dylancorrea1

Thank you, these would’ve come in so handy when I was changing out fuel lines and the fuel pump, Had the whole floor covered in gas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its quite fun, ima go in person and waste his time for a bit for being rude, might not even get the part from. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for all the advise, really helping me get the car running as a daily, I’ll look into replacing it next pay check currently have headlight upgrades and ignition switch coming in. Yeah the worker was arguing with me about a simple heater hose and was rude about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Radiator was rusty thats why I upgraded and did a coolant change. I will most likely do another coolant flush just to assure no rusty coolant left. Thank you for the part number, Nissan dealer was a little confused. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One more thing, before removing the hose must I drain the whole cooling system as well? Or just the hose? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the help, I think I’ll replace the line even though I live in California the girlfriend does get cold very easily and I wouldnt want her complaining the whole drive how cold it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you so much, I panicked thinking it was a HG issue, Nissan can provide my the part, sadly not braided :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pardon for my terrible ignorance, Could you draw the set up for me I’m a better visual learner. I want to make sure not to mess anything up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its damp, it appears to leak more from the sides of the fitting than the bottom, do you have any ideas what it could be? The engine is still hot as I was running it, but i will check for chocolate milk on the oil cap, the dip stick did not have any “cream” on it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey, so I finally got the car running after some AFM adjustment, still need to timing and final tuning, but today after starting the car, I realized there is a coolant puddle forming, I did not catch this till today. It’s been running well for only 3 days, the car just had a new upgraded radiator and coolant change done. Im not sure if its a head gasket, or a simple leak fix I could really use some help on diagnosing the problem. The coolant is dripping just above my starter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was my fault, I disconnected 2 grounds when removing the horns, now the engine gets fuel. It still doesn’t stay on but its receiving fuel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually believe I did and I fixed it now sorta still doesn’t want to stay on, but engine is receiving fuel the, I accidentally disconnected 2 grounds when removing the horns. Cleaned and connected them and its getting fuel now, still doesn’t stay on but thats been the norm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I had the car running for a week or so then I did a radiator change and starter change so the car sat for about 2 weeks. Now the car has always needed starting fluid to get up and running on cold starts, but now the car only runs with starting fluid, once the fluid burns out, it dies and won’t start. I just put in a new walbro 255 fuel pump, and yes it primes, I disconnected the pump solenoid and it is priming, I’m not sure why its not getting any fuel. We have 6 injectors given to us by the previous owner they check out with the multimeter, I would need to clean them beforehand, I can install them to see if that will help . But I’m currently at a stop with no real idea whats the issue. I have only thought about it being the AFM, injectors, or gas tank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Possibly, I saw a video and it appears the starter should fit a manual, I drive a manual as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the bolting fitment doesn’t really matter? Thank you, you made my choice a lot easier, I’ll with the autozone most likely due to the cheaper price. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, I have a 1978 280z with a dead starter so I removed it and began to look for a replacement. Although the fitment makes me hesitant on which to get. The starter I removed looks identical to a 1977 280z starter but when searching on online stores it says a 1977 starter will not fit a 1978 280z. Now the pictures of the 1978 starter do not look like they will fit my 1978 the mounting is reversed almost along with no cone, I may be overthinking this and it may seem like a stupid question but is there a difference? The first photo is from autozone, the second from zcardepot and the final is my starter. And this is the 1978 280z starter, with no cone and with the mounting reversed.

Thank you, I’ve been going around looking for air leaks, I haven’t found one yet, but I heard the best bet is to replace all vacuum lines to not have to worry about a leak. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, I will look into them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Planning on doing timing right after I finish installing radiator, I also need a timing gun for that which i don’t have sadly. Thank you for advice I will definitely look into valve lash adjustment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No I haven’t checked that, is there a source where I can find how to check or adjust? The car does hesitate to build rpms, but the timing is off so it could also be that. Thank you for the comment I really appreciate it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you so much for the reply, I will make another video as soon as I install the new radiator. I actually have heard of that, I believe its called something like batch fire. Once again thank you for the advice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello, thanks to the help of the many fine gentlemen on this forum, my 280z seems to be running decent now. After doing various tests the car seems to run decent, timing needs to be done along with a new starter(positive wiring wiggles causing a poor connection). I also ended up finding one major issue which was a bad fuel pump after upgrading to a walbro 255 the car does not die anymore. Sadly the car does having a ticking noise which seems to my dad to be loud injectors, but I presume a worn rocker arm. I need thoughts on the noise the first link is where the engine is running horrible due to what I believe to be it choking for fuel, right after the pump install the engine runs way better, the second link is of the car running with a new pump. Hope the grammar is better :) https://youtube.com/shorts/OenZrP1w7Kw?feature=share Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://youtube.com/shorts/OenZrP1w7Kw here the video you would like to take a look, it sounded a bit better yesterday and after it warmed up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also is there anyway to upload or send you a video of the engine running? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, I appreciate the response and the continued help with trying to get the car running in better shape. Electrical stuff isn’t my strong suit either, It can be quite confusing and very overwhelming. But I downloaded the color diagram for the wiring, and also the EFI bible which ill be reading through and running some of the trouble shooting methods and tests, I already had the FSM. I will trace down all the wiring and see how well of a job I can do with EFI bible and FSM and keep you updated, but yes I also believe the harness isn’t hooked up to the battery. Thank you for all the help with the car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk