mailnome

It looks like both of the bolts that attaches the housing to the head are broken in the pic. There is usually a lot of corrosion in those bolt holes in the housing and that front one is long. Maybe PB Blaster, some tapping, heat, and later some gentle prying repeated multiple times may free it up so you can slide the housing off and then get the bolts out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those 3 valve motors are b awch. On those I was told to only “crack” them, then soak them with carb cleaner for a while. Then use a electric ratchet and don’t stop till they are out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for reply and explanation. I like your reasoning and I think it gives me some direction on mine. I’m certainly not doing concours type build and should just go with makes me happy and keep them protected. Shiny Cad parts make me happy. That splash shield almost looks to cool to paint, but I do understand the want to protect if it’s going to be driven. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome thread Dutch! I’ve got a 79 I’m working on and have been slowly prepping things for platting so I hope you don’t mind questions. Looking at the pictures on my phone I can’t tell if everything was Yellow/Gold Zinc Cad platted or if some were also left clear zinc. Did the heat and under shields come zinc plated from factory? I was thinking the manifold shield and the booster shield were galvanized but was not positive. Same for the under shield but I have not really looked at it yet or done any prep work to it. And I was wondering if you knew what finish was on the radiator over flow bottle bracket? Every one that I have seen out of the car is pretty rusty like mine and you can’t see it when looking at engine bay pics of cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool. Is that a Prince/Nissan cap? Edit: Maybe not, I read something about Nissan having their own oil brand at one time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the one on the left on my 79 Edit: found a pic with the Alt still in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got a pretty 61 Catalina at the shop the other day. Beautiful original paint. My pics don’t really do it justice Bit dusty but looks better than modern CC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, you do not need to plug the bottom hole where the tube was. Or the other side either actually, unless you were leaving a unbroken tube attached to the exhaust. It’s just a hole through to the other side which goes to one side of the valve. The rectangle hole in the picture below is what needs to be plugged. The plates designed to cover both holes on top would work best because of how the holes and the mounting points are set up. Here’s a pic from the top with the valve, riser, and studs removed. They were really frozen together and a pita to get off. The pipe is still connected to the bottom side. Just the valve removed and plugged with carbon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, good to know. My originally red 280ZX has been 907 since the 80s and will stay that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the PO of my car wanted to replicate the look of that car, but with a ZX. 907 green and tan seats Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s mostly Maui Wowie but it has a little Labrador in it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, flare nut wrenches would help. If you don’t have them, you’ll probably want to get a set that includes the size for the brake lines also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Heat can help sometimes. Of course a torch of some sort is usually the quickest but I’ve heard of people using a heat gun for the same. Guess a hair dryer could be used but may not get hot enough. That’s if you’re are trying to save them. If not, hack em up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where is a good spot to hook up a mechanical gauge? I guess right there at the sender? I vote for the sender unit too, I think they eventually have a hard time registering low pressure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Decided to try and see what I could do to this wiper motor piece. It’s been stripped but seems to have another layer of platting or something that rust had eaten into. I had already started to sand the lower right side with 120. Not to shabby! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Little more playing with paint. Air box is good enough, it ended up a little “flat” looking. It think the temp and humidity was a bit too extreme. Need to compare it side by side with the top to see if I’m happy. ZX and ZXT alternator tensioner Played with cleaning up some parts for platting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope you don’t mind a post and a pic inspired by you others here. Tried the drill method out on some headlight screws. Wire wheeled them then chucked them up. Used 120, 220, 400, then steel wool. Both were very similar looking before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those amp clamps are handy. I’ve got one with BlueTooth I bought it when I went through swapping out 4 remanned alternators into my 4Runner. Yes the quality of remanufactured parts now is chit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gold, do you mean tan? Tan floor mats are available Is it the glass part of the mirror surface that is dull. If so you can just replace the piece of glass. It is glued to the plastic piece that’s behind it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow, that looks great! Love the side by side shot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still say bolt extractor, a good long breaker bar, and a hammer to smack on the back of it to drive it on and shock it. If for some reason that won’t grab, cut little slots with your dremmel where it leaves marks for it to grab. Wouldn’t hurt to get some penetrating oil on there maybe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Dutch. Found a little rodent damage while cleaning the harness up. This is tucked into the passenger side fender area. Could be worse and I hope I don’t find much more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Yeah, it’s the lighting or however my phone decides to pick it up. It’s done with Duplicolor Pontiac Blue Engine Enamel DE1610. Not sure how close it really is, but I think it’s good enough. Not as dark as the dark pics and doesn’t seem as light as the light ones, ha. http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/enginepaint.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been working on my air cleaner box for a bit and finally got to paint. I didn’t get many good before pics. This one is shortly after starting stripping. The box was more rusty than the cover. I’m “probably” not going to go as crazy on it as I did the lid, but I tend to not be content until things look satisfactory to me. After some primer and some sanding. After some more primer and a couple coats of paint. Wasn’t that pleased with it so I wet sanded it and covered it again a week later. A little better, but I may hit it again after another block sanding in the future. I did paint the box too and the charcoal/evap canister bracket. The box is very pitted but mostly where you can’t see it. I did fill some areas that can be seen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bolt extractor. I usually use them with a breaker bar and tap on the back with a hammer as I try to rotate it to help it dig in. I have also beat them off with a chisel, but that is much less fun Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk