SledZ

I still have the clunk after replacing about everything. One thing I noticed is that the mustache bushing stub mount bolt is tapered and it leaves a pretty good gap at the bottom. I attached a picture so you can see. I'm not sure how to remedy this if it were this the reason for the clunk.

Good guess! Yes they are 10 foot doors and my ceiling is 11' 3". I had to get the dual channel tracks for the low height ceiling and used a jackshaft opener. I can raise my z and all cars to full height but my truck and any SUV not quite all the way but enough for my 5' 9" body to walk underneath. Had plenty of vehicles on it since I put it in last winter.

Sorry about that, didn't mean to cause envy. I'm an old fart at 57 so it took a long time to get to this stage. I had three snowmobiles but my boys moved out of state so I sold them and a nice trailer and bought my lift with that money. I wouldn't have been able to do that out of "general funds" because according to my wife there are more important things to spend money on...

I used the race ramps for quite awhile but still had to crawl under my cars so I pulled the trigger on a Bendpak. If you can afford any type of lift is is like wrenching in heaven! My ceilngs were tall enough for their smallest XPR-9 but that Max Jack would fit in a shorter ceiling.

Thanks John. I dug up my pictures from 12 years ago when I had it on jack stands. Is that the right place where my jack stand is in the picture or the very outside rear corner of the "tubbed out area just to the right of the jack stand?

Pulled the trigger and have a Bendpak XPR-9 on the way. Looking for the best lift points under there or if someone has a picture of there car on a lift would be great. If anyone has experience lifting one let us know. Thanks.

I would believe it was wear if after I did the "old throttle fix" and the symptom stayed the same.

Have you ever play that game Shoot the Moon? It's almost like that. You put pressure on the pedal and it's hard to get it to move and then all of a sudden it lets go.

Here is what I did and it is as smooth as can be. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/12946-sticky-agressive-throttle-fix.html#post85160

I wasn't looking for any suggestions..... I only post when I have something of interest to share...

My rear toe in using the string method was about 7/16" on the left and 1/2" on the right and the camber was way off also using a T square. All scientific measurements.. It wore my tires bald and made the rear end jumpy. I would do the shock test on the rear and it would barely push down. So I installed both sets and got it right on (as measured by the string) and the camber is spot on (measured by the T-Square). So I now can give it push on rear end shock test and it feels great! Actually gives a good bit. I have KYBs. It was warm enough this week to take it for a test drive and it drives like a totally different car. It's not jumpy when hitting bumps, it takes them nice and smooth. I can't believe I waited so long to do this. I could probably take it in and get it aligned but not sure I really need it that bad after driving it the way it had been for 10 plus years and not putting very many miles on it anyway.... Just thought I 'd post this since I could not find anyone else that had posted using them to let you know they worked great. How long they last well I dunno...

My rear toe is (left) 0.94 (right) 0.61 from an alignment shop, my front is withinn specs. I decided to do the rope trick and wrap it aroung all four tires to see what it looked like and it is obvious the toe is bad especially on the left side. When I hit a bump and there is a bit of gravel on the road you can hear the tires slip. It also seems jumpy when I hit bumps. I swapped a R180 with a 3.90 but doubt that made a difference. It's something that I am going to get fixed this winter..

I put in a dash cover years ago and noticed that my flashers did not work after that, turned out that the switch didn't have enough "throw" to engage the contacts because of the hole of the flasher switch. So I had to bend the dash cover a bit by the switch so it would engage all the way. If I remember right, that flasher is tiied to your brake lights.

Running good for awhile..how long? Does it try to start? Something changed. Too much fuel, timing, low compression, These engines can run on 3 cylinders so it is "across the board" kind of problem. If you have points then you have carbs, put the old plugs back in dry and see if they get soaked, it's to hard to see it on new plugs. Might be the chokes stuck all the way down, make sure they work. Maybe the distributor moved and the timing is way off.

After pulling out my transmission and taking the case off I figured out why it kept popping out of 2nd, 4th and reverse. The problem is that the shifter would hit the back of the "socket" and not allow it to fully engage and pop out of gear. You can see where the mark is on the shifter where it hits and the distance the gear is from fully engaging over the synchro, (a long ways off). I took apart another transmission as a test and used two shifters and it did it to both of them so I would think this could happen to a lot of them and hopefully fix them without taking them out of the car and to a tranny shop for nothing. I thought I would be able to adjust the shift "tang" that actually moves the actuaters to change gears but it is keyed....so I just ended up grinding the shifter where it hit, enough to make sure if fully engaged and now I can down shift and back my car up without it popping out! Hope this helps someone down the road.

I just mixed up a batch of the 50/50 and put it on two 3/4 pipes on top of a very old water heater that I am going to use to make something out of... They are really rusted on there, in fact the metal is in bad shape where it's threaded into. It was kind of like mixing water and oil but did mix up and seem to go right into the threads. I'll give it a few days and see what it takes to get them off...

I decided to replace my 240 foam while I had new vinyl put on from Les. Something to think about is the new foam will make you sit 3 inches higher in the seat and make your head hit the ceiling if your 5' 10" or taller and won't hug your body anymore......however the new vinyl is fantastic looking!

There is a Tidewater Z-club here, maybe they can help. http://www.tzccva.org/

Mine will do the same with my old worn out keys... I had new keys made off the key number and they stay put.

Thanks for the help, I'll plan on taking it out and having it checked out. Hopefully it is just an adjustment! That would be great:) May take me awhile (it's back to winter again!) but I'll post the results.

Hmm so I'm not sure what to think the problem is. That reverse comment is right on, it sounds exactly like being reverse all the time! If I didn't have it back up on my casters I'd drive it in reverse to see if it was quieter... If I took both of them in to a transmission shop do you think they could figure it out or make one good one out of both of them? I guess I should plan on it and see if the mystery can be put to rest. I never should have went to the Upullit that day that truck was there... oh what a lot of work it was...!!:knockedou

Well I found a R180 3.90 out of a 83 Nissan Truck front end. Went through all the work to swap it out and it sounds like a truck! It has a growling kind of noise and I don't think I can drive around that way. It looks almost brand new as you can see in the picture compared to my original, any ideas of what could be wrong? Hard to believe the bearing are bad...?

I took apart my booster to see what I could repair and had no problems getting it back together and running. You will need to make a "tool" to unscrew the 2 pieces and I made mine out of a piece of wood and drilled holes to match the 4 bolts and held the other end in my vice. My seal around the shaft is corroded and did not seal well and it does hiss sometimes so I bought a booster from VB and swapped the seal to my original because the one from VB had a different vacuum nipple. I'll attach a picture I took of it apart. You can see the round seal that goes on the end of the rod, that is what falls off causes the booster to fail. Happened to me when I pushed the brake in and didnt have the MC installed, so I just glued it back on with a dab of rubber cement to hold it while I put it back together.

I have had that problem and it was because my points were slowly closing. I must not have gotten them tight enough when I replaced them.

Just wondering if anyone saw that commercial, saw the engine first and said hey that's a Z then it showed a guy in his driveway with 2 Z's. Thought it was kinda neat.