Shawninvancouver

Yeah, that I think I just grabbed that photo off the Internet and I don’t even know if it’s on a 240 I think it would be super impossible to pull that return spring off also and also my clevis pin is not like a bolt on the end it is round so I cannot get any pliers on the end of the clevis pin so the only way is to push it out or to pry it out, but I could not pry it on the end I cannot get a screwdriver in there on the head end and I cannot push it out on the pin, but I did not try wiggling the pedal and pushing it. I should have my friend push the Clutch cylinder from the other side and wiggle it while I’m trying to push the pin out and maybe it will come out, but this is a very difficult pin to get out

How do you turn the Clevis pin 180° if you cannot even get a vice grip or needle those players or any type of players in there to grab a hold of the stupid clevis pin how are you supposed to turn it? This was something I spent so much time on and never spent so much time on any stupid thing before is trying to get one little pin out, I was almost at the point. I was going to take a prybar and stick it in there with some leverage to push the bloody pin out, but if it was grooved and I wasn’t gonna come out, it would’ve just freaking bent the whole rod of the clutch pedal.

Has anyone dealt with that when changing a clutch cylinder ?? Do you need to take rod off pedal?? Or can existing rod go into new cylinder ???

Like I said though. I had a flat head screwdriver up against pin where cotter pin came out of and pryed on it as hard as I could with leverage and the pin would not even pop out. I’m assuming it’s rusted in there somehow. But then what do I do to get it out ????

Ohh. Patcon. Not welded. Just sort of fused over time. I pryed on it so hard. Did not wiggle pedal while doing it. It’s a hard pin to get out. And how do you get it back in. The whole clutch rod that goes to cylinder was rusted like mad.

I am trying to remove the clutch pedal so I can remove the clutch master cylinder. I have removed the small cotter pin in the clevis pen, but the clavus pin will not come out. It is welded shut inside the hole through the clutch pedal. Has anyone ever encountered this? It is impossible. I put a screwdriver inside and wedged it up against a pin and pushed as hard as I couldn’t pin would not come out what now I did not take any photos but looks like this my clevis pin has a round head unlike one in photo I had my head jammed under the dash for an hour how does anyone get these pins in and out???

Any ideas ?

Is it possible to load the clutch cylinder and bleed the clutch without lifting the car putting the car on blocks and just doing it by the top on the engine I can see the bleed nipple and the bleed screw by just leaning over the passenger side of the front fender I can see it under the transmission. Can you bleed it that way ???

Just to close this thread, I finally got the car started. It did start fine. It had spark the whole time and started apparently the distributor was 180° out of whack. Somehow we took the distributor out rotated the flywheel 180° until we had compression stroke again put the distributor back in and twisted it finally turned over so he is trying this and can’t get their car started. It is usually distributor issue and it usually has to do with the spark plug order and where the rotor is pointing to good luck to all others trying to start their car keep going and they will get eventually get started.

Cool video. Thats shows it very clear. I hope I can pull this off. I’m hoping the distributor just needed to be adjusted. Never even trying moving it all last time trying to start the car.

Ahh next time I have time to mess around with this thing hopefully in the next few days, I will rotate the distributor so the rotator is pointing directly at one plug, and that will be number one. I think I never had the rotator pointing directly at one plug, I will try that then I’ll figure that I’ll make sure the points are opening at that point in time and that should be.

Ok. And once that is set go back to points and adjust them so they are just starting to open as the rotator gets to that plug it’s pointing to ?!

Does it matter which one you rotate it to ??

Ok. But no one every answered - what if the rotor is pointing between two plugs ?

Ya. I posted a bad photo as I never took one when both lobes were up. We specifically looked to make sure they’re both up like rabbit ears. There were two of us standing there, and we both looked at them and they were both up as high as they could go, we also looked inside spark plug hole number one to see if the piston was up and it was so I was assuming that was as much as we could see for to be at tdc. Is that not the only two things we were looking for cam lobes one and two up as high as can go and the piston to be up and then tdc???

Ok zed. Well explained. Thanks for being pacient with me. One other crazy question what happens if when I put the distributor cap on the rotor is in between two plugs which one is number one the one before or the one after or do I have to rotate the cap and until the rotor is pointed directly at one plug? This always seems to happen when I get the cap on the rotor is never directly at one. It’s always either before one or after one and I can ever figure out which one is number one ? And also like you say once, I determine that and the compression stroke is at the top, I have to make it so that the points are just starting to open that is easily adjustable I guess. thanks again.

