SledZ
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Everything posted by SledZ
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Saw your picture of the master cylinders. I have the one on the left because the ® is toward the rearend and the (F) is toward the front end. Funny I have a 71 MC on a 72 and now I know why the rebuilt MC did not work at all. So I can't swap out my HIGH Dollar MC for a less expensive one without the rod? I'll fiddle with it tonite and see what happens.. Thanks
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It is a doozie of a problem. It's really weird that it builds pressure like that. Last night I test drove it over to my brothers (2 miles) and by the time I got there I was close to locking up. Forgot to put the emergency brake on before I opened the valve and my car took off rolling, aagghh!!! The pedal has very little give maybe an inch and it firms up tight even with vacuum so I am wondering if it could be that pressure valve in the back since there is no give in the pedal. If that valve is not "valveing" then it could be my problem. After hearing Bambi's comment about the MC valves it just might be that. I'll have to do some more troubleshooting.... I bought some items recently from Midwest Z and really liked her service. Thanks
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New rear cylinders did not help, the rears still build pressure and eventually lock up after 10 or so pumps, then have to release pressure from the master cylinder to get going again. Looks like I'll be ordering a master cylinder shortly...
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I do have one new wheel cylinder on one wheel but the other I cleaned up. I have new stainless braided line and new brakes all around. I have a Mity Vac that I use to bleed that works great. I think I'll take out the other wheel cyl and replace it with a new one, which I cheaped out and didnt do in the begining and see what happens. Thanks PS I have heard that it is best to buy new master cylinders also...
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My Rear Brakes stick because of my master cylinder, I think. I drove around the neighborhood (testing) and after hitting the brakes several times my rears eventually lock up! If I relieve the pressure at the rear master cylinder valve it frees the brakes up. So I bought a rebuilt master cylinder but no matter how I bled it it would not give me any pressure, plus I had to swap the lines around for the front and rears. I took the rebuilt back and put my original back and am thinking of getting a brand new master cyl. Has anyone had this problem? I saw a couple other posts on rear brake drums that are locked up,,this could be your problem. Thanks for any help
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Summit didnt know what I was talking about. There Web page has plenty to chose from. Anyone know what size I need?
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Got a set of those Shelby Cal 500 wheels and am wondering about the depth and where to get lug nuts for them. Are they special or can I get them from my local parts Store? Thanks
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I swapped my nozzles and needles front to back and my rich problem moved so it is definately a bad nozzle/needle combo. It only took a few minutes of running for the plugs to turn black with the mixture as lean as it would go. Sounds like you have gone through it all also. did you make sure the choke isn't doing it by checking the nozzle movement with the domes off? If the parts are swappable from 3-4 screw carbs then I'd go for it and try and get it running that way.
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Man I dunno about sandpaper, is it "sticky" if you take the nozzles off? if so then it does look like the piston is binding. try swapping them around to find a better fit. The mixture setting is mainly controlled by the needle and its position in the the nozzle which is fine tuned by mixture nut. one thing about the video is he shows how to adjust the floats with gose jets, which does not help us much with the regular rubber tips. Once my inlaws leave I'm headed out to the shop to figure out why my front carb is so rich. I'm thinking that maybe the spring that holds pressure on the needle is to weak or short and once the car starts running it can't hold back the pressure from the fuel pump and adds more fuel making it richer... but I have a new needles and seats from ZTherapy..
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Why didn't you just offer it to "us" instead of Ebay
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Well GOOD news, I sprayed on that Formula 2 a few times and let it soak in and then dry and I now have to rub hard to get even a tiny bit of black on me wheras before all I had to do was just barely touch it and it was on me all day! Get it if you can. Never tried it before because I didn't have bumpers until a couple months ago and I won't put them on till I get my paint touched up.
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I have a similar problem only with one carb. I have adjusted the "bad" carb everywhichway with the same sooty plugs, really aggravating and I am going to swap parts from one carb to the other to see if it moves from the front to rear carb. I have new needles and seats.. BUT to get to your problem ..try adjusting the float with a piece of fuel line attached to the bowl. The level should be 23mm below the top of the bowl and it is really easy to see what float adjustments you make, do to the level. Just take off the fuel line and attach a long piece of fuel line and crank the engine for 15 or so seconds(make sure you take the coil wire off!) to fill the bowl. then match the fuel level with the 23mm mark you made on the bowl.
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I just finished prepping and dyeing/painting my seats and they turned out fantastic. They had been dyed earlier and they did a terrible job. I first cleaned them with Dawn and water with a plastic bristle brush and got most of it off. Then I took lacquer thinner and got the rest off. Make sure you don't leave it on long. Then I finished with a good rinse and waited a week to dry out. Then I sprayed on Bull Dog, it's a coating used for flexable bumpers etc. and left it for 5 or so minutes then took the cans of vinyl paint(dupli color) to the seats. My buddies couldnt believe how nice they turned out.
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Forgot to say that I'll try it on my chaulked up bumper rubber one night this week.
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I never use those silicone products like Armour All they are not good for vinyl and rubber, plus they leave everything to shiny, slippery and greasy. I have used a product called Formula 2 made by PPC it will make your vinyl and rubber look BRAND NEW, and clean and condition it like nothing else I have seen. It's not greasy and it lasts a long time.
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ahh progress, all pored. Also used the POR gas tank sealer and it worked great. -
Here is my shop I built in 1997. Great place to hang out in! -
up on stands! hope not for to long.. -
More POR, man that stuff works good. I know they should be the same color as the car but I like the black underside more -
Boy they look great after a POR job -
in my back yard after I got it running enough to get it in my shop -
I think I found out what it is!! I searched more closely and found a picture of a FairLady Z (have to research that) Now I know why the right hand Datsun Emblem I have, does not line up with the holes. Here is the link to the picture, can't tell the emblem says though. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=455&password=&sort=7&thecat=500
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I just did mine, one came out with a little hammer action the other did not so I had it pressed out. I sacrificed a lug nut to get the one that moved out. If I had to do it again I would have gotton both of them pressed out. much easier!
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Great Thanks for the real scoop. Looks like I got a bit of a 260 in it! ...
