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Mmmm, that looks good! But I’d rather die like my boss says, “I want to go out the same the way I came into this world, with a ****y around my neck.” Woot!!! Edit: Note to OP; Sorry, probably not the best time to start said thread. Sunday morning, Happy New Year’s!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Billy Strings, heck yeah! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you could find a metal, or maybe even plastic, sleeve that fits the hole reasonably well and that would match a (reverse) bit on the inside, that would make it a little easier. Like said above, it will probably back it right out once it bites. That or pull the timing cover Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, apparently our 280ZX’s are not worthy yet. There’s a place or two that make floor pans and rails but they are not good reproductions. Maybe ClassicFab will eventually. There is one site I know that sells used parts for the ZX and Z’s but but I’m really not sure what to think of them. Most things seem over priced and over touted on their condition, but then there really isn’t any body else that collecting parts to sell for them. https://maseraticompound.com What makes me wonder about them is crap like this. They do say one is not OEM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. It almost seemed it was epoxied in, but that may be just heat and time. I like the idea of a flexible urethane better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good! Sorry to bother but I just noticed the sealant for my baffle plate(?) for the valve cover vent is cracking and falling out. I plan on removing it and the brittle sealer. Is there a preferred sealant to use there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have any pictures from before? The area in the center looks odd like it had been touched up before. I think something else is going on there and he tried to fix it but made it more noticeable. I do see how it looks like he cut through a layer there. I guess it’s SS(single stage) paint on top of SS paint with no primer between? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More IAAI stuff. Says “1972 DATSUN OTHER” https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33854169~US And this 79 200SX just because is cool, but probably really bad. https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/34035490~US Edit: Plus these two gems 1982 DATSUN 720 KING CAB https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/34035623~US 1984 DATSUN 720 KING CAB 4X4 https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33467113~US Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I used to do auto detailing and used to participate in a detailing forum, Autogeek. I’ve read a bit about it and have only tried doing it a little. Basically a very time consuming and messy process and you may not get the results you want. Use a rotary polisher and a cerium oxide polish and you have to keep wetting/spraying it which causes the machine to sling it everywhere. You also run the risk of creating waves in the glass if you go too crazy with it and are not consistent with your application. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s a ZX though. If Classic Fab made them, I would buy them. Only ones available are not very stock looking. Still have a while to decide and many other spots to patch while I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Busy month and very little non family extracurricular time. Down to 2-3 hours a week if I’m lucky. Basically a few tweaks and a shave or two here and there with a file and it’s good to go. I have to decide if I need to deal with the rabbit hole on the right first before welding. I may want to cut there while I have good access. Also as I slowly go along, I am trying to decide on my approach for the right body rail. It’s either drill out the welds and reproduce almost the whole thing. Or cut it horizontally staying down at least a 1/2” and saving the original spot welded flange. Either is going to be a lot of work. Right now I’m leaning towards cutting horizontal, I think I will make it slightly less complex to build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And for reference, this is the beautiful low mileage car he has https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62679-restoration-unveiled-today-08172019/ Edit: The one thing that stands out to me looking at the few pics is the zip ties and maybe the extra black wire ties but I’m no judge Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting question? I’ve never really considered it, and just assumed it’s one of those things that can’t really be original. I would probably just buy a black battery, remove the sticker, and see if you could find some old stickers to reproduce. That or go with plain black. I could be totally wrong and am interested to see what others say. And I don’t think Nismo did any special batteries, and they were not founded until later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trying to get a little done anytime I can but probably get a max of 8hrs of work in a week if I’m lucky. First piece is almost finished but ran out of gas and my hook up for welding supplies is one worker short. Unfortunately he was the one that helped us the most. Just getting close to finishing up making the patch pieces for the floor joint in front of the first section. Need to fill in my holes yet Vise grip orgy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s a decent looking 72 off of IAAI auction in Lincoln IL https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/33557402~US Also a nice 510 wagon in Portland https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/32479419~US Then the 510 “Moth Trap” edition. Ha, check the secondary damage description https://www.iaai.com/VehicleDetail/25757211~US Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe the Odyssey is running 3 cylinders at idle. I know the older ones switch to the front three when it can during light cruising. Maybe they make it do it at idle too to conserve more fuel. Edit: just looked it up and it does do cylinder deactivation at idle Also, I don’t know if they have fixed the issue but on the older ones the rings gaps can line up while they are not under much pressure and will suck oil or something like that is what my boss says. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any more pics? I thought about trying to head up that way but the forecast didn’t look that great. Of course it ended up not raining at all where I am which is about an hour south of there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2+2’s make me think of the Seinfeld two face episode. Sometime you see them and the look awesome, then you look again and they look odd. I think it all depends on the angle. At the right angle I think the 2+2 looks better but the standard looks good from almost any angle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Dutch, ;) That’s interesting! I had not thought about drilling out the spot welds from the top Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry Pat, just saw this. Thanks! Pretty much hammer forming. I did use the vice as brake in the beginning to make the wide U shape then flattened the one end back down in the vice and started beating. Ended up rounding the lower angles using a 3 way trailer ball hitch as dolly in the vice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A rotisserie would be nice and would make the frame rail work much easier but I’ll probably try to do without. After a little research on welding upside down it seems it is doable but not ideal. I’ll have to try some things and see how it goes. I have not seen or read much about annealing. I think remember coming across it and they were working with aluminum. They were talking about heating the metal between working it, I believe because it becomes hardened from the forming. I had not seen any mention annealing with steel but would love to learn more if needed. Yes, I should have cleaned up more before starting. I had planned to but then forgot once I had a chance to weld and just jumped into it. I did notice the soot in the pics and wondered if I ran out of gas. I had not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had some fun creating my panel for the floor as my first metal working project. This is actually my second (same) piece I made. The first one I shaped was from 22 gauge and seemed flimsy though I hadn’t dimple died it. It was all I could find easily and was anxious start. Then I was hooked up with a sheet of 18. After cutting and fitting I believe the original floor is 18 gauge also or very close to it. I forgot to take a picture of my new favorite and handy tool to make my patterns but I bought a HF 10 In. Contour Gauge. Cheap and helpful. Bearing race and press piece for my dimple die. I cut the hole first and centered everything up in the press the best I could. Maybe a hair to deep but I’m happy. I need to work on the welder set up. I thought I was getting decent penetration but after I welded some more this evening I didn’t get as good welds. Then I also tried from the bottom and the welder didn’t like it. I was out of time anyway, which was good. No need to push on and get frustrated, step back and assess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mart. Sorry, my last post I thought I should find your name. Yes, the wheel housing pics look great. That is what made me hope you had the underside too. Great that it did not need done! And I am Matt (Matthew) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dutch, do you happen to have any good pics of the underside of your car while it was being redone? I saw a few in your thread, but wasn’t sure if you had others that you didn’t post. I know the 2+2 will be slightly different but I know your car was in good shape. I did grab a lot of pics from BAT and other sites but nice primered parts show good contrast. Most posted online don’t have pics of the underside, they are covered in undercoating, or are beat up too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Worked some of the dents out of the floor pans. Drivers side had been pushed up a bit Getting there Passenger side Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk