Dreco

I didnt even knew of this one.

I myself have considered going with an RB motor swap for the next engine. More than likely the RB25T. There are a few shops close by that are very familiar with this engine, and swap. HAHA, they even fit one in a 240SX (RB26TT)

My 240Z was given the Car of the Month for Feb 05 on www.dallasimports.com they like the 'old school' and i've tried my best to educate them. The 240Z is timeless

with all the engine swap options, why would you want a jeep motor???

Motor: Rebello Racing built 'true' 3.0L stroker (hair over 3.0L) F54 block Head: 'Street' porting(not sure on the numbers there) may have to call Rebello, Compression 9.8:1 Cam: Cam is 495 lift with 285(?) duration. Intake: Bored SU carbs (50mm) intake manifold also bored. Exhaust: Header(3 into 2) 2 1/2 inch exhaust into Forza high flow muffler(straight through design) with a very bad misfiring problem beyond 5000 rpms (faulty ignition) still put down 200 RWHP. Have yet to dyno it since I fixed it. The audio of my car is of course after I fixed it hehe.... engine is at full song now.

Hey all, just was wondering if any members here from Texas, could recommend a shop to install a Quaife unit(any have any comments on this unit?) in my R200 differential... or if anyone here has done it themselves.....maybe help me do it?? any help would be appreciated.

oh, now that is nice.....especially like the stepping out in the beginning!!!

here's an mp3 of what mine sounds like.....I posted this in another thread http://www.streamload.com/Dreco/240Zexhaustnote.mp3

sorry, haha, put too much sweat into this one.

thanks. I figured it was about time I started posting media of my Z car

lift is like 495 with a 285(?) duration. header is a 3X2 into a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a high flow, straight through muffler.

This is music to my ears. a little MP3 of what my 3.0L stroker sounds like... http://www.streamload.com/Dreco/240Zexhaustnote.mp3

anyone have any experience with using a cold air intake for carbs?? this site offers a cold air intake box, and I wondered how it would do with bored SU carbs. http://www.racetep.com/tish.html I tried to rig something up with some 3 inch tubing and all it did was restrict flow. it's just that I live in Texas, and with this heat, I hate running off the even hotter air under the hood.

I have a similar problem. I've narrowed it down to heat. It's either my fuel getting hot (carbs and float bowls right above a header) or my coil is getting to hot. driving to the drag strip, it runs perfect. get in line and wait my turn with the engine at idle (meanwhile getting hotter), light goes green and I misfire all the way down the track. the higher the RPM the worse it is. I drive around a bit, and it goes away. Could the coil be getting to hot?? its on the same side as the header. well, I think my header is just heating fuel in the bowls. and when driving it around awhile, the fuel isn't sitting in there long enough to heat up, plus more air moving through the engine compartment. I think I'm going to install a remote thermometer, and watch it when I idle, and when I drive around, to see the difference, and when the problem goes away.

that's what I thought, but it gets in the way of the exhaust. It's a bitch to manuver, and that fact that the tranny sits on top of it, it means you have to jack your car up that much higher. It just quicker for me to just 'man' it in. the tranny aint that heavy.

Getting it out is easy (gravity)... it's getting it back in...well, I just roll the tranny on my legs and lift it up with my knees, while grabing the end with my hands. I slid it into place using my knees as the fulcrum point, and wiggling the end until the shaft aligns, then I crawl out from the car, and rest with a cold beer before starting to wrench in the bolts. Got it down to a science. Just make sure you have good jack stands and a friend to hand you tools. ps. the drive shaft bolts are kind of a pain.

Well, I just so happen to have Rebello's 3.0L stroker motor. I'm running a 9.8:1 compression ratio. Not sure if that supercharger would be too much boost (i've heard it just really depends on internals, and how well the motor was built).

if you build it, they will come. you have a customer right here. I'd love to add that to my 3.0L stroker

Yeah, I checked that first, definatley gear oil. I took it to a shop, and the guy told me that the little hole is a drain hole, incase the front seal goes. It supposed to keep the gear oil from getting on the clutch. I guess it worked because the clutch never slipped.

I have an '83 close gear ratio 5 speed. I looked at the 'hole' and it appears to be part of the mold , but I thought the "overflow" was the little white plastic stem on the outside of the tranny. BTW, it pops out of reverse, because I thought I was in my wife's car which has a 6 speed tranny, I was reminded really quick when I heard metal grinding. . Well, I have the tranny out, and I have the funds, might as well just have it rebuilt and be done with it. Can't have that leaking at the track. No telling how much is dripping out while I'm driving.

That's what I thought that little hole might be, there for overflow. I was driving it pretty hard. Maybe I'll take it into a shop tomorrow and have it looked at. It pops out of reverse anyway, maybe time to overhaul.

anyone? I saw that gear oil was leaking out of my tranny through the clutch fork hole. I pulled the tranny, and it looks like it's leaking out of a small hole underneath the input shaft (on the cover plate). Why is there a hole there?? It didn't look like it was leaking from the gasket. Anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?? It wasn't leaking too bad, but leaking none the less. Never torn into a tranny before, so that's why I'm asking.

Ha, it is a smurf blue isn't it??

well, it's a little harder to turn, but you can turn 90 degree turns without changing hand position. I adjusted the front camber a little and it turns even easier that before.