Richie G

Zed i actually tried that by using my floor jack under the cross member and its like 2 inches too short to get the ramps under fully 😞 Are you saying one tire at a time? If so can you show me where exactly? In the meantime I had an idea how to brace them with something but I'm open to anything.

ok so i just went out and set my ramps, started it up. the beauty is it starts and runs so nice!. The crappy part was my ramps are sliding all over the place as I gently inch forward. I have a typical smooth concrete floor that had some old garage floor pain applied to it. By no means slick, but certainly not rough. the tires get a bit up and they squirt out leaving skid marks where the rubber bad is on the low end. Any tips on getting up there? I've seen videos and all of them show them placing the ramps under the tires without any "run up" room between tire and ramp edge.

Zed good point on the hose option, I'd love to be able to just crank this a bit but it's so odd that all this time it just all of a sudden dripped. Its been idle in the garage without a start since November, I do all that tank and engine hose work and pow it leaks for the first time not on my first start up but on my second or third. I doubt I put any real pressure on it when connecting new hose to the filter from fuel line but you never know. Its pretty far down the line to think touching either the tank supply end or the filter end would loosen a compression fitting. And Site yes I have the rhino ramps too, just got them a few months ago so this will be the first attempt at using them. I'm thinking a quick start and roll up onto them and then shut off real quick. How long you think I can leave the car on there without fear of compression to those ramps?

I like the cut it out and fuel hose idea. That's probably the best thing for my skill level at the moment. I just have to safely get under there over the next few days, will report back. Thanks all for good advice. This community is great.

Thanks Patcon, that makes me feel better. The leak is a drip a minute or so but I can see gravity emptied the fuel filter so it may have just slowed itself as it levels out. This was one of my original problems so I guess i finally found the source. I suspect it's sucking air as well because prior to my all new hoses and filter I would see air bubbles in the filter. Funny though when i started it the other day all the bubbles were gone but maybe it's slight enough I can't see them. I'll start it up again to see. Its carbs, original SUs. I gave it some thought last night and am going to attempt to get under and at least see if I can repair the fittings temporarily. I would love to do a new line but I'm afraid at this stage in my learning dropping tranny and anything else in the way in the tunnel is beyond me without bringing it somewhere. I have a floor jack at home and just ordered some stands from amazon. I also have ramps but not sure they will give me enough height. If i decide to jack and stand this is this the right spot on the cross member? I assume the flat plate is the jack point and then I put the stands left / right of it? The stands I thought would be best have flat tops rather than the curved ones. I got them becasue they had a nice locking pin and much wider tripod base. Looking at the cross member though with all those cutouts I'm wondering if I'll be ok?

Some of you may have seen my other post about vapor hose replacement. That was a great success, replaced all the vent hoses and both tank side and engine side fuel hoses, new filter, new tank sending unit, filled the tank everything works great and started on first key turn. Now the horror story. So that was a few days ago and my next task was to change the oil and filter. So I peak under there today to start the process and see a nice drip spot rear side of engine. I'm thinking its maybe a rear seal that dried out as the oil has been in the pan for quite some time (hasn't started since November). Well It's way worse. I found the PO had repaired the hard fuel line just where it turns into the tunnel and its dripping gas. I have no real means to lift this car and with dripping fuel I'm scared to even start it again. After all the hurdles I went through I'm really bummed and not sure what to do. I can barely reach this through the engine bay to even attempt to tighten it. Is there anything I can do other than maybe tow this to someone that can replace or repair the line? I could probably get some type of putty around the whole thing as a temporary patch if that's even safe to drive?

Ok, finally after all this time got the hoses and the canister back in. Wasn't as bad as I expected except for all the bruises on my forearms from under the car 🙂 I was actually able to do all of it end to end without removing the tank. I pulled the shield and I'm skinny enough to fit under there and even reach between the rear body panel and the tank to get the dreaded bent hose on. There was just enough give in the body panel that i could keep it far enough away from the tank that a hand could get in there. Then used a real long screwdriver to tighten the clamp. When I get it up and started again we'll see if it holds 🙂 Here's the final product. Thanks everyone for all the advice and help along the way. And the door spring trick worked incredibly well.

Just finished restoring my tail lights and one thing I did may help people so I'll pass it on. Not really mind blowing but useful :-). When I took them out I noticed the "melted plastic" I'll call it that retained the nut and cap for each hole was so brittle it wouldn't hold the nuts in anymore. Half or more of the 16 total nuts were falling out the back because the plastic the factory melted over was dried out and nearly gone. It's a miracle the PO didn't lose these lights honestly. Went to home depot got this fix it putty I've used in the yard to stop PVC leaks and it was excellent at repairing each nut placement. It even dried an exact match to the color of the plastic housing. What was nice was it was pliable and easy to mold before it hardened, unlike some of the epoxies that become a mess too quickly. I didn't want anything liquid that would seep through to the nuts and ruin the threads so this was the perfect consistency. I had to use a little of it on the inner side as well and it really did a great overall job strengthening the integrity of each hole.

