Richie G

I'm thinking now these new switches come with the one wire attached to the housing for applications where the body ground isn't available by contact with a metal surface like the door jamb. So if you insert this in some plastic piece you can supply ground to the switch via that soldered wire to complete the grounding circuit.

Just wanted to finish up what I started. My issue was the new door switch the PO put in. To recap, it was a two wire and both wires were connected properly to the ground wires for the dome light and the buzzer circuit. What the issue was, and I can't understand how the PO didn't address this, was that these new door switches have one wire on constant ground. That was the wire he had connected to the buzzer. He had the switched ground luckily enough connected to the dome light. So all I did was change the second wire to switched All is right and the buzzer that is straight from hell works as it should!

Ive tried to measure and im pretty close to your measurements. Now I dont have a protractor, just some chopsticks and a square lol but my differential was about 20-21 degrees similar to yours. I'm sure the measurements you're taking are more accurate. when i put it up against my LH mirror its near identical in range but the older one doesnt move as easily so I'm sure if they were both new they would be exact.

It will probably be a while till I get either seat in but I can try and do some measurements either later today or over the weekend will report back here

@CanTechZ maybe not as much as I should have lol. Honestly for me it was two things the Aesthetics of it and sure the usability I haven't installed it yet plus my seats are out for some floorboard repair so I probably really won't know until I get everything all back together again I'm sure it must be better than the one I had before maybe not perfect but probably about as good as it's going to get for a guy like me.

@KenFirch i was able to yes. I left the glass all the way up and if you are skinny enough like me you can slide your hand / forearm in and reach it. For me I used the largest hole closest to the front of the door right below the small window channel and the mirror itself. I reached in horizontally as if i was trying to reach for the lock side of the door on the bottom. Once the arm was in i just rotated the elbow until my arm was 90 degrees up right under the mirror. Single bolt with a small driver and was good to go.

OK so I stumbled on this old thread, dipped my toes in, and BINGO its the elusive unicorn of mirrors. Its an OEM RH mirror that when placed on our LH cars passenger side is a perfect match to the driver side. his comment about not working on passenger side was in reference to the passenger side of a RH car.

Ok, so like many of us I have been dealing with a previous owner that put a driver side oem mirror on the passenger side. As expected looks close, but useless for actually seeing anything. Well I was contemplating getting a friend to 3d print a new "base" so the stalk would align correctly when you flip the glass around. i was digging through some old posts here about the angle of the stalk etc and came upon this one: and down about halfway was an ebay listing from 2021 showing this mirror and what intrigued me was the RH and part number ending in 2 rather than 1. So i worked out a deal with the guy to get the last one he had even though as @Patcon you wrote "noticed his ad stating won't work on the passenger side". Well my thinking was if this truly is a RH made mirror for those markets then what they mean is the same as what we deal with, you can't buy 2 and flip one to the other side. So i took a shot and BINGO! it actually leans towards the glass a perfect match to the typical driver side ones most of us have. I was so excited to post I forgot to clean my wife's cat hair from the couch! So moral to this story is if you look for that part number you can find the RH OEM mirror, it just takes some luck.

I'll have to fiddle. Add it to the list lol. There's probably a broken pin and roller guide from an arm on the regulator sitting down there too.

@Patcon I just happened to pull the door skin to start doing some work in there and like many others found my roller in the bottom of the door. Question, other than rattle, would this also help keep the glass "straight" as it rolled up? Mine rolls up and down nicely but what happens is the glass kind of tilts toward the front of the car as it comes up and when fully rolled up the top back corner of the glass no longer is fully "sealed" in the sash. you can see a small air gap there. If I guide the window up with my hand as i crank it will sit properly. or do you think i have another issue in the regulator or channels internally? when i get the new one is it simply pry up and then press back down in place?

Yarb I actually have an oem signal flasher that works but its the little button kind that flaps in the wind down there, no mounting bracket. I could zip tie it of course but a pick and pull person I'm working with has a bunch of the old one with brackets they would donate. the problem is I can't find anywhere with hours of searching for the right kind. All i keep finding is the cylindrical ones that have the bracket but they are all the "Gold" kind heavy duty for the hazards or 3 wire for combination relays.

Side question for anyone while I wait to go do the testing. Does anyone have the exact model / specs of the original turn signal relay, the ones that have a mounting bracket? I', thinking they are the silver kind, definitely not heavy duty (those are for hazards) but I can't seem to settle on 23Wx2+3.4W or 23Wx3+3.4 W for the turn signal kind? ive seen some of each and they are both listed as 12.8V and 85 cpm but not sure what load that is based off of etc and what my 71 would put out. I assume the heavier wattage would just slow down the cpm if its the wrong kind?

@SteveJ thanks for confirming will get to checking. @Yarb I think your memory isn't all that bad lol. When I did some research on this site I did see some pictures of three wire door switches probably for the diagram and cars that Steve was mentioning just not mine.

