure what to think of them. Most things seem over priced and over touted on their condition, but then there really isn’t any body else that collecting parts to sell for them. https://maseraticompound.com What makes me wonder about them is crap like this. They do say one is not OEM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. mailnome posted a post in a topic in 510
    Thanks. It almost seemed it was epoxied in, but that may be just heat and time. I like the idea of a flexible urethane better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. mailnome posted a post in a topic in 510
    Looking good! Sorry to bother but I just noticed the sealant for my baffle plate(?) for the valve cover vent is cracking and falling out. I plan on removing it and the brittle sealer. Is there a preferred sealant to use there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Do you have any pictures from before? The area in the center looks odd like it had been touched up before. I think something else is going on there and he tried to fix it but made it more noticeable. I do see how it looks like he cut through a layer there. I guess it’s SS(single stage) paint on top of SS paint with no primer between? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. More IAAI stuff. Says “1972 DATSUN OTHER” https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33854169~US And this 79 200SX just because is cool, but probably really bad. https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/34035490~US Edit: Plus these two gems 1982 DATSUN 720 KING CAB https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/34035623~US 1984 DATSUN 720 KING CAB 4X4 https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33467113~US Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. mailnome posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    I used to do auto detailing and used to participate in a detailing forum, Autogeek. I’ve read a bit about it and have only tried doing it a little. Basically a very time consuming and messy process and you may not get the results you want. Use a rotary polisher and a cerium oxide polish and you have to keep wetting/spraying it which causes the machine to sling it everywhere. You also run the risk of creating waves in the glass if you go too crazy with it and are not consistent with your application. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. mailnome posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    It’s a ZX though. If Classic Fab made them, I would buy them. Only ones available are not very stock looking. Still have a while to decide and many other spots to patch while I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. mailnome posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Busy month and very little non family extracurricular time. Down to 2-3 hours a week if I’m lucky. Basically a few tweaks and a shave or two here and there with a file and it’s good to go. I have to decide if I need to deal with the rabbit hole on the right first before welding. I may want to cut there while I have good access. Also as I slowly go along, I am trying to decide on my approach for the right body rail. It’s either drill out the welds and reproduce almost the whole thing. Or cut it horizontally staying down at least a 1/2” and saving the original spot welded flange. Either is going to be a lot of work. Right now I’m leaning towards cutting horizontal, I think I will make it slightly less complex to build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. And for reference, this is the beautiful low mileage car he has https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62679-restoration-unveiled-today-08172019/ Edit: The one thing that stands out to me looking at the few pics is the zip ties and maybe the extra black wire ties but I’m no judge Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Interesting question? I’ve never really considered it, and just assumed it’s one of those things that can’t really be original. I would probably just buy a black battery, remove the sticker, and see if you could find some old stickers to reproduce. That or go with plain black. I could be totally wrong and am interested to see what others say. And I don’t think Nismo did any special batteries, and they were not founded until later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. mailnome posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Trying to get a little done anytime I can but probably get a max of 8hrs of work in a week if I’m lucky. First piece is almost finished but ran out of gas and my hook up for welding supplies is one worker short. Unfortunately he was the one that helped us the most. Just getting close to finishing up making the patch pieces for the floor joint in front of the first section. Need to fill in my holes yet Vise grip orgy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Here’s a decent looking 72 off of IAAI auction in Lincoln IL https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33557402~US Also a nice 510 wagon in Portland https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/32479419~US Then the 510 “Moth Trap” edition. Ha, check the secondary damage description https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/25757211~US Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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