Zpenman

Thanks guys, that makes sense. I was running the dizzy with only one of the points, so the thermo-switch connection to the missing points must be tied up somewhere. Going to track it down just for laughs.

I put the switch in the freezer for a bit, and now I have continuity through the switch. Pretty sure it will open again when it warms up. I'll see if I can track the wiring tomorrow if it can be done without too much collateral damage.

Haven't done anything on it today, will try it in the freezer tomorrow. My car is an autotragic, by the way.

The switch is reading open. There's no A/C on the car. I can manually trace the wires but wanted to avoid creating a mess. Looks like a factory install, but can't be sure.

Does anyone know what this is? It looks like a thermal switch (due to the potting) but I'm just guessing and couldn't find it on a schematic. Switch was located just below the emergency flasher relay on the RH side of the passenger kick-panel of my '71. Ran across it while troubleshooting my rear window defroster. Thanks!

Perhaps you need a new return spring? Make sure there is not a build up of gunk around the lever/ return spring area. When I was checking my pump (removed from the car) it would return quickly with an audible click. I also have an original '71 Nikki pump. My luck with after market pumps has been pretty bad, the majority of them are junk.

I took the forum's advice and tied a gym sock around the end of the master cylinder otherwise I would probably have a new implant!

The heating and oil didn't work, so I kludged a brass air fitting to the fwd reservoir with epoxy and clamped the other fluid outlets shut with C-clamps. Once the air pressure reached 80 PSI, the stuck valve popped out like a gopher!

I currently have a later version on my car. The brakes work fine, albeit they seem a little touchy. The biggest problem is you that have to swap the front and rear brake lines that go to the master cylinder. This requires physically bending the brake lines.

Thanks, Patcon, will give it a try. Heated it in a pot of boiling water mixed with WD40, no luck. Tried the freezer, too, without luck.

Good luck finding the correct master cylinder. I have been trying to restore my original master cylinder (7/71) but have been unable to remove the fwd piston which is stuck inside. This is an off and on again project. Been trying for a year to find an original master cylinder with the front brake reservoir in front with no luck. Make sure you check that the fwd reservoir is stamped with an "F" beneath it, one fellow just switched the reservoirs on top and trying to ply that off on me as an original.

Excellent craftsmanship!

Glad you got her going, electrical issues can often be quite mysterious.

Have you tried a new condenser? Just removing it from the circuit won't do it, you may get a weak spark without it, but it won't be enough for ignition. The condenser isn't there just to protect the points but to also provide a strong spark.

Try another new condenser, purchased from a different source than your last one. Last year I had some vexing ignition problems on my '71, and finally concluded that it was my condenser. The car actually ran for a while after the second condenser replacement, but then quit with no spark. Finally switched out to a Pertronix coil and inductive pickup, and it's been running fine since the switch. Still using the original dizzy. If you stick with the original setup, have found that the Delco condensers seem to be the most reliable.