SouthCarolina83

Interesting you mention that! The secondary clutch cylinder blew when we rolled it off the trailer. The master cylinder is corroded bad as it attaches to power booster. My 82 had to have all that replaced as well as shocks and struts. Scott

Zed Head, the fuel is new 99 octane leaded fuel and I pulled tank and completely cleaned it correctly and the pickup and sending unit. scott

My comment about getting rid of factor fuel rail and injectors had to do with the car has 1983 injectors in it and the factory rail has rust in it from it setting 16 years or so. Three injectors spray decent and the other 3 are barely squirting. The seals are yuk as well. I’ve got 38 psi at the rail prior to the regulator. I also checked the cold start valve per the FSM from Xenon. The engine is tough on this car despite the body being pristine. I appreciate all the comments and help. scott

Well the noid light blinks the same in my 82 so obviously the issue in 83 might be fine. I guess I’ll start the intake/exhaust manifold removal tomorrow and call to order a new fuel rail and injectors.

Starts and runs 5 seconds on starter fluid. Battery is strong and on charger. My issue is I want to verify the efi issue before tearing the intake and exhaust off and drilling out broken (factory defective) studs at outside number 1 and outside number 6 exhaust ports on the head. My plan is to junk the trombone fuel rail and all injectors and start fresh. If I swap to a single rail and the Ford/GM injectors do they use a new harness? What’s involved mechanically to do it? Also will the stock exhaust flow enough with different injectors? Thanks in advance, Scott

Thanks to both posts! I just got reminded nicely by my wife that we have a fully functional 82 280ZX on the driveway we can hook the noid light to to ck brightness. You mentioned an after market EFI, how does it hook to the ECU? Also looks like a header on yours? Where did you get it? scott

I have the FSM on PDFs and have been using that for troubleshooting. I also wasn’t keeping 12 volts on the injectors more than a second at a time. I pulsed them. My plan is to replace them all when I replace the trombone original fuel rail with an updated single one. I’m looking for recommendations for that part from you guys. As far as the exhaust manifold goes I’m thinking ahead because my 82’s manifold was so warped I couldn’t use the thrust washers (combo bolts) to seal the intake and exhaust after milling it. My BiGGEST question from you guys right now is how bright should a NOID light light up when just cranking over the motor (not starting) at each injector connector? My light is just a dull yellow color for each flash/pulse. scott

Hello all I’m Scott in Summerville, SC! I have an 82 280ZX N/A and I’m desperately trying to get an 83 280ZX running I paid 100.00 for. I apologize in advance if I’ve posted this in wrong place... I’m having an issue getting an EFI pulse from ECU on the 83. I’ve got 12VDC on all six injectors plugs on one pin with key off and I’ve got a very dim yellow pulse on each plug when I turn it over with a NOID light installed. How bright should the light be? It stayed the same yellowish color as I moved it from plug. I currently have the fuel rail pulled up with injectors still connected to rail. All electrical checks have been made with all six injector plus off all injectors. I’ve also tested each injector with test leads off the battery and have mostly good flow from injectors. im trying to ensure my fuel issues are fixed prior to removing the intake and exhaust manifold to replace gasket and drill out broken end studs. I’d like to replace fuel rail, any recommendations on who and what to order? Also if my exhaust manifold is warped (I bet it is) what are options and what/where to get? Thanks in advance, Scott in South Carolina