Dreco

when I put a load on the motor and the temp increases, it increases pretty fast. Temp comes down fast when I let the engine idle. I'm going to throw in another thermostat real quick and see what happens.

Help, My Z is having a problem. Car is cool at idle, but starts to overheat when a load is put on the motor. Has water, Fan works, the pump has only 10,000 miles on it. Does this sound like thermostat? I hope I haven't done any damage to the motor. It happend on the way to work

Yeah, that's what I've been reading on the harness, makes perfect sense. Maybe I'll just keep my existing belt until I get a cage. I haven't seen the schedule yet for NASA, but the day I sign up for an event ( I'm hoping jan or feb) I'll let you know. I'll probably go to Infineon, but I've been wanting to try thunderhill. Downloaded some lap videos of that track to give me a feel for what I'm in for when I finally go there. Gotta tell ya, that track looks like it's in the middle of nowhereLOL. Speaking of Videos, I installed a camera mount in my car so I can tape some of my laps. Should make for some humor for the Pros. here. By the way, I sold that dashboard, so you can take it off of your site. BTW, that ride in the Cortina was the first time I went out on a track and I've been hooked ever since. It's all Royce's fault I know when it comes to organized racing, I'm a novice, but hopefully with enough practice, money, and tips from everyone here, I'll be able to actually COMPETE in an event someday.

Yeah, I met Royce out at Sears Point a couple of years ago. A friend of mine had to meet up with him there to buy some Z parts. I rode along with him for a few laps in his Cortina. Well, my seat belt seems to fit pretty well (shoulder strap fits better), and everything I've read about the subject points to getting a cage first, so I'll probably be giving you a call Aanand. Probably won't be able to afford one until mid Jan.(christmas and all).

Well, it more about time. It's my friends car. He figured it might be quicker to just swap in a different harness. His is in real sad shape. Now I think he's just going to rewire it himself.

I can't remeber what kind of beer that was, but the one before it was a guinness. Since it was the last guinness, I had to settle for something else.

Dreco does not like this brand of beerLOL Pic of me at a friends studio, laying down some guitar tracks

I've decided to hold off on the webbers for now. Money is going to be tight after my familiy's vacation this christmas, and I wanted to get the car painted before spring.

Hello all, I am in need of the engine compartment wire harness for a 1973 240Z (not sure it 70-72 is the same as 73). post, send a pm or email me at d.record@worldnet.att.net

I have a 240Z that I use for open track. I wanted to install a 4 point harness. I recently aquired a Corbeau Forza seat. I don't have a roll cage. Where are the best mounting points?? Do I just bolt to the existing seat belt mounting points?? (the 2 behind the seat) Or do I bolt the 2 lap points there, and the 2 shoulder points somewhere else?? anyone have pictures for examples?? Most of the Z's i've seen with harnesses have them attached to a roll cage. thanks

So If I get 45's I guess the next thing I need to do is figure out which 45DCOE I need, looks like there are different kinds, depending on what jetting size your need.

they used an L28 F54 block. with an N42 head

I will tell you that in my 3.0L rebello used a stroker crank with my L24 rods. I asked about redline of the motor, he said I could take it up 8000, but there isn't any more power after 7000.

If I get 45's, which ones to I look for ?? I saw a code of 45DCOE, but it also ended in 13,14,15. what does the last number mean??

well, when I talked with my engine builder, the discussion was wether to get 45's or 48's!!:classic: From my understanding, the head porting that was done to mine was pretty extensive. Cost me about 1100 dollars. If I go with this set up, I'm also assuming I'll have to install a better fuel pump. I guess an inline electric feul pump would sufice, or should I just get rid of the mechanical on for a high flow electric one.

well, I finally got a hold of my engine builder. It's been suggested that I use 45's with my set up. I was told 40's would be too small. so now I'm going shopping.

you say the 40DCOE?? what about the 45's or 50's

I found out why I was slow. Bad tuning. My valves were out of adjustment. I adjusted them, the car felt a lot faster. I decided to have the car dyno'd, just to see were I was at. Seems it was more than just valves. With my carbs running way too rich and a problem was found in my distributer, I still pulled 191 hp with 176 torque at the wheels. I have since corrected my problems and I see 13's in the cars future. I haven't had it dyno'd again, but should be around 220 at the wheels according to the tech.

Hello, right now I'm running bored SU's (50mm) on a Rebello built 3.0L stroker motor. It's been suggested that I get the tripple carb set up, and I'm leaning towards getting it. Some say I should get Weber's because parts are more obtainable. But I thought I would get some input from the club before I make my purchase. my questions: 1. how much horsepower could I gain?? 2. Are there any cons running tripples rather than SU's?? 3. Which model of carb and intake should I get? (I'm willing to give up driveability for performance) 4. Where is a good place to purchase from? I'll need the whole set up, carbs, linkage, manifold.

It was very early in the morning, and I was in a hurry. But seriously, it whines accelerating and decelerating. I have heard that these diff's are louder. I also have poly bushings on my mustache bar. I don't mind it being loud, just don't want premature failure. Could it possibly be U-joints?? I know it's tough without actually hearing it, I just know my old open end diff was a lot quieter.

I honestly didn't even think about that when I typed thatROFL

would play in bearings result in a louder rear end?? and would play in bearings lead to premature failure. just to make it clear, I'm refering to the 2 side flanges that insert into the R200. Is there any difference between the ones from a early model R200(1976) and a late R200(1981). I wondered if something was wrong with the input shafts of the flanges. the play is up and down. what would cause that type of play?? It seems to be worse on the passenger side than the driver side.

should there be any play at the input shaft (R200). When I pull on the half shaft, It will move back and forth a little. It's not the Ujoints.

SORRY, I'll repost.

I recently installed a 3.7 LSD(form a 300ZX) into my 240Z. It was supposedly rebuilt. after about 30 mph, I hear can hear it whine. I put in the input shafts from an 78 R200. They fit in and the C-clips locked them in place. I crawled underneath the car and checked the halfshalfts. I noticed a little play where the input shalf goes into the rear end. the play was back and forth, not in and out of the hole. could it be just the bearings???