Wow that wd40 did a great job. I'm going to follow your method when I do mine in a few weeks. From my initial inspection it looks like I have the same areas of rust as you and probably half the people on here lol. Heating the tar mat going down all depends on what product you buy I guess. I used kilmat 100 ml which was a great price to performance ratio for me. The only down side is it's not really paintable because of the foil backing. It's super easy to go down though, can be cut with metal shears like butter and has a peel and stick application approach. You'll use a little muscle rolling it all down properly but I was real happy how the trunk area came out. i used that por patch and was super impressed how hard it set up. One lesson i learned is be sparing if you intend to sand and paint over it as it's a bit tough to totally smooth down if you aren't careful. When I removed the glue from the trunk area the goo b gone worked well wnough i didn't really have to sand much if at all. Good luck show us the results.

I sure hope so after all the effort I've been putting in. Did the vapor side too, now just need to get all the hoses back in place then i'll do the deck and on to the mid section The kilmat stuff is pretty easy to work with, even the rolling wasnt all that bad. I just wish it was paintable but I keep telling myself to set expectations. I can get ahead of myself with all the great ideas to bring it back to fully original. Then reality sets in but i think i'm learning to live with the balance.

Thanks. I think your antenna is a bit shorter than mine. Your bracket was what I had with it but it was way too long to get anywhere near the right angle I needed. The more I learn about these cars I am amazed at how ingenious most of the design was. From what I've come across in my limited tinkering, this setup is one of those could have been better items. but nothing beats the dreaded gas tank vent bends and twists. There is so many better ways to make those hose connection straight you would think 🙂

Bingo! Had an old pice of angle iron and lucked into an odd shape that worked perfectly. I thought I'd be bending for 20 mins but only second attempt. First attempt was an L and there just wasn't enough clearance for the wingnut. This must have been an extra father's day gift cause I never expected it to be so easy lol. Finished work.

OK, made some progress after scouring the site and some ebay listings. I found that the last two bottom pieces were in the wrong order. Also found the right orientation of the rubber seal and was able to mount it loosly screwed into the mast. Now I also see the longer bracket he gave me was for the "shorter" harada bullet tip antenna, no wonder it was impossible to connect with it. I must have the next series antenna which is longer and has a much longer antenna cord. Seems that type only requires a small L shaped bracket to get on the post. If anyone has a picture of what the bracket should look like on my type of antenna please upload.

I found a NOS pointy tip about a year or so ago and just getting around to install it in my 6/71. It's a pain in the arse let me tell you. I'm either way off or something is missing. Does anyone have picture of the original setup and also what the bracket looks like? Here is a picture of the antenna as I received it, are these pieces at the top in the right order? Assuming they are, when i try to put it in the toothed half wheel seems too small for the hole in the panel and keeps coming up through no matter what i do to steady it for the washer and nut.. I must be missing something because it's near impossible to orient these with only the two hands God gave me lol. Even when I get close, the bracket I was sent with it seems way too long and I can't get that onto the bottom or the wing nut bolt in the body. Anmy help super appreciated.

Thanks guys. So adding it under the vinyl on the towers didn't affect the placement of the vinyl? No issues with it not sitting right after adding? I'm open to adding it where it makes sense and will do as much as i possibly can. Oh and the wheel well, having a full size tire in there doesnt dampen the sound? I can see when empty its a serious resonator, but all that weight and it being rubber no less doesn't do the job?

I've undertaken an interior restoration and taking it as far as I can based on my skills. Starting with the rear I stripped it all down to the bare metal, did my por 15 and repaint, and am now ready to put the sound deadener back. I chose kilmat 100 for a decent price to performance ratio before I really got into this effort. After I've painted the bare metal it looks so nice I'm almost hesitant to put the shiny stuff down rather than something more original I could paint. While I struggle with that decision lol, I'm wondering if I can get some opinions on where to put the new stuff in the deck area. I've already decided the original location a must plus the vapor tank and antenna areas before I put those items back in. Now on to the rest, do you guys advise putting under the vinyl on the wheel wells and shock tower? In the spare tire well, along the side near the quarter panel windows, etc? I realize the more I do the more weight I add but this isn't really a racer and all these other spots are mostly hidden other than the tire well so only I'd know (but then again i'd know lol).

