bravemushi260z

It was all going well for a while but now I have the same issue, it's not being fixed by the linkage any more. I'm thinking it might be caused by a vacuum leak but i checked everywhere and don't know what else to check to be honest. Carb adjustment doesnt make any difference. I am at a point where I might just buy some new carbs to be honest. Or just go EFI

So I have the overheating problem with the car just idling for about 15-20 minutes, could be carbon deposits since I dont know how this car was running before I got it. I am looking into how to get this out, do you recommend fuel additives? I had originally run sea foam with my gas to clean everything up, but is there something people recommend for these cars?

I’m measuring temp based on the gauge, I know it’s running hot because I’m still getting run on when I turn off the car, there may be air getting in somewhere so I will check with some carb cleaner and see if I hear any change in RPM. For the cooling system I’ve flushed it twice before running the car and have all new fluid in there, also know it’s flowing well from some small leaks I had and fixed. I may be running Lean so I’ll mess with the carbs s bit and see if it fixed anything. Heading over where the car is before class and will take a look at the impeller blades

Thanks to all of you guys for your help @Zed Head @SteveJ @Racer X, I got it working as soon as I was hooked up to the resistor instead of the coil. Unfortunately it’s not enough cooling and the car is still getting a bit hotter than I would like, so I’ll be getting another 12 inch and installing it next to the first one, as well as setting the temp it comes on lower

Got it, I will take a look when I get into it tomorrow morning, hopefully it works. Unfortunately won’t be able to take it out until I get the mustang that’s blocking off the jack stands 😆. More motivation to get its transmission back in I guess

Got it, just watched this video, thank you so much

I don’t believe I have them reversed, I am positive the red and yellow are going to the right spot (it’s a lot more clear with newer wires haha). Regarding the black/white wire at the ballast resistor, i should hook it up after the resistor but before the coil right? I attached a picture of the wiring diagram and circled where I intend to wire it into.

Okay got it, I’ll connect the yellow to the ballast resistor wire tomorrow before I get started, I see now how I am grounding it. I’ll test the wires this time with the key on to also make sure I am getting the right one Thank you guys so much for your help

that's also where i was when touching the relay wire to the ignition coil

Im connected to the positive side of the coil

Hey guys I just got back home after doing some work on the 260z. When I bought the car it did not have a fan or fan clutch (honestly no idea why), so after I finally got the car running and the brakes and clutch in order my last step was to install a fan, the prices were higher than i expected so I just decided to do a electric fan setup. So I bought a Hayden electric fan relay wiring kit, and a small 12inch fan (with plans on adding a second one soon, I just really want to drive the car. I believed I had everything wired up correctly, relay to ground and positive battery terminal, one wire to ignition coil, one wire to thermostat, and one wire to the fan (fan was grounded on one of the radiator bolts). I go to start the car to see if the fan works, but the car cranks, but won't start. I remembered that I forgot to plug in the ignition coil again and after plugging it in the same problem continued. I wasn't sure what was going on. I kept trying, and the battery eventually gave out so I jump started it, but this time I unplugged the wire from the relay to the ignition coil and it fired right up. While the car was running I tried to hold the wire from the relay to the ignition coil to the pos terminal on the coil, and as soon as i did the car quickly started to die. So to me it seems that somehow the wire coming from the fan relay is drawing power from the coil. But i have two questions about this, number one: if the car is already running, theoretically couldnt I unplug the ignition coil and it keep running? second: could it be a bad ground somewhere? I am a little worried about the ground on the radiator bolt but I'm not sure. Ive attached an image of the relay kit and the wiring diagram for it belowHayden Temperature Switch-3647 - The Home Depot.html p-475-3647-fan-controllers.pdf

I know I’m cleaning it up haha, it’s It’s been sitting outside in Colorado for years. It’s a 74, it definitely has one I see it capped off with a bolt on the passenger side. Really not sure what the previous owner was trying to do.

@heyitsramaI believe they did, I had bought a kit with all the fuel lines and am planning to install them, but I think I’m going to need a new fuel rail for the return, here’s a picture of the setup right now, and you may be able to see it better in the video I posted earlier.

