Richie G

One thing I wanted to correct for future reference for those that still may need to do this. After I posted these pics i was looking at the car and noticed the corner really didn't have as tight a seal as it should. What i realized is that I forgot to put the rubber shims back around the corner to "build it up" before attaching the new channel seal. If you can see here in the original picture the rubber kind of disappears from the pic on the corner because it wasn't really a great seal. i could actually push on it and it would retreat into the opening leaving a bit of an air gap i didn't like. Here's an updated pic with the window replaced and a rubber shim under the corner section The seal is now correct and you can't push the rubber in like I could before. Hope this helps the next guy.

Great job!

@Patcon Thanks, those top corner seals were tough to find, had to go to Norm at Zeddsaver. He's got good stuff but a bit on the pricey side. Little by little im getting through the entire interior. Lots left to do but very enjoyable. Next big thing is tackling some poke throughs in the floor boards. The PO decided it was best to just lay a new soundproof over the original without taking care of the surface rust underneath. Well you can guess how that turned out lol. I don't think the holes will be large enough to require new pans but we'll see.

They got the wheels, pillar emblems, and single side mirror right but missed the hatch vents. If this was Bring a Trailer that crowd would be trashing them LOL.

I literally just finished the driver side yesterday and here's some pics. The precision rubbers work great if you are patient and steady. You won't break the glass if you apply even pressure inward and towards the rear at the same time. i was able to do this by myself put using one hand to press on the glass and the other to set the screws by reaching around. The trick is as mentioned, set the glass about 1 inch or so forward of the screw holes and the trick is to get the corner peice set first. Only set enough screw to catch them move on to the bottom back then two front. Remember to only set the screw enough so it catches at first then move on to the remaining screws so you have wiggle room to move it until all 4 are caught then you can easily tighten down.

swflaz i highly recommend any one of the dry ice methods of removing tar based sound deadening. you can google many videos on youtube. Some use the alcohol method others just drop the ice straight on if its small enough pellets. What happens is the dry ice quick flash freezes the tar and its so brittle it come up in sheets. the ice sublimates (straight to gas) so its no mess really just a little wipe down. Beats the hell out of scraping with a screw driver or any of the heat it up methods and all that sticky mess. one of dozens if not hundreds of examples

The plot thickens lol.

I guess it just strikes me as odd that they would print the name backwards if you want to call it that when so much thought went into the design of the car itself.

About 10 minutes after I posted this I thought the same thing LOL. Just odd that they would etch the inside of one of them and the outside of the other And PO is prior owner.

Started a restoral process on my quarter windows and noticed that it seems the passenger window has the Nissan stamp "reversed". With all this PO has done wrong I'm wondering if he took two driver side pieces and made a passenger out of one of them. Or maybe the factory only had one version of the glass and flipped them on the passenger side for convenience.

About to do my windows, trying to determine if the main outer seal goes on frame first, then this corner piece over top or the small corner piece first then the main rubber? i have a couple of the upper corner pieces on the way but not in hand yet to see what makes the most sense. I'm guessing the main rubber then the corner fits in the channel of the main rubber?

Tooting is good! The plating does have a bit of that rainbow / green tint it's just bad led lighting in the wife's bathroom 🙂

Thanks so much Euro! Appreciate the guidance.

Reading this thread and it inspired me to work on my horns. I have a pair nicely plated that was going in the car when I noticed the older ones were a different style. Did a quick search but didn't really see anything leading to the difference. I'm hoping the plated ones are appropriate for the 6/71 and was wondering what the right color was for the inner front and back non plated sections. I'm assuming the plated pair is right since the frame has two holes for mounting. The PO used this straight metallic plate and single mount point.

I'm pretty sure it was but looking back at my records it was actually purchased late 21 not this year but I just got around to replacing it due to a back surgery. Maybe they have changed the mold or something to make them slightly different? This was the part number for outer https://www.thezstore.com/product/5487/rear-deck-outer-weatherstrip-one-piece-top-sides-70-78-240z-260z-280z-coupe and this was the inner https://www.thezstore.com/product/5735/reproduction-rear-deck-inner-weatherstrip-70-78-240z-260z-280z-coupe I bought this car in early 21 and the PO had fubar'd lots of stuff I'm just getting to. To be honest I didn't note the hatch being off line a tad before I replaced this so maybe he also had a precision and somehow shimmed the hinges to accommodate. When I replaced my seals I didn't take the hatch or hinges off since it was only me and my recent surgery wouldn't allow for that much weight.

I must have gotten lucky because I recently bought the inner and outer seal from Z store and they both fit perfectly with just the 3m adhesive. the outer seal was the single seal bulb that went all the way around rather than the separate top and two sides they offer like original. I have no issues closing hatch and it lines up almost perfect. It is a tad higher as you can see but no where near enough to not latch.

Any idea if they will ever make a series 2 with proper venting holes to match original look?

Richard that's awesome. For the license plate when I first showed it to my wife she jokes around and says most people will think it's farty not forty

Wanted to close this out with a final pic of the results. Taken in pretty much full sun so has a little reflection on it but I'm super happy with results. Even took the opportunity to get the right push rivets (realized after the initial install the PO had used interior ones) and I refreshed the metal clips on the bottom.

A quick check I'm able to browse to my profile and to other people's profiles from my Android phone don't have the opportunity to check it from a PC yet. I can also navigate to recent posts from my profile without the dreaded spinning wheel. Things are certainly improving thanks mike.

Same here. I also just noticed I can't go to anyone's profile not just mine. Same error as on my own page.

Just wanted to post some progress. Tested the method with the center section, love the results. Thanks again to all!

Do you plan on making the other version with valve stem under the slot? If I'm not mistaken under slot is the version 2 for late 70 and early 71.

OK so its not just me something is going on. Love the site so please don't take this request as a complaint. Hoping Mike can get to it once he has time.

I hate posting this here, total no no but I've been after site support and moderator support for like 3 months to fix this. Can't view my profile, get this nonsense Anyone get any luck in getting site issues fixed? I'm a paying member no less, a bit frustrating. [[Template core/front/profile/profile is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]]