@SteveJ its a 71. I'm a bit of a newbie but to me the door switch has to be providing ground not power (similar to many other non Z cars). I would think this has to be true because my passenger side switch only has 1 wire (other dangling) and the switch body is grounded to the door frame by contact. That side works just fine so if the purpose of the door switch was to provide power up to the light how could it be getting power there? When the switch is depressed it must be making contact internally and then sending body ground up to the light right? If so, I would assume the other side works the same because again i only have two wires on that one and this time on driver side both are connected, 1 to light providing body ground (works fine) the other providing body ground to the buzzer via the key switch (no workie). I had a 71 wiring diagram and I think this confirms it if you take the viewpoint of the buzzer. the yellow line traces all the way back to fuse panel (ties in a couple of places to various other colors) and the red line via the key switch terms at the door switch which would be the grounding to enable the door buzzer right? I'll try to pull the door switch later and see if one of the wires is bad or not all the way connected or something. run some continuity tests if i can. I'm going through all this trouble to eventually just disable it anyway but I like to know how things work and at least have the option for me or the next guy.

here's a quick follow up. the passenger side door switch is two wire but one hangs freely which matches the wiring diagram if the body is self grounding. both door switches work the room light just fine. i can also depress the room light switch and turn it on just fine when the doors are closed. so to me, both door switches and the room light must be working fine and maybe the one black wire from lock switch to driver side door switch must be the issue some how.

@Yarb took a look under there and it is a 2 wire switch that i have. both look connected to black wires. from looking at the wiring diagram i have, the buzzer only has 2 wires red & yellow which i see correctly connected on my car I also see the red connected to the lock switch but can't tell where the black is going from lock switch at the moment. i presume correctly connected to one of door switch black wires but not sure until i really get under there I do see on the wiring diagram it should go to door switch and door switch should go to the passenger door switch then passenger door switch up to room light. Those grounds are they supposed to be showing a 3rd / 2nd wire respectively or are the new two pin type switches self grounding against the body? Maybe my driver side has the two black wires reversed?

@Yarb I'm guessing my door pin is a newer 2 wire one. I'm betting the PO got these from one of the popular sites and probably the wire going to the buzzer wiring is hanging around back there. If so, is there a way to tie that buzzer wire into one of these if indeed it is a 2 pin switch?

@Yarb TY for confirming its the flasher. Can you help me with a suggestion on the wiring issue I have? Buzzer works fine but it does not shut off when the door lighgt sensor is pushed in (door closed). that same sensor on the driver side will shut the dome light so i know at least he has that right. But before i tear stuff apart just looking for advice what to look for and how it would be wired in.

Thanks @kickstand80 if anyone wants to go through the trouble of rekeying their car this guy has a bunch of sets that are for old Cedric and similar non Z cars that can be bought. He's good on dropping prices too, just make an offer. he even polished the keys for me before he sent them. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=auto-parts-sale&store_cat=0&store_name=ukstar76&_oac=1&_nkw=lock He does have some z stuff if needed as well.

Ok so here's the latest. Reinstalled the ignition and it starts the car! yeah, first goal achieved. Oh and while I'm at it, here's a little backstory. This all started because the previous owner had a different key for every lock. I felt like a janitor walking around when i had them with me 🙂 So my goal was to get one of the "cool keys" which just so happen to match the 6/1/71 manual I have for my 6/71 car. It was a B#$%^ to find (not even repro anymore) and getting to work on all the replacements. But, I found a guy in Kuwait of all places that had not only a perfect NOS pair associated to a NOS hatch lock for like $60. I went about re-keying everything and now both doors, glove, ignition, and hatch all work on these NOS keys Thats the good news. A little more good news is that the dreaded buzzer works now so my switch replacement worked too! The bad news is that the driver door doesnt shut it off when closed. Closing the door will shut the dome light as it should but the key just keeps on buzzing. Any ideas where to look for that wiring miss? Oh and after poking around under there, any idea what this is? Certainly new / added by previous owner but not sure what it is. I thought maybe it was the flasher relay. looking at a few other posts this is probably meant to be that as it has the same color wires as below. The PO could have at least zip tied it up to something lol.

While I wait for the paint to dry on this I had noticed a couple of screw holes on the sides of the ignition and forgot to ask what those were for. I noticed on both of my ignitions and older and an earlier one neither of them have any screws in there but I did happen to notice on eBay one that had a pair of screws sitting in it what are those for?

Thanks. I assume then no matter what position the key is in if the driver door is open it will start The Buzz even a running car parked with the door open is going to sound the buzzer? You would think the fact that the car was running would be an alert enough without needing the buzzer to tell you you left the key in the car after all of this I'm sure I will unplug the wires under the dash at some point like everyone else

got it apart not so bad. i had another ignition and pulled the switch from that one to replace this one. will test it out in a few days, thanks @kickstand80 i ran an ohm meter on the bench and do see 0L when no key is present but some odd results when the key is in various positions. how exactly does this work, key in the lock and the door open? any position in the lock and the door open?

I was thinking that but worried about compromising the cylinder underneath. Hoping not to mess that up. I assume cap comes off by prying the two silver tabs out? Very gently i guess lol. I'm going to practice on an old one first.

One of the wires coming out of the ignition switch just gave way and my luck it broke inside the little housing. Is that housing removable does anyone know? It didn't look like it but I diodn't really want to get a screw driver under there and go at it too hard. Any suggestions on how to repair this? I've seen some other ignitions have the wires exposed but of course mine isn't that lucky 😞