Zpenman

I took pictures, and the orientation looks like your pic. Was there any kind of spacer on the motor shaft that fits between it and the linkage? Didn't recall seeing one, just a flat-washer, lock-washer, and a nut to that attaches the linkage to the motor. I'm thinking the motor shaft is canted with respect to the linkage and binding it up tight. I'll mess with it tomorrow. You have one clean car, Ritchie!

The wipers on my '71 were a little slow so I removed the motor & linkages and gave them a thorough cleaning. Prior to working on this the wipers moved in both slow and fast, and the parking function worked normally. The pivots were surprisingly corrosion free and turned easily. The joint closest to the motor was pretty stiff and after cleaning all of the linkages turned freely. I lubed with lithium grease after cleaning. After reinstalling, the wipers would not move in slow or fast. I know the linkage is binding somewhere, but not sure how to correct this. I disconnected the linkage from the motor and the motor is functioning just fine. Any ideas?

Very clean car but shouldn't it have flat-tops?

Off-topic, DC871F, did you happen to fly those rascals or are you just a fan of those great Douglas products?

It must be my tired old eyes, can't even see them! lol

What's not to love???

Just for future reference, what is considered to be the cutoff date for the "Series I" vehicles?

I used the bottled Rit black dye, one bottle for each 27 gallon plastic tub. I filled each tub about half-way full with the garden hose and then added the dye. Put the hatch carpet section in one tub and the front/rear seat sections in the other tub. Mixed it a bit with a big stick. Let it sit over night. Turned the sections over about half-way through just to make sure the dying was even. Rinsed the carpet the next day with the hose and set them out in the sun to dry. Make sure they are completely dry before reinstalling them. In bright outdoor light, some areas tend to have a purplish sheen, similar to a bad hair-dye job. The sheen is not too noticeable when the carpet is installed in the car. In retrospect, probably should have used two bottles of dye for each tub. A carpet set from Black Dragon Auto was previously installed in the car, but I was never happy with the fit. I've since noticed that a lot of these new carpet kits don't have the slots and fittings to hold the carpet in place like they should. Glad I saved the originals.

Just dyed the original carpet from my '71 and was happy with the way it turned out. Of course the dye job didn't fix the frayed edges or a few tears in the fabric but the color is much richer now and had the added benefit of cleaning out the accumulated dust and dirt

The car drives just fine after tuning it up a bit. Can't believe the difference in spark between the points and the Pertronix, as viewed with the colortune. Have a slight vacuum leak at the butterfly shaft on the fwd carb, but that's a battle for another day. Thanks again for the help, everyone.

Good luck! Will keep you in mind if I'm in the market for your wares.

Installed the Pertronix and gave her a full tune-up (used the tune-up proc from ZCarGuide.com). Took me all day as I dropped the Empi flow-gauge and had to repair it. Car is idling great now but didn't get a chance to test drive it due to the rain (wipers are inop right now). Are all 240s so cold-blooded as mine? Pretty warm here in SoCal but it still takes at least 5 minutes to warm the car up with choke.

Thanks for the tip, 240dkw! Replaced the newly replaced condenser (no markings on where it was made, purchased from NAPA) with a Delco condenser (made in Mexico) and she started right up. Still going to install the Pertronix ignition once it's delivered. Will be interesting to see the difference between the two setups.

I ordered a Pertronix coil and inductor to replace the points-based ignition. Going to keep the original dizzy. Finally took the advice from many of you to do this conversion. Realize this doesn't belong on the carburetor central thread anymore but it would be kind of pointless to move it now, right? During troubleshooting I was getting some fluctuating voltages at the coil with the varying key positions so I decided to change the electrical portion of the start key (back-end). Bought a Beck/Arnley ignition switch from Amazon and was pleased with how easy it was to change out. Didn't want to replace the whole ignition switch as it is original and the same key opens both the door and hatch. Will post once the new ignition is installed. Thanks for all of the support!

Looks so nice you may never want to start the engine!

Forgot to include the colortune video, it's kind of long, didn't know how to edit it. At about 15 seconds you will see the one and only spark, occurring right when when I first turned the key to start. Bear in mind the car was idling just fine a few days ago, no wiring changes or mods have been performed on this car. z_ignition_problem.MOV

Thanks, will do. I've had a similar experience with the poor quality of brand new junk that is sold these days. Feel like a pup chasing my tail.

I hear ya, had the exact same thing happen with that little black wire. The square nut inside was so loose it almost fell to the bottom of the dizzy, would have been a disaster! Made sure it was tight this time. Probably should go to electronics, just hate getting away from the original design, don't know why, though.

Confirmed fuel level in carbs are good, car wouldn't start, dead as a doorknob. Put the colortune on a plug to confirm no spark. Replaced the ignition capacitor and voila, got a nice, bright spark, the car started and idled just fine. Set the timing to 20 degrees and everything looked good. After about 5 minutes the car just stopped. No warning, no rumbling, just stopped. Checked the colortune and confirmed that once again, there is no spark. I had previously changed out the ballast resistor, the coil, points, and ignition cap just because they were very, very, old. I put back on the old coil and ballast resistor, which were working fine when they were removed, to no effect. Not sure what happened to my spark. Going to take a break from the devil car for a while, lest I do some harm to it. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.

I'll check the timing this weekend, set it months ago per recommendations on this forum, don't remember the numbers, though. Didn't drop the oil pump, so the timing should be ok.

Thanks, people. Will try these things this weekend. The second pump I tried was an original Nikki. Have purchased two new brand-new mechanical pumps over the years and neither of them had the volume of the Nikki. They are both taking up space on the garage shelf.

Forgot to mention that the coil, cap, and condenser have already been shotgunned.

Sorry, forgot to mention the problem occurs with a replacement mechanical pump. Didn't exactly measure the flow but it seemed to be pumping out fuel (into a large water bottle) just fine. I'm guessing there isn't a fuel blockage problem if I'm getting a good flow out of the pump? Can the sight-line fuel test be performed if the SUs are still on the car? The dizzy seems to be ok, but it is original. Is there something more I can check on it other than timing/advance? Did have to previously remove the dizzy for some clean-up work. Hope to hell I didn't re-install it a notch off. Thanks!

The car starts fine with choke, idles fine, but is sluggish upon initial acceleration and sounds like it's missing. After it gets going, it runs fine and the power is good. I accumulated a good collection of spares and have shotgunned the coil, condenser, plugs, wires, and ballast. The distributer is original but the timing looks good and advances with increased throttle. I have a second set of SUs and the issue did not change when these were installed. Found a few minor vacuum leaks, fixed them, and they had little effect although it did idle smoother. The spark looked good via the Colortune, but the plugs seem to be a little more sooty than I had expected. Thanks for the feedback, one less thing to think about.

I'm working through some stalling issues on my 71'. The fuel level in my fuel filter varies from about the halfway level in the filter to about 1/2" from the bottom. Does anyone know if the varying fuel levels in the filter are typical for this car? I'm running an original mechanical pump and it's pumping out the fuel just fine. Just going through the process of elimination and this seemed kind of strange. Thanks!