SledZ

View Advert Passenger side Inner wheel arch needed for 240 Been waiting forever for the inner wheel arches to come in. I need one for the passenger side if someone has one laying around they could ship and sell. I'd pay a reasonable price and shipping. Advertiser SledZ Date 05/28/2021 Price $150.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1973 Model 240z

I have two of these sets. I have been holding them in case I need to swap for a rear quarter panel that I have been working on and hoping it turns out ok. Not sure how rare but there pretty cool. Once I get it done I'll sell one set and put the other on my 71 once its got fresh paint.

I've done a lot of spot weld removals and adds for just nothing this visible! ha ha CaseyZ interesting on the cut further up above the dog leg to patch it. I'll take a good look at my options and tackle this soon and post my progress.

Yea no way can I mud it up. I never thought of splicing it. I know when I took the quarter off the donor, the door jam gets flimsy and that area is where the only visible spot welds are so a little troubling. Just looking to see if anyone has done it and any tips. I'm an ok tig/mig good welder so not worried about that, just the size and scope is what freaks me out! But I assume like anything else that a person hasn't done before, once you do it its not all that bad...

After a two year break I am going back to work on my 73. I knew the quarter was messed up and removed the 3 or so inches of body filler. I'm a decent welder but a rookie body man. I need to take care of this final issue and I think I know the answer but scary stuff when the rest of the car is so nice and time invested. Should I take the whole quarter and replace it with the spare quarter I have. The dogleg is in bad shape and I have already replaced it on the car so I assume I'd pick a spot cut and weld. This seems like the scary logical choice although I did take the quarter off a donor car so I know what it takes. Or should I used the butchered quarter and patch just the back bad area (somehow!) and deal with the body lines and poky holes with body filler? Or somehow try and do a better job pulling the dent out. Someone tried and lft a lot of big screw holes! Although I wouldn't be able to replace the bracing behind the rear of the qtr. I have the rear panels that I'd replace also..Thanks

I used POR on one of mine almost 20 years ago and its still fine. Used nuts and bolts and anything else that would help scrape the tank clean before I started the POR treatment.

Ha good ones! 2 x 10's of course!

So I got sick and tired of using 2x4's tires and various things to keep my engines upright since the oil pans are off kilter.. Don't ask me why I even keep them but you never know when you might need something! So I put some painters plastic down on a harbor freight dollie and then wrapped the underside of the engine also. Got the engine so it was as vertical as possible then lowered it till it touched the lowest part of the dollie and then filled it in with spray foam.It worked great and saved space! It's nice and stable and I can wheel it around.I didn't need to use a strap but wanted extra security. Also when I do make use of the engines I can lift the engine out and take out the "mold" and use my dollie for other stuff if needed. Hope this helps for anyone that wants to store there engines also.

Ah ok. Here is a picture of mine. I use a Harbor Freight 3" cutoff tool with a 3/8" arbor. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-high-speed-air-cut-off-tool-60243.html I attached a picture of mine.

Yep its here on Amazon. I used only one wheel for dozens of long welds. It's a really good grinding wheel. https://www.amazon.com/3M-1991-Reinforced-Grinding-Wheels/dp/B0002SRLF2

I use the 3M Corps weld grinding wheel with a small die grinder. You can really knock off the high spots with precision then I use the angle grinder with the sandpaper to finish it off.

I took it completely apart and saved the good parts and then had fun with it in my own demolition derby! Don't fret... there was nothing left to salvage on this. The exposed metal was paper thin and worthless so going to take it for scrap. I tried for 30 minutes to pick that lock and now I have given up for good, not fun anymore and not going to pay a locksmith for something I am going to sell.

Good guess on Mt St. Helen's but it was actually 3 years earlier! The car sat in a back yard for 42 years. I'm in Nebraska. It still had Centennial plates on it from 1976! The floors eventually rusted out, the car sank and I believe woodchucks made it there lodge. It was a huge mess to clean out! Every lock was locked and rusted shut so I had to cut out all the locks to be able to pry open the doors and start to shovel out the dirt. After I removed the dash I cut out the backside of the glove box and found a set of bicentennial coins still in the package! so there is hope for ya av8ferg! I got a fair amount of parts out of it like the Datsun 8 track and the whole dash is in great shape believe it or not!

The lock tumbler on the passenger door was rusted badly that I couldn't read the numbers and nothing in the glove box. I just want to get it unlocked so the glove box can be used then sell the dash. I don't want to really pay a locksmith and figured the lock would be like a "general" lock that about anything would unlock it but that's not the case or my lock picking skills are lacking! So I did take the dash out and remove the lock. Even with the dash out and glove box torn out it's a chore to get that lock out since it's locked to the glove box door. I'll give it another go when I find some more patience or someone with lock picking skills can tell us the method they used.