Shawninvancouver

Yeah, that I think I just grabbed that photo off the Internet and I don’t even know if it’s on a 240 I think it would be super impossible to pull that return spring off also and also my clevis pin is not like a bolt on the end it is round so I cannot get any pliers on the end of the clevis pin so the only way is to push it out or to pry it out, but I could not pry it on the end I cannot get a screwdriver in there on the head end and I cannot push it out on the pin, but I did not try wiggling the pedal and pushing it. I should have my friend push the Clutch cylinder from the other side and wiggle it while I’m trying to push the pin out and maybe it will come out, but this is a very difficult pin to get out

How do you turn the Clevis pin 180° if you cannot even get a vice grip or needle those players or any type of players in there to grab a hold of the stupid clevis pin how are you supposed to turn it? This was something I spent so much time on and never spent so much time on any stupid thing before is trying to get one little pin out, I was almost at the point. I was going to take a prybar and stick it in there with some leverage to push the bloody pin out, but if it was grooved and I wasn’t gonna come out, it would’ve just freaking bent the whole rod of the clutch pedal.

Has anyone dealt with that when changing a clutch cylinder ?? Do you need to take rod off pedal?? Or can existing rod go into new cylinder ???

Like I said though. I had a flat head screwdriver up against pin where cotter pin came out of and pryed on it as hard as I could with leverage and the pin would not even pop out. I’m assuming it’s rusted in there somehow. But then what do I do to get it out ????

Ohh. Patcon. Not welded. Just sort of fused over time. I pryed on it so hard. Did not wiggle pedal while doing it. It’s a hard pin to get out. And how do you get it back in. The whole clutch rod that goes to cylinder was rusted like mad.

I am trying to remove the clutch pedal so I can remove the clutch master cylinder. I have removed the small cotter pin in the clevis pen, but the clavus pin will not come out. It is welded shut inside the hole through the clutch pedal. Has anyone ever encountered this? It is impossible. I put a screwdriver inside and wedged it up against a pin and pushed as hard as I couldn’t pin would not come out what now I did not take any photos but looks like this my clevis pin has a round head unlike one in photo I had my head jammed under the dash for an hour how does anyone get these pins in and out???

Any ideas ?

Is it possible to load the clutch cylinder and bleed the clutch without lifting the car putting the car on blocks and just doing it by the top on the engine I can see the bleed nipple and the bleed screw by just leaning over the passenger side of the front fender I can see it under the transmission. Can you bleed it that way ???

Just to close this thread, I finally got the car started. It did start fine. It had spark the whole time and started apparently the distributor was 180° out of whack. Somehow we took the distributor out rotated the flywheel 180° until we had compression stroke again put the distributor back in and twisted it finally turned over so he is trying this and can’t get their car started. It is usually distributor issue and it usually has to do with the spark plug order and where the rotor is pointing to good luck to all others trying to start their car keep going and they will get eventually get started.

Cool video. Thats shows it very clear. I hope I can pull this off. I’m hoping the distributor just needed to be adjusted. Never even trying moving it all last time trying to start the car.

Ahh next time I have time to mess around with this thing hopefully in the next few days, I will rotate the distributor so the rotator is pointing directly at one plug, and that will be number one. I think I never had the rotator pointing directly at one plug, I will try that then I’ll figure that I’ll make sure the points are opening at that point in time and that should be.

Ok. And once that is set go back to points and adjust them so they are just starting to open as the rotator gets to that plug it’s pointing to ?!

Does it matter which one you rotate it to ??

Ok. But no one every answered - what if the rotor is pointing between two plugs ?

Ya. I posted a bad photo as I never took one when both lobes were up. We specifically looked to make sure they’re both up like rabbit ears. There were two of us standing there, and we both looked at them and they were both up as high as they could go, we also looked inside spark plug hole number one to see if the piston was up and it was so I was assuming that was as much as we could see for to be at tdc. Is that not the only two things we were looking for cam lobes one and two up as high as can go and the piston to be up and then tdc???