Holy crap guys it’s perfect now, it was just the linkage!! I readjusted it and now I’m idling at a smooth 800-1000. (Atleast I think so, my rpm gauge decided to stop working all of a sudden LOL). It also had a ridiculously loud exhaust for a car that’s actually pretty slow. Thank you so much for all your help!! IMG_5568.MOV

Okay I think I understand what @Zed Headbetter now, so I’m getting too much air that’s causing it to run rich, so I’m thinking that could be either a vacuum leak(but I’m not sure since it’s not running rough just idling high). The other likely culprit could be that the carb wasn’t running choke plates ? When I rebuilt the hole for the choke shaft was welded close. I’m headed out now to check the linkage

Quick question before I get into it tomorrow morning, I'm wondering if it could be some other issue with timing or something? This is my first time running this engine so I am not sure. The thing with the idle is, although it is high at 2500 rpm, it is not rough or jumpy at all. It holds it pretty steadily. What do you think? Also thank you so much for helping me out!

Okay I’ll loosen up the screws to not damage the carbs, I didn’t over tighten, I had seated them and turned them two full turns out, but while adjusting I tightened it in one more term. I believe the smoke coming out is run on(dieseling) from excess fuel. I’m going to borrow a fuel pressure test from autozone and see what I can figure out tomorrow. I’ll also unhook the gas pedal linkage and see if I can get the throttle stop to sit more forward as that may be part of my problem. no I don’t believe there’s any electrical solenoids on them

Hey guys I also just realized that my throttle stop is sitting really far forward after installing the carbs, compared to when I had them out of the car. I wish I I had a picture right now but I work on the car at a lot an hour away. Basically even with the idle speed screw screwed in all the way it doesn’t touch the throttle stop. Could I have just bolted it down too far forward by accident?

Thank you @Zed Head, so what do you think the problem could be? Could it be running rich due to too much fuel pressure? Should I try installing a regulator? also could the fact that I don’t have a choke be causing the issue? I’m sorry if my questions aren’t advanced,I literally just started learning about carbs and how they work about a week ago. Thanks for your time

Quick note to add that I’d love to ask you about, I don’t have a fuel return line, the previous owner removed it. Do you think this could be causing my issue??

Thanks for answering man, there’s no way That originally pouring fuel into the carbs should be causing the motor running after turning it off right? I just rebuilt the carbs and everything was functioning and sliding properly when I manually tested them regarding the PSI, since the 260z had both an electric and mechanical pump is the system getting too much gas? And even if that Is the case, isn’t the point of the float to limit the amount of gas ? I’ll give the carb cleaner in the carb while running a shot and hope that works. I was able to get it down to about 2500 rpm after tightening the idle mixture screw down but that’s still a ridiculous idle especially with the car being manual

Hey man, that sucks I know it can be frustrating. Basically what Steve suggested which was filling the fuel rail with gas to get the carbs full, I also added starter fluid. Once the car was running I noticed I got gas in the fuel filter and so that was a good sign. I did two more cycles of this until eventually my mechanical pump got the whole system going. If you have any more questions I can give more details on the phone. My number is 973-883-5076

Hey guys so after trying to get my 260z with Weber 32/36 carbs set up(which I just rebuilt) I finally got it running today! It’s not running too good though haha. When I started it up it was idling at about 5k rpm! I tightened the idle mixture screws a bit and got it down to 3k rpm, obviously better but still really high. Another strange thing is when I turn off the car, it almost keeps running but dies slowly and starts blowing some white smoke from the top of the carbs. If I want to kill it right away as soon as I turn it off, I floor it to open the throttle valves and it shuts down smoothly. A couple things that I think may be causing these issues and wanted to get your opinions; number 1 that the throttle valves aren’t closed completely and they are staying a bit open and letting too much gas into the engine at idle. The reason I think this is that when I filled the carbs with some gas to get it running originally I noticed that the primary valve was not holding any of the gas I was pouring number 2, that my floats could be too high, I switched the brass ones to plastic and reset the heigh to 35 mm, but maybe I made a mistake here? number 3 honestly not too confident in this one but it may be caused by somehow getting too much fuel from the mechanical fuel pump? number 4, other possible area where the carbs could be having an air leak. Just a quick note as well: my carbs don’t have the choke plates installed, the previous owner welded the choke shaft’s holes shut any help is greatly appreciated, and if there’s any info I can add please let me know!

Got it running!

Okay so I primed the fuel lines, starting fluid and cleared the line coming out of the gas tank! I’m getting fuel now up to the mechanical pump which I see in the fuel filter but still not getting enough to the carbs, I know I’m getting some because the car will sometimes just barely start and then die. I think the mechanical pump may be bad. Just ordered one that should be here at the end of the day!