Starter spray was sprayed in carb. Air filter was off. Carb piston was up and sprayed right through in to engine. I’ve got to be 99% sure we had tdc correct. Valve cover was off and cam 1 2 was up like rabbit ears like everyone said. Can the cams be up like rabbit ears and be on the wrong stroke? Can ears be up and it be on exhaust stroke? I swear my pal said he saw piston at top. are these ears up??

Starter spray was sprayed in carb. Air filter was off. Carb piston was up and sprayed right through in to engine. I’ve got to be 99% sure we had tdc correct. Valve cover was off and cam 1 2 was up like rabbit ears like everyone said. Can the cams be up like rabbit ears and be on the wrong stroke? Can ears be up and it be on exhaust stroke? I swear my pal said he saw piston at top.

Ok zed I will do that. But can you just answer the question I still don’t understand. If the dizzy is slightly rotated wrong will the engine not start ?? Not even backfire or misfire. ?? Just no signs of starting. !! Then if I slightly rotate the dizzy it will start??

I know how the points open and close I know how to set them. I just forgot that when I flipped the distributor over I forgot to do that. my only other question was should the point be open or closed when engine Is it top dead centre and the rotor is pointing at spark plug number one is there any instance where the point should be open or closed or anything specifically about that?

OK and the points should open and close anytime specifically or just as her rotating the crankshaft the points will just open and close??? do they have to open when the engine is a top dead centre anytime specifically or not just opening and closing as a crankshaft is turning?? I actually thought about it after and did realize that when I flipped the mounting bracket on the distributor and turn the distributor around so that the vacuum seal desk was pointing towards the left fender, I never reset the points so I must’ve had to regap and set and check the points and check them, which I did not do so maybe the points were off the whole time. I was trying to start the car.

OK, so you suggest flipping the mounting bracket back to the way it was having the distributor vacuum advance. Back to the engine and then try the whole system over again top dead centre see where the rotors pointing and then that will be number one this time and that will make a difference. ??

240 flipping the mounting bracket around changes the direction of the vacuum advance disc from pointing to the engine to pointing to the left fender. Once this is done the and the engine is top dead centre when the lid is on the distributor, the rotor points to the mark on the distributor cap, which is number one, which is at 8:30 if we flip the mounting bracket back to normal on the distributor, the rotor will point to the other side, which would be 3 o’clock so changing the mounting bracket does change where things point maybe zed head he can chime in here I thought the mounting bracket would be in the wrong place because when it the vacuum advance disc is pointing towards the engine, the tube actually jams into one of the other pipes and it doesn’t even look like it fits there we have another car in the garage with a working distributor and his distributor has the vacuum and bath disk pointing towards the left fender that’s why I thought it would be the proper way to have it pointed all the other ones that I’ve seen also have the vacuum advanced to left fender not pointing towards the engine So once again once the engine is at top dead centre the rotor will either point to 830 or point to 2 oclock depending which way the vac advance is pointing photo of how it was before flipping bracket.

240. I took off the plate in the photo. Then just flipped it around and put it back on. Then the vacuum advanced disc was pointing down towards the left fender instead of towards the engine after he did that we had the valve cover off. We had the one and two camshafts pointing up like rabbit ears had the piston at the top so he assumed it was top dead centre when we put the distributor rotor back on it was pointing at 8:30. We were pretty sure that was top dead center. We put the spark plugs on properly and was getting spark. Reassume that spark should fire the engine but nothing ever happened. It’s very possible it was flooded. We never checked the spark plugs. I did drain the float bowl and then try to gain, but nothing happened. should I loosen the mounting bracket on the distributor and rotate it like the air in the photo?

OK, so I guess I was wrong then to think that once I saw spark on every cylinder in the spark plug tester that my spark was proper, and that should have started the engine so technically, even though I saw spark in the spark plug tester that does not mean that the engine would start is that correct? I still need to align the distributor so that the points were about to open and that the rotor arrow was pointing at spark plug number one. In my case, not being an expert, would it be the best way just to slightly rotate the distributor and keep trying to start the car and see if I get it close enough to start And if someone has a second, maybe they can explain to me why if I am seeing spark and have fuel in the engine, it would not start or even backfire or misfire or do something, but I was not getting any sign of even close to starting Is that based on the fact that the distributor was out of alignment thanks again should I loosen the distributor mounting bracket and rotate it like the arrows in the photo?