bravemushi260z

It was all going well for a while but now I have the same issue, it's not being fixed by the linkage any more. I'm thinking it might be caused by a vacuum leak but i checked everywhere and don't know what else to check to be honest. Carb adjustment doesnt make any difference. I am at a point where I might just buy some new carbs to be honest. Or just go EFI

So I have the overheating problem with the car just idling for about 15-20 minutes, could be carbon deposits since I dont know how this car was running before I got it. I am looking into how to get this out, do you recommend fuel additives? I had originally run sea foam with my gas to clean everything up, but is there something people recommend for these cars?

I’m measuring temp based on the gauge, I know it’s running hot because I’m still getting run on when I turn off the car, there may be air getting in somewhere so I will check with some carb cleaner and see if I hear any change in RPM. For the cooling system I’ve flushed it twice before running the car and have all new fluid in there, also know it’s flowing well from some small leaks I had and fixed. I may be running Lean so I’ll mess with the carbs s bit and see if it fixed anything. Heading over where the car is before class and will take a look at the impeller blades

Thanks to all of you guys for your help @Zed Head @SteveJ @Racer X, I got it working as soon as I was hooked up to the resistor instead of the coil. Unfortunately it’s not enough cooling and the car is still getting a bit hotter than I would like, so I’ll be getting another 12 inch and installing it next to the first one, as well as setting the temp it comes on lower

Got it, I will take a look when I get into it tomorrow morning, hopefully it works. Unfortunately won’t be able to take it out until I get the mustang that’s blocking off the jack stands 😆. More motivation to get its transmission back in I guess

Got it, just watched this video, thank you so much

I don’t believe I have them reversed, I am positive the red and yellow are going to the right spot (it’s a lot more clear with newer wires haha). Regarding the black/white wire at the ballast resistor, i should hook it up after the resistor but before the coil right? I attached a picture of the wiring diagram and circled where I intend to wire it into.

Okay got it, I’ll connect the yellow to the ballast resistor wire tomorrow before I get started, I see now how I am grounding it. I’ll test the wires this time with the key on to also make sure I am getting the right one Thank you guys so much for your help

that's also where i was when touching the relay wire to the ignition coil

Im connected to the positive side of the coil

Hey guys I just got back home after doing some work on the 260z. When I bought the car it did not have a fan or fan clutch (honestly no idea why), so after I finally got the car running and the brakes and clutch in order my last step was to install a fan, the prices were higher than i expected so I just decided to do a electric fan setup. So I bought a Hayden electric fan relay wiring kit, and a small 12inch fan (with plans on adding a second one soon, I just really want to drive the car. I believed I had everything wired up correctly, relay to ground and positive battery terminal, one wire to ignition coil, one wire to thermostat, and one wire to the fan (fan was grounded on one of the radiator bolts). I go to start the car to see if the fan works, but the car cranks, but won't start. I remembered that I forgot to plug in the ignition coil again and after plugging it in the same problem continued. I wasn't sure what was going on. I kept trying, and the battery eventually gave out so I jump started it, but this time I unplugged the wire from the relay to the ignition coil and it fired right up. While the car was running I tried to hold the wire from the relay to the ignition coil to the pos terminal on the coil, and as soon as i did the car quickly started to die. So to me it seems that somehow the wire coming from the fan relay is drawing power from the coil. But i have two questions about this, number one: if the car is already running, theoretically couldnt I unplug the ignition coil and it keep running? second: could it be a bad ground somewhere? I am a little worried about the ground on the radiator bolt but I'm not sure. Ive attached an image of the relay kit and the wiring diagram for it belowHayden Temperature Switch-3647 - The Home Depot.html p-475-3647-fan-controllers.pdf

I know I’m cleaning it up haha, it’s It’s been sitting outside in Colorado for years. It’s a 74, it definitely has one I see it capped off with a bolt on the passenger side. Really not sure what the previous owner was trying to do.

@heyitsramaI believe they did, I had bought a kit with all the fuel lines and am planning to install them, but I think I’m going to need a new fuel rail for the return, here’s a picture of the setup right now, and you may be able to see it better in the video I posted earlier.

Holy crap guys it’s perfect now, it was just the linkage!! I readjusted it and now I’m idling at a smooth 800-1000. (Atleast I think so, my rpm gauge decided to stop working all of a sudden LOL). It also had a ridiculously loud exhaust for a car that’s actually pretty slow. Thank you so much for all your help!! IMG_5568.MOV

Okay I think I understand what @Zed Headbetter now, so I’m getting too much air that’s causing it to run rich, so I’m thinking that could be either a vacuum leak(but I’m not sure since it’s not running rough just idling high). The other likely culprit could be that the carb wasn’t running choke plates ? When I rebuilt the hole for the choke shaft was welded close. I’m headed out now to check the linkage