dylancorrea1

Link works fine for me! On a form over function I like this one, looks like it’s standard fittings as well. Will do some more research on leak down. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which one of those do you recommend? Im going to stick with barb rubber hose lines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going to look into this regulator. Decided I will be changing the rail for a protunerz rail. When on sale their usually 90 dollars and come with all fittings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can definitely make that rail myself, I saw the last thread on making one. I think the rail is definitely an inflated item. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see, so the FPR maintains the original set up, but you used a T fitting for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would using a OEM regulator help with this problem? I have new one that I have yet to install. Ive seen people run a stock oem regulator on a new aftermarket fuel rail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Definitely, I did some research and picked out a decently priced and reliable regular. That fits in and comes with mounting brackets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked into that, and definitely wanted to do a conversion. Sadly a few months prior I put in a new set of rebuilt injectors and that solved so many problems along with a new pump. So I just wanted to stick with the oem stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My fuel rail has a slight bend to it, nothing major. But I want to redo the entire fuel rail system. With new injector brackets, hardware, lines, filter, regulator,clamps etc. definitely way more of an aesthetic thing, but some functionality along just to make it easier to work on. But I’m still having trouble justifying a large purchase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is getting a new fuel rail worth it? I definitely want to clean up the engine bay and get something prettier in there. I was looking at the godzilla race works rail that comes with a built in gauge. But after doing some price calculations I’m looking at around 380-400 in total price. Was wondering if anyone could shine some light if its worth it or not before pulling the trigger.

I will definitely look into it, but I had it running twice today for about an hour, no problem with throttle super smooth up and down. If the issue reoccurs I will definitely be looking into it. Thank you. I hope the car keeps running good, ordered calipers and brake lines to test it on the road! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh man thank you so much, I actually have one worm clamp on a injector. The box supposedly said was rated for 50psi, but it leaks occasionally. Ill change it out, any recommendations on clamps and gauge? Beautiful bay! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have any pictures of the spot it should be in? Ive seen a few pictures and people differ on where it actually should be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its a 1978, fuel pressure I have yet to check. I was going to get onto that but then I got busy with school and work. I just ordered a gauge to put on and test with. I have the FSM downloaded and EFI bible. I just lack knowledge sometimes. Really appreciate the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last PO opened up the airflow meter, and moved the screw to try and in rich the car. I moved the screw back to where the car ran better and sounded better on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car runs when it wants too, I got it running pretty smooth actually, but can’t test it due to bad front brakes. I adjusted the afm, and got the RPM to a good 1000 when it starts and about 1200 warmed up. The car has a good amount of new parts. Honestly I might upgrade the fuel rail and regulator just to clean up the engine bay. New parts: Fuel pump Full tune up. New radiator Battery Fuzes Alternator Starter Fusible links Ignition switch Ignition coil Battery cables Afm boot Cooling hoses Fuel injectors New down pipe and exhaust. I’m not new new to the car, but definitely not as experienced with a lot of the in-depth technical aspects. I definitely have some sort of fuel issue occasionally as the car will die on steeper inclines, some days it’ll run great some days it’ll just die when I accelerate. I want to get it to a reliable weekend driver around town. Car isn’t exactly nice looking either, last PO didn’t really keep it in the best of shape but everything is there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there any new or upgraded EFI systems that wont break the bank? I have heard of speedunio but there is little information on it really. the zcardepot one is almost 2k and the protunerz is 1.5k and I dont really want to spend that much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll definitely look into that, I will change the rubber line. I have semi flushed the system before, so its not entirely old fluid. Is there a part number or specific line for the slave? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll see about potentially replacing it, but probably not. I need to clean it out, theres some debris floating in there. Is there a rebuild option for MC? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im replacing 3 brake lines, I had to replace the front right after a leak, but just ordered 3 right now. The fluid is dark sadly, so it definitely needs a flush. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, just yesterday I finally got my hood open after 8 months, did a oil change, put in some new gas, and charged the battery. I decided I was going to take the car out for a spin to find out I had no pressure on the brake pedal. I didn’t see any leaks, fluid is full. I’m going to put on some new calipers, and brake pads due to how old and how many holes the seals on the calipers have. Plus bleeding the entire system. Any tips or pointers to look out for? Clutch seems fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Done that! Just need to pop this hood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im going to try that now, I actually have new oil, filter, and hood pully just waiting to be installed. Just have gotten so unmotivated sadly to work on her. I have her running and then bam she dies randomly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I’ve had serval posts on my 1978 280z, I got really busy with school and work so I stopped working on the car. I had it sorta running about 8 months ago, till the hood latch pully broke and I just parked it and never got to it. I really want to get it going to at least drive on a weekend or so. I got a better job recently and want to throw in some money to get it running smoother. Does anyone know where I can start? On rebuilding, upgrading or replacing? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll avoid messing around with the afm from now on, what’s the ohm reading I should get from the coolant temp sensor? I still have to check for vacuum leaks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk