Parman

1 last horn U7, 7/71: Looks untouched by how the thin paper gaskets were intact.

Horn W1, 1/74 had some changes. A brass tab for the electrical connector, didn't stop corrosion on the rivet though, and 2 slots in the cover. This may have had the base changed to an earlier style so fwiw, here's the breakdown on this horn: Here's U10, 10/72. This horn actually faintly worked, believe it or nor. Haha, I have it soaking in rust dissolved, but most likely it's a parts horn.

After sanding the contact points, the electrical was good. It helps to have a chuck to hold the diaphragm shaft while removing or tightening the nut. The earlier horns have a round spacer instead of a rectangular bar in the diaphragm. The rectangular bar has to be aligned with the center or the alignment hole. The latest horns I found with the round spacer were 6/71 or U6. The U7 or 7/71 horns had the rectangular bar. Here is the diaphragm orientation of horn T10, 10/70 Here is T11, 11/70 I had a matching pair of B3 horns 3/78, one with a low tone L on the bracket. I thought we might be able to tell what the differences are between it and the high tone: The differences are clear, one has thin shims under the diaphragm, one had a smaller rectangular spacer, not thinner, but shorter.

After refinishing some horn pieces, to 6 horns, it came time to assemble them. I did document and measure each piece and photograph the pieces, but what I didn't take into account was, you can't see thicknesses of washers from a photo. And what makes a horn high tone, what makes it low tone. Frustrated, I could only get 3 of my 7 horns working, I decided to dive into this deeper. All the horns I could not get working, had good continuity. So I Figured it had to do with the different thicknesses of washers and shims on each side of the diaphragm. Their placement, I thought, could also have something to do with the high and low tone. So I sourced more horns through Junkyard Jenny, and hopefully they haven't been messed with. If you ever need parts, she's great. I get a variety of horns a few days later, and now I'm a bit more careful disassembling them. Great care is taken to document and measure each piece of the diaphragm assembly as it comes apart. Here are my results. By the way, she called these her unruly horns as many did not work. First off was to check continuity. I found it best to clean the backside before disassembly, by giving it a quick shot in the bead blast cabinet. Next was to check continuity between the electrical connector tab and the rivet taking the current inside the horn. That is where the biggest problem was. I found that rotating the tab back and forth slightly would crush the corrosion. I also put a few drops of wd40 rust dissolver on that rivet, and worked the corner of a razor blade around the corrosion. The connection was fixed.

So, if you're searching for "clutch fork" damn! This happened to me too. I installed a new clutch for my restoration on my 6/71 240z. Finally got to the long awaited stage of engine installation. It went well, until I got underneath the car to torque the bolts and bumped the clutch fork and thought why is it so loose?? It was almost at the end of its throw before the throw out bearing contacted the clutch springs. That's when I searched for "clutch fork" Exactly the thread I was looking for. So, I've installed many clutches in John Deere forestry equipment. The manuals always give you the distance from the flywheel to the diaphragm springs. These springs are adjustable. You bolt your pressure plate down, measure the distance, and if adjustments need to be made, you unbolt it, and adjust, until you get it right. After reading this thread, I realized I had to pull the engine out and see what's up. I adapted my Deere gauge for this Datsun, measured the distance from the flywheel to the diaphragm spring. I reinstalled my old clutch (1981) and measured that. I installed my old pressure plate with the new disc and measured that. The problem is in the service manual they use 'distance pieces' instead of a clutch disc. I do not know how thick those are. I should have measured how thick my new throwout bearing is and my old one, but I didn't. I ended up putting the 2 washers behind the pivot ball and am happy with the results, but still don't know why I had to. Is it the combination of resurfacing the flywheel and the new throw out bearing where I lost the distance, I don't know.

View Advert Wanted: 71 240z front left bumperette rubber I'm looking for the bumperette rubber for the left front bumper, 1971 Offered by: Parman Date 10/26/2024 Price $123 Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z

Alright, I was totally wrong about these headlight scoops. I thought since it was thicker, it would be shorter on the inside curve. When I measured it, it was exactly the same as my thinner bucket, so I didn't touch it. Although they vary in thickness and weight, they fit pretty much the same. Some kind of manufacturing genius. Instead I focused on the center valance as my problem. And that is was. The body work done on it had it curved in at the ends. I got one from resurrected classics, and was so glad when I pulled it out of the box, that it was straight and my hunch was correct. Had to modify the holes a bit on the ends but I'm very happy with it!

It turns out it is part of a velcro system for holding the carpet in place. Here's a shot of some original carpet with the velcro attache.

Yes, I realize there are 3 velcro strips around the tub for the cover, but that black rectangular piece is what I was looking at. I guess I DID get a picture of it inadvertently during my dismantling. It was on the opposite side of the one on the gray car. So, there's supposed to be 2 of them, I think.

Yes, I realize there are 3 velcro strips around the tub for the cover, but that black rectangular piece is what I was looking at.

Unfortunately, I can't live with it the way it is. It's noticeable on both ends of the corner valance. I appreciate all the responses, without this group, I would have never come this far.

I found this photo on bringatrailer... What is this, and why is it there?

Thanks for getting me thinking about shaving off the inside, again. That was my first thought, but my DA sander wouldn't reach the center area. A die grinder would be hard to make it uniform with a small bit, however, I have a 7" flappy disc that would reach in there and get everything but a small corner. That would make quick work of it, and be nice and uniform. I could use the die grinder on that corner area followed by a file. Thanks Patcon! Richard

Hi all, I took apart my 1971 240Z 3 years ago, and even though I took lots of photos and documented almost everything, I can't figure out where this felt pad was glued onto. It's cross stitched so it's something special...anybody recognize it?

I found another variation in the FRP fender extensions (sugar scoop), when trying the get my corner valance to line up. After several tries, I finally realized the culprit was the sugar scoop itself. My original one was cracked so bad, I sourced another one. They are not the same. The radius where the corner valance butts up behind is 1/10th of an inch thicker, making the length of that radius shorter. My original 6/71 scoop is about .14" thick. The other one is .24" thick. In fact, the entire scoop may be thicker. One weighs in at 1 lb. The other weighs about 2.3lbs. Now to figure what date the thicker one came off of.

I would love to have them. PM sent, Richard