I just stripped all the tar from my deck in a 71 and lo and behold lots of surface rust where there was zero indication. It's worth chipping up if you want to do it right. One tip, use the dry ice method rather than hammer chissel or whatever brute force you go with. It comes up incredibly easily with zero mess as the ice passes straight to gas. I did my whole trunk in maybe an hr or less with very large pieces just popping off after they froze. Just wear protective gloves and a mask or keep the doors open so you don't get so much C02. There's plenty of you tube videos on dry ice tar mat / sound deadener removal.

my link to newco was great, had it in like a week. 1 meter section was $49 plus $27 shipping to CA.

Sorry, i see my chart it was the one thing i missed. Its from Newco BLACK BRAIDED HOSE BB-038 M19X4.4 https://www.newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4053 I corrected the chart now in my original post.

Thanks, it took a while but worth it. So for my chart I grouped hoses of the same ID size since most places you buy a hose its precut to a certain length or you can buy it by the ft. The left side of the chart is all about the hose you need to buy, the right side is about new 2 wire clamps (if you need them). Here's an example, if you buy qty 1 jbugs N203761 at 3 ft length it will cover the 4 places on your car on the left of it in the chart (tank supply to hard line, hard line to filter, out of filter to mechanical pump, out of pump to rail). All of those hoses are the same ID from tank to rail. if you buy qty 1 that ebay item (only sells 5 ft) then you can replace the 2 hoses from rail to carb. Thats 6 hose sections in the car overall for the 2 lengths/parts of hose listed. Then on the right I matched the OD for those two hose types and they all will fit in the z car depot part 200-476 clamp. Thats why on the right they are grouped like that qty 12 (6 hose sections x 2 clamps). Hopefully that makes sense now. Of course this assumes you wanted to replace all fuel / vapor hoses tank, engine, etc like I need to.

Good timing on this question as I was just going to update the group on my progress. I havent actually put any of the hoses in yet as I got distracted once I saw the condition of the old sound deadening and wheel well. I figured that all needed to be dealt with first so I stripped the entire back of the car and went to town. Once I got it all up I found that most of it was just surface rust from trapped moisture. The wheel well had some small pitted spots and a few poke through but nothing big enough to get a finger through. Everything was sound so I got some POR 15 patch and paint and ground it all down, prepped it, filled it, POR painted it, sanded it and finally finished it with one stage spray cans since I don't have a sprayer or air supply or anything resembling professional gear. Before I get to before and after pictures, back to the hoses. I found that some of the supplied information just wasn't working for me so I sourced a few different items to better fit what I needed. I had started by looking for things pre-shaped for some of the funky bends before knowing the spring door trick (which is awesome). So I had already purchased from Z Car Depot the bent hose for the front vent. Since I had that in hand the rest of the shopping list diverted a bit from recommended. The biggest issue I had was that the 17 MM recommendation for the filler vent just would not fit. I had to get a 19 MM hose which now fits perfectly. So in summary here is my shopping list and what I had purchased from a length perspective, some out of need, some out of direct measurement. I also had a need for all new clamps as the PO had a hornets nest of crap everywhere. Hope this helps people starting from scratch. Now to the fun stuff, some pics!. Before Midway Done Next up the Kilmat I chose and then I'll start dealing with putting it back together and the tank. Will update group when I do.

One thing I can comment on the POR patch product is amazing. Might be a good option for you. While I've been dealing with the exhaust hoses I've been dealing with surface rust under the old sound deadening and in the spare tire well. Grinding out that rust made a few pee and dime-sized holes the POR patch did a great job super easy to use rock hard and now I'm taking the POR paint and doing the entire deck area before laying down new sound deadening.

I'm not knowledgeable enough to help out here (yet!), still dealing with changing out my own vent hoses. Did want to comment on one thing though, I too will miss that mix of vinyl and vapor smells when I'm done lol. My 5 year old and I open the car door and stick our heads in to catch a whiff every now and then.

Super clear and appreciated as usual. Thanks to all of you that helped me along the way. My current situation may not allow for all of this right away but at least I have a plan now.

Tex I saw that kit last year and initially was like whoa thats expensive for rubber hoses lol plus my ambitions to try and make some things more correct wouldn't let me use those clamps. I actually ordered the engine bay only kit initially from him though and when it arrived it had super bright white lettering all down the sides of the hose. It didn't look right to me so I returned it. Now that I sourced from JBUGS the tank side and the engine bay hoses I got from Newco i've been sitting on the price isn't so off. I had contacted him a few days ago to try and just get the bent hose and he refused to break up a set claiming he works too hard on these. I said doing what, cutting the straight pieces and buying those off the shelf clamps? If he focused on that bent hose or two for a reasonable price he'd sell way more I would think.